Hidden Treasures

The power of music can make your heart soar or leave you crying. It truly can set the mood. As we crept further south and left the Celtic Country behind, the ambient sounds that sung from our stereo had a definite haunting ‘Braveheart’ quality to them. Our eyes were presented with countryside that would not be out of place in Scotland, as our ears also in tune with said country. Mist encrusted hills tumbling over themselves to a patchwork of vibrant green paddocks defied the grey sky above. We were now leaving Glen Innes, and the ‘Standing Stones’-

'Stonehenge' Glen Innes

similar to Stonehenge in the mother country. It is easy to see why so many Celts settled here, not only for the familiar countryside, but also the cool climate.
Living in Sydney, we were constantly reminded of water restrictions and drought. Having now travelled inland, whilst we know water is a constant struggle, there is certainly no visual evidence of drought- and the plentiful rain has also given paid to such! Rain certainly brings life. Vibrant green shoots bursting from both the ground and trees above....... and bugs.
Rainforests thrive on rain and ‘come alive’ after heavy falls.

Can you see the top of Dave's head (above rocks), Washpool National Park

Flies are my new found friends- you simply shoo them away, or swat them with one easy blow and voila- gone, not like the creepy crawlies I have encountered. Washpool National Park, a rather ‘unknown’ rainforest was to be our walking destination, as the rains eased. Rangers were out in force ‘mopping’ up after the storms- widening tracks, clearing fallen trees and reinforcing landslides. The track mostly reduced to a thick pile of fresh leaf litter, spongy on the feet, but as hard to walk on as soft sand. After swatting various unknown bugs and spiders out of the way, we sat on a huge granite boulder to enjoy lunch. It was then we noticed the ticks walking up our legs- lucky we were wearing long pants. After ‘refuelling’ we continued our Indiana Jones style journey through the rainforest. We were soon stopped again- this time by a Carpet Python, relaxing on the edge of the track.

Snake on our walk, Washpool National Park

He did not slither away as most do upon hearing humans. Perhaps he was deaf. Figuring his eyesight still worked, we threw sticks, stones and then rocks near him. Still he would not move. I also would not move until he did. Lucky I had plenty of water- this could be a long standoff. Eventually he slinked away, still not venturing far from the track. As a former District Long Jumper (no need to mention it was back in Primary School), I prepared for my run up and then sailed high and long in the air to escape my captor. Safe at last however, the track deteriorated even further after ‘the encounter’ and I was glad to finish that walk! I then proceeded to drive us home- some 80 odd kms- only managing to find the wrong gear twice (I am getting better at driving the beast). No comments please Dave.... just enjoy playing passenger, and watch the passing fields covered in daises, with the odd jersey cow to break up the sea of white.
The New England Highway holds many surprises for the inland traveller. Apsley

Tia Falls

Falls, crashing into a massive gorge below, Tia Falls cascading into uncharted territory. As we began our descent down the mountain, leaving Walcha behind, we arrived in Ellensborough- our latest free camping destination. We were now over the range and once again closer to the coast. Our free camping was successful, but fortunate we were not a day later. The annual bikie convention was on for the next two days- evidenced as we moved on- bikes, leather, beards and bellies converging on the roads.
Civilisation awaited us. That is my Uncle Terry and Aunty Sue’s farm at Hillville- near Taree. Take a long dirt road to the very end and the farm awaits you, hidden in a pretty valley, with a creek running by.

Cows surrounding our camper, Uncle Terry & Aunty Sue's farm

The farm is nestled in an old volcanic crater- hence surrounded by hills.... isolated from the outside world....... and any phone or TV reception, but catching up on stories meant we did not miss either. They are stocked with both cattle and horses. Cows are funny beasts, or maybe just ‘dumb’. I was in peals of laughter as Pied Piper Dave had the cows follow him on his walk over to move our camper. Once behind the wheel, they then trapped his path. No amount of shouting or tooting would move them- he eventually had to get out and physically push them aside. Lucky he hadn’t seen the bull then...
Other friends also live on the other side of the outskirts of Taree, and was our next squatting site. Their home is also on a very pretty block, complete with a lily filled dam. It was truly great to see them and catch up on the ‘gossip’, however I was not a fan of their dogs. Or rather the dogs were not fond of me. Jessie, took a big dislike to me and growled whenever I went near. She was soon muzzled, but that still did not stop her attempting to take a nip. By the end of our stay I would not move unless escorted by Emily and Paul - much to everyones amusement. However, after being treated to their culinary delights, we were also taken sightseeing and beach driving – I thoroughly recommended a stay at their joint.
For those that like to track our path- we are now in Hallidays Point- topping up the tans that have been fading. Tomorrow beckons a day at the beach, but for now it is off to prepare dinner.

