Winter sun

Exactly why we aren't going in for a swim...

As the sun heated up, our next stop was the Yellow Water Wetlands of Kakadu. It was here that we took a boat cruise through the South Alligator River and onto the wetlands. A perfect way to see the many, many crocodiles and birdlife of the floodplains. It sure was amazing to see many different species of birds at the waters edge, mere centimetres from a croc’s mouth. However, crocs are actually lazy and these birds were in no danger.

This croc seemed to follow us

We got a good deal and did this cruise twice- once at sunset and once in the early morn. Each time had an abundance of life, but also heat. The days were reaching over 34 degrees and with the sun dancing off the water, it did not make for a comfortable ride.
With a dip in cool water needed it was off to the Falls region. A short boat ride took us to the base of Twin Falls were we could walk and marvel at the beauty of the water cascading over the towering escarpment. The water was crystal clear and very inviting, however we could not even dip as toe in for fear of those pesky crocs. You could swim here up until 2002, however with 8 crocs trapped last season and 3 to date this season, it is closed to bathers. But it did look so inviting.

Twin Falls


One theory as to why crocs have ventured up to the Twin Falls area is the dreaded cane toad. Cane toads have killed vast numbers of snakes and goannas, eaters of tasty crocodile eggs. With no one to eat the eggs, more crocodile hatchlings are surviving. An increased number of crocs means more territory is needed.
Both the Twin Falls and Jim Jim Falls roads were 4WD only, however unlike some tracks were actually fun.


Stopped to help someone bogged, nearly became so ourselves....

Not too much bouncing, but much sand and twists and turns, and the occasional river crossing. The deepest crossing was 55 cm’s- not enough to do any damage but enough to test the vehicle.

River crossing on the way to Twin Falls

The walk to Jim Jim, rated as difficult, was not as fun. The tall, engulfing escarpment was a majestic sight, however was it worth the walk......... It would be amazing to see these falls in the wet, by helicopter though (the only accessible way in the wet).

Jim Jim Falls









I did not make it for a swim, it just wasn’t worth scrambling over yet another boulder for. No wonder this is one place without crocs. After a hard days walking, I did appreciate our picturesque campsite at Garnamarr. Now that we were away from the wetlands, there were no mozzies, and we were able to enjoy a beverage while watching the distant escarpment change colour in the setting sun.
The Mary River Region was the last of the 7 regions of Kakadu for us to visit. Apart from watching the setting sun from Ubirr Rock, it would also have to be my favourite. After travelling a long and dusty dirt road you arrive at Gunlom, a lush oasis, complete with kiosk. This was rather a funny sight, quite literally in the middle of nowhere you could buy a meat pie, quiche or hamburger. Of course with such a good cook on board, we did not purchase such. After setting up camp, it was off for a swim. Even in the dry, the waterfall is still flowing and with no crocs in residence here, it was nice to be able to swim in the plunge pool at the base of the falls. It is such a pretty spot, so we decided to stay for two nights. A cool swim, no bugs of any description, could it get any better? The dingo puppy playfully bounding near our campsite made it so. The next day we braved the very steep, 500 metre climb to the top of the falls and were rewarded with not only a great view, but also our own private plunge pool.

Top of the Falls, Gunlom. Don't jump Dave....

With July 1 approaching, Territory Day, we headed for Katherine to be part of the celebrations. There are many things you can still do in the Territory- smoke in bars- and buy fireworks! You can only buy them on Territory Day though, but they sell all sorts of explosives that were never legal in NSW. Dave bought the biggest, meanest looking fireworks available and some parachutes, ‘just like when we were kids’. The seller asked if we knew were to set them off, we replied in the negative. Then with a big smile on his face, he said- ‘anywhere you want to!’ There really are no rules up here. Officially they can only be let off between 6 and 11pm on Territory Day, however I suspect we will hear them for the next week............


Dave and our fireworks!

We are staying in the grounds of the Springvale Homestead near Katherine. As walked to the nearby helipad, there were already a crew of fellow campers letting off their crackers. But it was Dave’s ‘biggie’ that caught everyone’s attention. It was certainly the loudest I have ever heard and pretty dam spectacular too.