Mary River National Park (proposed) is butt up against Kakadu, but not as frequented. While the landscapes may not be as stunning, the wildlife is teeming. It was here, at Shady Camp that we saw our first crocodile in the wild. A huge 6 metre beast slunk past us, giving us a chill. We were safe behind a viewing platform, but his menacing eyes said it all. However, it was the smaller (yet still big) specimen on the river bank that had us entranced. He sat a mere few meters away from us, his mouth open wide in an aggressive pose (they also do this to keep their brains cool).
Mr Croc, amazing to see in the wild though
The dry season is a time for cool fire burn offs and a plume of smoke is a constant sight. Perhaps this grey haze confuses the wallaby’s, as we had 4 jump out in front of us during the middle of the day. We didn’t hit any- no wallaby stew for dinner.
As we entered Kakadu, it was only fitting that a Jabiru (Australia’s only stork) was on hand to greet us. This tall, orange legged bird did seem rather out of place beside the road, but the wetlands are never far away. During our 10 months of travels to date, we have enjoyed many National Parks, each with their own delights, however Kakadu is stunning. Broken up into 7 regions, our first foray was in the East Alligator region, in the shadow of the Arnhem Land escarpment. Even though we are in the dry the floodplains are still wet in parts creating a haven for birdlife. It is rather relaxing to watch the many species forage for food amongst the waterlilies. But it is not safe to enter the water anywhere in Kakadu. The saltwater crocodiles rule the roost here. With a life span reaching into hundreds of years, these remnants from the dinosaur age become sexually active at age 30. Having been hunted to near extinction until 1971, croc numbers have recovered dramatically with many males now sexually active and consequently very aggressive. With no fear of humans many rock holes are now closed to swimming.
Rock Art, Ubirr
Ubirr, one of the main rock art sites is also in this region, within the stone country perched above the floodplains. The top end of Australia is known amongst Australian Aborigines as ‘rich man’s land’. Food and water is plentiful, with no need to hunt for up to 8 hours a day, as many others have had to do. With more spare time comes more elaborate rock art and cultural activities. Layer upon layer of rock art tell teaching stories, but we both liked the ‘menu board’ in ‘Grandma’s kitchen’ the best. X-ray art is the style of painting in this region and fine examples of several fish species, turtle, goanna and other dinner delicacies adorned the cave wall menu.
The menu board, Ubirr
But, the best of Ubirr is presented when you reach the top of Ubirr Rock. The 360 degree view over the Nabab floodplain across to Arnhem Land is stunning. Rich green lands reach out to the escarpment and are filled with life. Watching the sun go down ends a rewarding day. It is no wonder this view is used in the current NT campaign (which you have probably seen on TV).
Wish you could see all of the view with me, Ubirr Rock
However one of our best days yet was to be followed by one of our worst nights yet. Kakadu is home to over 10,000 insect species and I think a representative from each was sent to infiltrate our camper. We were camped at Merl, within Kakadu National Park, and apparently known for its bugs. We did finally manage to bug proof ourselves for the night, however the constant buzz of mosquitoes hovering outside was ever present, broken only by the howl of a dingo. Dave braved venturing outside and was stunned by the sight of mozzies covering the entire camper- spaced about 5cm apart.
Art class, Merl Campground
Still ‘Merl’ was not all bad and the following day we were treated to a traditional painting lesson with a couple of artists from Arnhem Land. The art class is not publicised as too many people have turned up in the past, so it was only the few of us who had braved the mozzie mayhem. I used a traditional brush made from a bull rush, but did not have the 20 years experience of ‘Joe’.
Joe and Leisa with paintings (Leisa needs more practice)
The caravan park in Jabiru is resort class, so we cut short our stay at Merl and I am happy again enjoying the pool and bug free nights. From here we ventured to Nanguluwur and Nourlangie- home of the best rock art in Kakadu. Contact art- when the aborigines first met white man- is present here and includes a ship and many lace gloves, worn by English ladies of the time.
Contact Art- ship- Nanguluwur
However, the days here are hot, a dry 34 degrees. The weather is very dehydrating and energy zapping. After days of exploring in this heat, we are enjoying a rare ‘rest’ day to recover and recharge to explore more of this Kakadu.
Nabulwinjbulwinj man (he committed incest) at Noourlangie
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