QLD... perfect the next...

I have said before to be careful what you wish for. I wished for rain. After the dry heat, dust and onset of flies of Central QLD, I craved her coolness and cleansing qualities. The closer we got to the coast, the closer we got to her fury. As we approached Toowoomba, it was as if we were back on the Mt Buller Ski fields- a complete white out in the early afternoon. It felt so strange to experience this ‘wet stuff’ from above and I found myself reaching for a jumper, it was only 14 degrees here! A far cry from the 36, only days before.
As the black sky descended it was no use going sightseeing. Armed with a local wine guide, advising who was open, we set off for the Governor’s Choice winery (Toowoomba has many local wineries- mostly reds). Alas, our guide was incorrect- our selection was only open on weekends. Dam, we had driven all this way in the rain. As we conceded and walked back to our ute, the ‘rather dishy’ owner was pulling up on his 1972 Massey Ferguson (tractor). We showed him our guide, and with the obvious look of disappointment on our faces, he decided to open up- just for us!
The vineyard grounds were spectacular, rolling green lawns, framed by cottage flowers, creating a runway to the vines. As the mist danced against the mountains, we were poured our first taste (aka half a glass). By the third taste I was feeling warm and cosy and we shared camping stories with our host. By now he was joining us in the tasting and decided we should finish off the bottle of port. Having sampled all his wares, we selected our purchases, and as we expressed our thanks were handed a free bottle of wine. He was supposed to be doing the paperwork- and wished to thank us for the excuse to get out of it.
We had actually planned a visit to a winery to arm ourselves with gifts for our Gold Coast hosts the next evening- Bern and Gary. I used to work with Bern at News Limited, and we had a laugh about our lives only a short time ago. Dave and I now ‘on the road’, Bern and Gary now settled on the Gold Coast, only if arriving a mere 3 weeks prior. The new domestic life is certainly agreeing with both of them- a relaxed and welcoming feel greeted us as soon as we arrived (lucky cause I brought all my washing with me.......). Their home has been made complete with a couple of boxers from the pound. They really have turned into the Griswalds. Never a dull moment. Gary announced plans to build a dog kennel. Dave was consulted, although overhearing the plans, I think the dogs may be better building their own....
As you no doubt have heard on the news, Brisbane and the Gold Coast have been experiencing ‘a little bit of wind and rain’. That night down it came, the noise deafening. This would have not been so bad, and perhaps we would have got a little bit of sleep, if it hadn’t had been for Storm (the boxer) and her kennel cough. I really did feel sorry for her, but every half hour, she coughed up her lungs, right outside our bedroom window.
Oh well, at least the 6 inches in two hours filled the pool to the brim. Gary ‘Griswald’ decided to drain the overflow, but uh um, drained too much. In went the hose to fill it back up............ they certainly are relaxed.
All good fun was had though and we bade our hosts goodbye. After a quick stretch of the legs on Broadbeach and a splash in the cool ocean, we set the new GPS for Lamington National Park. Driving through Mt Tambourine, we viewed the devastation from the Sunday night storm. Swollen creeks, fallen trees, landslides and damaged dwellings. The road further on, had only just been reopened. I was wishing it was still closed, having had not much sleep, I was not in the best state for a ride on the ‘ghost train’- well that is what it felt like to me- narrow winding roads, blind corners, one lane passes and recent evidence of landslides. The fun park

Tree Tops Walk, O'Reilys (scary!)

experience continued with the Tree Tops walk. I was a little scared on the rickety, uneven slats 20 metres above the ground. The signs asking for donations to narrow the gaps of the slats, didn’t help in easing my nerves, especially as they started half way along.
Monument to plane crash, O'Reilys

Back on terra firma, we went for an amble in the rainforest and I began to appreciate the beauty of this National Park and her wildlife. King Parrots,

Regent Bower Bird


Satin Bower Bird

Regent and Satin Bower Birds, Rosellas (and those dam Bush Turkeys) landing on anyone holding some seed. All too soon, we were back in the car and headed for Boonah. Ignoring the storm damage, the hinterland region was very pleasant on the eye- and were relatives of Dave’s grandfathers era had resided.

