Aaaaahhhhhh

Ahh Kununurra- there is something comforting about this place, a familiarity that makes you feel at home. Everyone who stops here ends up extending their duration to simply chill and enjoy the relaxing atmosphere. We ended up extending for 3 days, but perhaps that was to recover from all the frivolity with our neighbours! Our new friends Margaret, Tony, Annette and Brian were very hospitable and had many a travelling war story to keep us entertained long past our usual bedtime.
But, it was not all socialising into the wee hours, we also enjoyed the local Kimberley area. Marlgu Billabong in the Parry Creek area was even more stunning than the wetlands of Kakadu.

Parrys Lagoon

With a backdrop of the Cockburn Mountain ranges, literally thousands of ducks nestled on the banks and many varied species of birds frolicked in the water. It is no wonder then that the Parry Floodplains have been listed as a wetland of international importance under the Ramsar Convention. It was rather amusing then, to be able to drive through these floodplains (it is the dry season remember)- we traversed a path through the tall grass until finally rejoining the highway to Wyndham.
Wyndham. After the sanctity of Kununurra, this place had an air of decay and desolation. Established in the late 1800’s to service the goldfields, the money and life of the town have long since departed. Past the port area, heading to the literal end of the road, the land appears to be used as an industrial dump. Barrels and other large discarded metal items line the Cambridge Gulf that opens to the Timor Sea. Once the site of a thriving abattoir, perhaps this is left over rubbish, or is it from when the town was taken over by the army during WWII?


Part of 5 Rivers view, Wyndham

However, a drive through town, with its unkempt houses, takes you 350 metres above sea level to one of the best views from a lookout we have seen to date. From the top of the Bastion you can see the meeting of 5 rivers- the Forrest, Pentecost, Durack, King and Ord, as they enter the Cambridge Gulf. The 360 degree view stretches for miles, making you feel you are truly on top of the world.
Back down at sea level, we viewed the last of the sights of Wyndham. The Dreamtime Statues are a monument to the indigenous heritage of the region and are a little better looked after than the local houses.

Aboriginal statues, Wyndham

However, it is the Big Croc’ that seems to be most loved, having recently been given a fresh coat of paint.

Big Croc, Wyndham

After a full day sightseeing, we were looking forward to a swim at the Grotto. A natural amphitheatre, we walked the 140 steps down only to discover that the water, whilst clear underneath was covered in a layer of algae. Back up the steps it was and home to meet up with our neighbours.
Lake Kununurra was certainly filled with fresh, clean water and at 3 times the size of Sydney Harbour is huge. We enjoyed a relaxing drive out to dam, taking in the rugged landscape, until eventually driving atop the dam wall.

Dam Wall, Ord River

The Durack Homestead, relocated when the dam was being filled, is now a museum dedicated to this famous pioneering family. The remoteness of this countryside was brought home as we were about to enter the homestead however. Told to move back, we witnessed a King Brown snake being killed with a shovel, before we could enter.

Killing the brown snake...

Our home in Kununurra was on the doorstep of the Mirima National Park. A track from our back door (we only have a back door), led us to a small park with sandstone ranges, cliffs and a hidden valley. The 350 million year old sandstone, has some amazing colour changes due to sunlight variances and was a perfect backdrop for a tipple (mmmmm........bit of an alcohol theme here in Kununurra). There is certainly more than alcohol though..... nowhere else in the world can you find a pink diamond than in the Kimberley’s. With no mining licence Dave took me to a couple of jewellers, however with a price tag of $48,000 for the tiniest pin prick of a pink diamond, I was resigned to the fact that I would not be getting a new ring........... but they are soooooooo pretty (and rare).
Leaving Kununurra behind, we free camped near the entrance to El Questro, a private nature park. We are glad we did not plan to camp at El Questro and not for the fact that the road in, part of the Gibb River Road, was too rough to take our home. El Questro has got to be the most expensive nature park in Australia. With countryside and natural attractions no different to what we have and will see, we decided not to pay. Coupled with the fact that one of the gorges was closed for a private function and the hot springs are only accessible to tour groups after midday, it really wasn’t worth it. Unless you are the likes of Rove and his new Missus (they honeymooned here for 3 days), and can afford the $3,500 per night of the homestead, I wouldn’t bother with this park. However, we did get to venture along part of the infamous Gibb River Road and did a 4WD track that took us past gorges, rock art and lots of cows.

Rock Art, El Questro

Off it was to Purnululu National Park, home of the Bungle Bungles. Purnululu National Park would have to be one of our highlights to date. We had not heard of this park before, only of the Bungle Bungles. However, they are only part of the attractions here. The 53 kilometre 4WD road into the park was again not accessible for our home, so we left it at the free camp (with many others) near the park entrance. Having packed our tent, lounge cushions (to make a comfy mattress) and supplies, we set off for our ‘weekend away’. Heading to the north of the park, our first walk was to Echidna Chasm.

Echidna Chasm

WOW- it is as if a giant has prised apart the 200 metre tall sandstone rock creating a long narrow split, which allows you to walk deep inside. There is nothing like standing ‘inside’ a rock, viewing the striking colour variations as the angle of the sun above changes. At various stages the rock was fluoro orange! Our next adventure saw us walking up a creek bed and then climbing in, around and under fallen blocks from the cliff face to a hidden amphitheatre. With abundant Livitona palms lining the gorge walls, it really was a pretty view.

Bungle Bungles

With the day nearly at a close, we headed to the south of the park to set up camp. Sipping a hot chocolate we sat and gazed at the vibrant stars, before retiring to our very cosy tent. Dave loved it as I had no choice but to snuggle him. We awoke to the dawn chorus, an amazing sound of about 20 different birds, but I just wish they didn’t have to start so early.

Our camp, Purnululu NP

With the sun shining again (we have now had 3 months with no rain), it was off to see the striped sandstone beehives- aka- the Bungle Bungles. These rock formations rise majestically from the Spinifex covered sand and are really a sight to behold. They are actually very tall, dwarfing us as we weaved our way to Cathedral Gorge. Another amphitheatre, this gorge is almost 360 degrees of vertical sandstone walls.
We really enjoyed our ‘weekend away’. Purnululu has many delights and you can’t help but soak up her beauty.

Mini Palms Walk- no fatties can enter.....


This part of Australia sure is remote, more so than the ‘busy’ Stuart Highway of the red centre. With long distances between anything, there is a need to stop and stretch the legs and probably why we saw a couple playing tennis at a roadside stop!
Fitzroy Crossing was an oasis in this dry Kimberley country. The town had been on the news for the past couple of weeks as the local shopping centre was burnt down, destroying the supermarket, post office, video store and take-away shop. We have still been able to buy supplies though- the local recreation hall has been set up as a make shift supermarket and the library is now the post office.