Great Uncle Stubbin, War memorial, Boonah

They have been immortalised at the War Memorial in the Boonah Park, and with photos taken, we made our way back home to Toowoomba.
You are reading this blog, so it is obvious we arrived safe. However, as we ascended up the mountain, so did the next storm. All vehicles, including us, were travelling at 10km per hour, as the rain, hail and winds pelted us from all directions. Arriving ‘home’ the storm cleared, allowing us to prepare for the next one.
A warm sunny day greeted us the following morn and we made our way to Stanthorpe, but not before a sojourn to the Toowoomba Japanese Gardens. We will certainly spend more time in future in this beautiful garden city.

Japanense Gardens, Toowomba

We are settling here in Stanthrpe for a few days of R&R. Lavender Gardens, local crafts, National Parks and many wineries are the attractions in this ‘Granite Belt’ region, and I must now sign off- Dave has selected a winery that specialises in liquors. Perfect for after dinner.

Fair Dinkum

Roma certainly partied well into the night, after the ‘Roma Cup’. Me- I was tucked up in bed by 9pm. The following morn as I proceeded to shower I was amused by the sights- girls with obvious hangovers and some arriving ‘home’ still in their cup finery at 8am. I think a fair few ‘got lucky’, perhaps we will see a population increase in 9 months time.........
Dave and I giggled at the sights around us as we packed up and headed for Chinchilla. The road out of Roma was a steady stream of utes, with cops at the ready to breath test ‘the morning after’.
As with many a small town, tourism brings dollars. There are usually free camping sites, some with basic amenities. Here at Chinchilla, down by the weir, the free camping comes complete with a toilet block and power- such luxury! We were only to stop one night, but our ‘free camp’ is so tranquil and the outlook so ‘pretty’ we have decided to stay for two. We are positioned on a grassy bank, which is dotted with blue gums.

View across the weir, Chinchilla

The water has a slow, smooth rhythm as it gently laps at a little grass island, which is home to many variety of birds. We are not alone at our campsite, our neighbours having checked us out to ensure we are trustworthy or in need of anything. By law you can camp here for 2 nights. Pete- ‘our one legged neighbour’ has been here for a few weeks.

Pete the bushie, oven he made me in foreground

This is OK with the local council though, as he is here for some R&R after heart surgery. A real ‘bushie’ he did not want to stay in town. Pete has also taken a shine to me, and has taken it upon himself to make ‘the Mrs’ into a ‘real little bushie’.
As we mostly cook outside, Pete decided to make me a firewood ‘cooker’ from an old LPG bottle. It actually is an ingenious idea, and can be used with a camp oven, grill rack, wok, frypan or as a heater. After cutting, welding and much chinwag between all the ‘blokes’ camping here, my cooker was ready. I was summoned to see if it met with my approval. I made all the right ohhh and ahhhhs and proceeded to make a celebratory cup of tea.
I think ‘our weir’, is the best attraction of Chinchilla. We did explore the area and embarked on the Barakula Forest Drive. This ‘tourist drive’ is basically a poor road in the scrub. Full stop.


Deep into the forest we came across a local, who had been collecting honey (boy can country folk talk). I don’t think many tourists, ‘do’ this drive and he stopped us to see if we were OK. We showed him our tourist drive brochure, but he said ‘what a joke’- nothing to really see. Phew- glad it wasn’t just us who thought it was lame. Even the local wildlife seemed to want

Cows wanting to escape the boredom of Barakula Forest Drive

to leave. A young kangaroo tried to commit suicide by jumping into our car- luckily no real damage done to the car or kanga- he may have a headache though. As we then approached a cattle grid, we were greeted with a herd lined up, seeming to wish they had the gall to step over and escape.
Leaving the forest behind, we drove over a grid at the dingo fence. This fence also has a sonic deterrent, which with the windows down you can very easily hear.
Tomorrow we leave our oasis (complete with green frog in the ladies) and head for Toowoomba- a big town. Should be no frogs in the loos there!

Be careful what you wish for

Having craved a long walk in a National Park for some time now, my lust was certainly extinguished at Carnarvon Gorge. Setting out at 8.30am, we decided to walk to Big Bend- the furthest point in the Gorge, have lunch and then on our way back ‘do’ as many of the off shoots as we could, to experience the natural phenomenon and aboriginal rock art. The day was hot, but we were occasionally under the dense trees and protected from the harsh rays. They say it is hard to tell the time by the sun in a gorge, perhaps this is why we walked until 5pm, with only the lunch break as a rest stop. A full days work!
With only one must see left to visit, as if on auto pilot we took the side track. As the incline rose and numerous steps appeared before me, my legs ached and I wished the pack on my back was not so heavy. We were certainly getting a workout. Having viewed the ‘Moss Garden’ it was homeward bound- only 4kms to go. Not bad- we had already done just over 26kms.
During the course of the day we crossed Carnarvon Creek 44 times, via stepping stones. Counting down the crossings, I was glad to reach number 2- the second last. My body was becoming fatigued, as we were now exposed to the harsh sun in the creek bed, and I needed concentration so as to not fall in! The last 500m were the hardest, all I could manage was to focus on putting one foot in front of the other. The track as we neared the carpark was littered with kangaroos and wallaby’s. Perhaps they could sense that I would not have had the energy to do any harm- some hardly moving out of my way, almost making me step over a tail or two.
The car was a very welcomed sight. Back at camp, we both showered and then lay down to put our swollen legs up. We had plans of making a Panang Curry for dinner earlier in the day, but all our energy could muster was a leftover sausage in a bread roll. As weary as I was the throbbing of my legs and feet meant sleep eluded me for a while.
Enough of my whinging! What about the Gorge- why is it such a tourist destination of Central Queensland you ask. Walking into the Gorge is akin to walking into the set of Jurassic Park.

Deep in Carnarvon Gorge

Engulfed on both sides by the sandstone ridge, the valley (or ancient creek bed) contains all the tall native trees we are accustomed too, as well as an abundance of tropical palm trees. Once covering most of Queensland, they died out as the climate changed. The gorge, with its constant water supply means it is the only place in Central Queensland to still house these relics from the time of dinosaurs. The aboriginals took shelter here for short periods over 3500 years ago. Long gone, the only hint of their existence are rock stencils, paintings and carvings in the soft sandstone. Signs at the various viewing sights explain what the symbols are and how they were made (all an educated guess though, as no real links to the original inhabitants remain). What is known for sure is the tribes in this area carved hundreds of female ‘vulva’s’ in the various caves. I had to stifle a laugh at the ‘Cathedral Cave’, when a European visitor asked Dave ‘what is a vulva?’ Thankfully he hadn’t asked me..........
Awaking the following morning, we were both refreshed and glad with 4 days here, we could relax! After a leisurely morning, we set off for the ‘Rock Pool’- the only place you can swim in this protected gorge.

My 'beach', swimhole Carnarvon Gorge

As it is still the dry season, the creek is at its lowest, meaning there was an ample sandy beach to set our towels. What a great way to recover from the ‘stroll’ the day before- cool water, a sandy beach dotted with palm trees and all to ourselves. I nestled down with my ‘Jackie Collins’ and was joined by a magpie, who seemed fascinated to watch me. That evening we met Fred- the local aboriginal who works for the QLD National Park & Wildlife Service. Around the campfire he regaled us with stories from the ‘uncivilised time’ as well as his past. It is amazing to think that it was only in 1976 that aboriginals gained their ‘freedom’ to be treated as a white man in QLD. Fred was walking to the ‘Art Gallery’ (one of the caves off the main Gorge track) the following day and invited us to join him. He truly enjoyed keeping his culture alive by teaching us about the bush tucker and hidden stories of the rock art.
So off again up the Gorge- only this time it was a mere 10km round trip. We ate berries, grass roots and native hibiscus flowers on the way up, as well as quenching our thirst from a natural spring. Fred explained all, and how ‘his people’ had survived in such a harsh environ. Once we reached the ‘Art Gallery’ he explained what each symbol meant, and really made this ‘graffiti’ come alive for Dave and I. Fred became rather fond of Dave and I, and he certainly made the Gorge a magical experience for us.


Fred, who took us on a 10km walk in the gorge

However, all good things come to an end, and after 4 days in total isolation with no phones, internet or shops (ahhhh bliss), we have arrived in Roma. Unbeknown to us the ‘Roma Cup’ is on this weekend- bigger than the Melbourne Cup up here- lads and laddies from far (and I mean far) have descended on this outback town. We drove past the racecourse and ogled all in their finery. It is going to be like one big B&S ball tonight in town. I have already been checked out by 3 guys in a ute. We restocked supplies, but both Woolies and the bottle shop have sold out of a few items- this is the biggest weekend of the year up here........ we are’s goin’ to have us some fun..... yeee haaaa.

Outback Bound

We are officially in the Outback, but as I sit and watch the most amazing sunset over Lake Maraboon (we are south west of Emerald), with a cool breeze blowing off her waters, I know the real outback is yet to be discovered by us. The nights have been cool, but the days are nearing the mid 30’s- it is after 7pm and I and I am still in my bikini and sarong!
The road out here (after we got down that steep mountain... phew I can breathe a sigh of relief) is very straight and flat.

View down the valley from Eungella

It is easy to see why there are so many road accidents, the vast distance covered by truckies and travellers alike. Every few kilometres a white cross marking the sight of a fatal encounter. No crosses for the wildlife that also dot the roadside though. You can smell the ‘road kill’ long before you reach the carcass. We have learnt to whip out the fluffy dice shaped car freshener (thanks Nat), and hold it near our noses!
Arriving at our campsite late afternoon, we were given the ‘presidential suite’ campsite (as dubbed by fellow campers). We don’t know why we were so lucky to get the best spot (based on the vista from our camper), but I think it had something to do with the gay host taking a shine to Dave...... I have seen paintings were the blue water meets a deep red sky, fading out to a light orange, yellow and green, then blue with the silhouette of trees framing the picture and thought it not real. I am now seeing it.

The beauty of the sunset at Lake Maraboon

The beauty of this area is also found underground, with sapphires and zircons having international acclaim. Dave and I did venture to both Sapphire and Rubyvale, but alas it appears all the most appealing gems and designs are sold/ exported elsewhere. Oh well, credit card remained happy.Dave did get a ‘gem of a laugh’ though- having visited the ‘ladies’, I left rather quickly after flushing....... you would to, if you saw some creature clinging to the inside of the bowl trying with all its might to remain above the whirlpool below. It seems I had ‘wee weed’ on a frog.

Frog, having being removed from my toilet

I shall now be checking the outback toilets!

With still no fish finding their way onto our dinner plate, Dave decided to purchase a cray pot to put into the dam (the dam is famous for the Redclaw yabbies). We ventured out to check our pot, but as it was only a few hours after been thrown in, all we caught so far was a small fish and undersized yabbie (ha.... at least Dave can now claim that he has indeed caught a fish). We are looking forward to the morn to check our pot. Hopefully it is yabbie for dinner tomorrow night! Tonight it is falafels- I tell you this only because Dave has just got back from the camp kitchen cooking them. The ‘old bloke’ cooking his meat over there had never heard of them. Dave offered a taste, bad move- his new friend hasn’t really ever had spicy food, and 15 minutes later his mouth is still burning (opps...........)

Picture of worlds largest painting on a easel in Emerald - Van Gough..

Days in the sun

We stayed a couple of nights in Mackay. Mining boom, not much accommodation (caravan site or other) and what there is, well........... but it was a good place to get my ‘kitsch’ coasters to go with my Big Banana placemats. We did enjoy the Cape Hillsborough National Park, although why is it that walks in North Queensland National Parks are only 800m or less?

Eimo Hotel, Mackay

We did enjoy a drink at the Eimeo Beach Hotel though and the view from the pub was magnificent.


View from Eimo Hotel








Think we were both glad to arrive in Airlie Beach. Checked into the Adventure Whitsunday Resort posh name, but it is a caravan park....... or so it would seem.

Pool at Airlie Beach Caravan Park

We set up our camper and explored our digs, outdoor cinema (Dave took me on date to see Bee Movie), tennis, mini golf, resort pool complete with slides- yes we are going to enjoy our ‘holiday’ here!
Tuesday heralded the Melbourne Cup. I thought back to the previous year and others spent out at Randwick. Never fear, it really is the race that stops the nation as Airlie was in full swing for the ‘big race’. We caught the bus downtown and browsed the shops enroute to the pub. I even put on heels and make up for the occasion (how foreign now). I tried on a dress in one of the shops, and thought why not- it is Melbourne Cup. The assistant cut off the tag, and I was all set for my champers. We bought tickets in the sweep, and got all the favourites, but they didn’t do any good...... Oh well, home we went to tackle the slides after a couple of sherbs!
The next morn we awoke to get ready for our 3 island tour of the Whitsundays. Hook Island, where we went down the 1969 underwater observatory (the windows haven’t been cleaned since then) and watched fish of all descriptions pool around the jetty as they were fed.

Fish feeding, Great Barrier Reef

I can’t help but think that white bread rolls are not so good as a fish diet though. Then we boarded the ‘semi-sub’ to view the coral. Just as our captain was explaining the slow growth of these amazing animals, the sub scraped across some brain coral- never fear in a few hundred years it will be repaired. Then it was off for a snorkel- what I had been waiting for. I could hear Nemo calling me. Dave and I suited up (stinger season is upon us), and we were first out to the reef. Becoming part of the underwater world, allows you to block out all noises from above and fully take in the beauty. As I marvelled at the colourful soft and hard coral, I became aware that I was suddenly surrounded by fish large and small. Every direction I looked were fish, pretty as some where, it was a tad disconcerting. Mmm our Captain had been throwing bread near me to encourage them. I swam over to Dave, who was also underwater, and thought it would be fun to get mask to mask, alas a Parrot Fish thought that sort of behaviour was not acceptable. As I tried to shue him away, he spiked my finger! Oh well my ‘injury’ was nothing compared to Daves. He was hot on the tail of a fish, but as it dived under a ledge Dave would just not fit, and slam, his head bumping into some coral. A few grazes, but no infection.
Whitehaven Beach, Whitsundays

After our underwater adventures, we then sailed to Whitehaven Beach. The pure white silica sand is finer than talcum powder and coupled with crystal clear waters, makes for an idyllic spot. The wildlife also agree- from the shore we could easily see stingrays and fish swimming nearby. However with the threat of the jellyfish, we remained in our stinger suits as we swam. Then it was onto Daydream Island Resort. The Whitsundays certainly are beautiful, however for me I would prefer Fiji or Asia for a tropical resort holiday. Still what else do you do at Daydream- enjoy a Mango Daiquiri in the pool- ahhhhhh.
After an exhausting day, we looked forward to a sleep in. Just needed that BB gun again. A family of Bush Stone Curlews (gee that bird book comes in handy for identifying the ones I want to shoot), were camped nearby. Their call sounds like someone is trying to strangle them, not a pleasant twitter at all. They are native to the entire east coast, however are near extinction down south...... I wonder why............ Still it was funny to see Dave as he walked back from the Ablution Block and was scared by Mum defending her chicks (see photo)-

Female Bush Stone Curlew, defending her chicks

her feathers spread and making a hissing sound.
We are glad to be spending summer ‘down south’ it has been 35 degrees during the day, with an overnight of 25 for the past couple of days and very humid. However, relief was in sight- yesterday we arrived at Eungella National Park. It is much cooler here- up on the mountain. We are quite literally staying on the top of the mountain. After driving through the plain below, we took the 5km ascent. Five km may not sound like much, but it is 800m up a VERY steep and windy road. My head was soon in the clouds, but my heart was in my mouth until we finally made it to the top. But oh, what a view of the valley below!

View from Eungella down the valley below

We took off for a walk in the rainforest (there are long walks up here too) and enjoyed the coolness. Eungella is famous for platypus spotting. However, we remained sceptical. I have been told where platypus can be seen before, but only ever managed a fleeting glimpse. Just as we were discussing such, we saw one in the water, he soon dived, but it was still an amazing sight. There was more to come though and we both marvelled at how many platypus we saw and how long they frolicked within clear view, staying on the surface for extended lengths. Certainly worth the ‘climb’ up the mountain.
Platypus at Eungella

That evening Dave bought a friend to bed, waking my up at 4.30am to remove the tick from his thigh. We dozed off again only to be woken by the resident rooster. I quite enjoy the sound of his call though and snuggled in bed as the sun rose from the valley below.

Good Vibes

As we travel around this big ol’ country, I have been curious as to whether I would feel that ‘home vibe’, i.e that unexplainable, yet content feeling that I could live there. Rockhampton exuded that vibe for both Dave and I- not that we are looking to move or settle down!
The city is quite beautiful, and we took an afternoon to picnic in the Botanic Gardens. The gardens are quite large and include a serene Japanese Garden, a lush fernery, which was Dave’s favourite, amongst the traditional.

Fernery, Rockhampton Botanic Gardens

The Tropical Fruit section yielded many exotic varieties, with many fruiting. The attendant hadn’t had a chance to pick any fruit for a few days (we got chatting), so never fear we availed ourselves of some limes- both Spanish and Tahitian! We discovered the gardens have a ‘free’ zoo attached, with many native species and a couple of extras thrown in like the chimps- just watch they don’t spit on you!

Koalas, Rockhampton Botanic Gardens

We actually stayed about 20kms out of ‘Rocky’ at Capricorn Caves- right in the bush.

Capricorn Caves

If you have been following my blog, you may remember that bush turkeys have been following me. Our campsite must have been near a mating couple. A rather bold male made a bee line for me, I got up to move out of his way, but he diverted towards me. At first I briskly walked in the opposite direction, but with each step I took the turkey got closer. I was soon in a sprint, the turkey also full pelt, feathers flapping and beak locked firmly in position for my butt. I yelled for Dave, but he just laughed as I sailed by. Through tears of laughter he advised me to stand firm, stamp my feet and yell at the turkey. Ha, now who had the power. I was like a woman possessed, as I chased the turkey, screaming like a banshee. He didn’t bother me again.... We did do a tour of the caves, and it was great to learn the history of the area, but having visited many a limestone cave, I would not recommend these ones as a ‘must see’. However, these caves and Mt Etna have been the site of a long battle to save such. They are home to 5 species of bat, including the rare ghost bat, and a variety of fern that can now only be found here- no where else in Australia does this particular variety grow. The now Mt Etna National Park is certainly important if we want to save some of our precious flora and fauna.
After a couple of nights, we were ready for our first night of ‘free camping’- i.e not in a caravan park. We picked Carmila Beach, which came recommended. The spot is beautiful- right on the beach with much natural bush to ensure that you are not in view of other ‘squatters’.

Free camp, Carmila Beach

With the sun beating down, it was a welcome relief to feel the cool sea breeze, but alas we could not enter the water (or sunbake for that matter). We are in north QLD- croc territory. A grumpy croc was in residence near the boat ramp. Far enough away from our campsite, but not by water........ but, if Mr Grumps had not been around the ocean was still off limits- Box Jelly Fish. The sign didn’t make me feel too secure- ‘Give mouth to mouth, don’t give up- most victims do recover’. ‘Most’, but not all.

DANGER- Stingers. Can cause death!

The beachfront was pretty deserted down our end- just us and a couple of nudists. We haven’t ventured that far yet, but I guess it saves on the washing. Dave through in a line again, but still no fish for dinner, perhaps he was distracted........
I must admit I really enjoyed the free camping! (Some of you will be shocked). The serenity, the isolation, the peace and quiet! The sky at night was amazing, all the more so as a distant bushfire exuded a red glow. I guess we are both just feeling very centred and have changed our perspective (just about anything makes me happy these days). The thing about ‘walkabout’, I have learned, is that when you lose connection with yourself, you go walkabout. You leave the physical world behind and you find the other half of yourself, and then when you are one again, you can continue on the journey of life (or keep travelling!)
For now we are enjoying every bit of our journey, and have learnt the language of the road. As we are a ‘beast’ on the highway, Dave will often turn on his right indicator when it is safe for the car behind to overtake us. To thank us the car, now in front, will turn on his right, then left indicator once each. To say no worries, we do the same.