Saturday, February 28, 2009

The Big City

Here we are back in ‘the big city’ of Melbourne, surrounded by family and friends. We have enjoyed many ‘catch ups’, and have experienced many culinary delights such as Moroccan, Italian, Vietnamese and Afghan food!

Uncle, cousins and partners at Moroccan Soup Kitchen

But, we have also discovered Melbourne’s best kept secret.............. The Mornington Peninsula (OK so maybe not such a secret).
Dave and I had never been down the peninsula before and were truly impressed. The picturesque Mornington Peninsula is only an hour from Melbourne, but you could easily think you had travelled to Europe when you see the coastal landscape and olive groves reminiscent of Italy. The area is not overly developed and is home to National Parks, ensuring it hopefully stays that way.
We enjoyed the warmer water temp and went for a dip at Dromana. As we floated in the still waters of the bay, we viewed the bathing shacks painted all the colours of the rainbow (I have always wanted to see them!!). After a refreshing swim, if was off to Sorrento and Portsea. This area has money. Serious money. Sorrento, with its many historic buildings, only sells organic and low fat food- even in the local supermarket! Choose any one of the many cafes and watch the passing parade of the rich and famous, or should I say ‘establishment’ dahhling.
Portsea- a place of inexpressible elegance, as described by John Murray in 1802. The 1927 landmark Portsea Hotel, is a must. We enjoyed a bevvie, sitting out on the verandah watching the boats gently bob up

Portsea Hotel

and down as the sun danced across the water, the scene all very Mediterranean.
We did take a short cliff top walk in the National Park to London Bridge (a rock formation I was to discover).

'London Bridge'

From here we could see out to Cheviot Beach- the scene of the Harold Holt disappearance.
Monday will see us checking out of our Melbourne Caravan Park, at Coburg. We are heading North West, but will ensure we don’t go anywhere near the bushfire affected areas. It is hard to know what to do for sure- there are pleas for tourists to bring in much needed money, but then there are pleas to not travel in Victoria at all. We will however, play it safe and listen to the emergency broadcast station- the ABC.

Thursday, February 19, 2009

Goodbye Tassie


Tallest tree- Styx Valley

All around the world people are fascinated by huge and ancient trees- their beauty, spiritual power and the humbling feeling of walking amongst giants. And, so it was we found ourselves in the Styx Valley. Home to some of the most political logging ‘discussions’ and the tallest hardwoods on earth (true!). These Giant Swamp Gums are the world’s tallest flowering plants and the Styx Valley is home to a 90 metre tall specimen. Not that the average tourist would know. It is as if tourism is discouraged in this area- possibly due to the political sensitivity. As we gazed up the tree trunks, the trees seemed to reach into the heavens, and we could see why they certainly should be protected.
We set up camp nearby in the Mt Field National Park, which is just over half an hour north of Hobart. One of Tasmania’s oldest National Parks, she is my favourite. Mt Field is like 4 parks in one- from the tall forests and waterfalls of the lower sections to the glaciated mountains, windswept moors and tranquil lakes of the highlands, the park encompasses an amazing diversity of landscapes.


Russell Falls, Mt Field National Park

It even contains a mixed forest- a rainforest that contains eucalypts. We took an easy walk around Lake Dobson past ancient Pencil Pines and the Pandani Grove. I remember these plants from our time in Cradle Mountain. They don’t look like anything native to Australia (they are), with an almost prehistoric feel.
Being Monday, we ensured we were hooked up to power- our one must do television night. Top Gear, then Underbelly. Aaaaahhhh. We set up our TV (the laptop with the TV tuner tuned in) outside, as it was a balmy evening. We were engrossed in the action, but were easily distracted by the Pademelons (like a small wallaby) and possums that grazed at our feet and chased each other around.


Pademelons watching Underbelly with us

From Mt Field and her beauty, it was off to Deloraine. Our opinion of Deloraine was preconceived by the ‘awful’ TV documentary we have seen on the ship sailing over. However, we were both enamoured by this town. We camped by the river that flowed through the town’s centre creating lush green gardens. It certainly did have a ‘hippy’ influence, but did not seem to have any ‘feral’ types. Perhaps it is because I continually had ducklings clamber over my feet (oh so cute), at out campsite, that I really feel in love with this town.

Dave and friend in the town of Penguin

As we ensured we made the most of our last days in Tasmania, we continued on through the town of Penguin to Wynyard, in the heart of Tasmania’s north west coast. Dave and I took a walk up the Table Cape, a very steep walk, but one that rewarded with the best cliff top view for miles around. That was until we ventured to Stanley the following day.
Stanley is home to ‘The Nut’- the solidified lava lake core of a giant volcano whose mountainous sides have long since blown away, almost like a Tassie version of Uluru. If we thought our previous days walk was steep, it was nothing on climbing up The Nut.
Of course we could have taken the chairlift like everyone else, but where was their sense of adventure? It really only took us about 15 minutes to climb to the top, but boy was she steep. Stretching out our legs we walked around the core, soaking up the faraway view and the waters of Bass Strait colliding with the rolling waves of the Great Southern Ocean. We sucked in the cleanest air in the world- which has been proven by recent scientific measurements, and were ready for the decent. We both agree, it is actually easier to walk up very steep inclines.......
On our way back for a ‘rest’ we stopped off at Sisters Beach and Boat Harbour Beach. The latter is listed as one of the best in the world, and a regular on Getaway.
Today we departed the wild magic of the north west wilderness, as we move closer to our ships departure. As it is our last night on the Apple Isle, we stopped off at the Lactos Cheese Tasting Centre. As a farewell we are going to indulge in a wine and cheese dinner (the first since we have been away!). Located in Burnie, we sampled all that was on offer and walked away with a Mersey Valley, Heritage Blue, Heritage Double Brie, St Claire Swiss and a Raclette- a rustic cheese (whatever that means, but it tastes yum). To walk off some room for this feast, we detoured off to the Fernglade Reserve. It was here 3 years ago that we saw or first Pademelon, who would have known years later, we would be watching Underbelly with them!

Saturday, February 14, 2009

Chop, chop



Duckhole Lake

Tasmania has a long history of logging. Forests dominate most of this island and there is much debate on whether to save these old hardwood forests, with some of Australia’s tallest trees. The alternative is to cut down and clear fell vast areas for the sake of woodchips, sold mostly to Japan.

I believe forestry and visitors can co-exist, but think it is criminal to chop down these trees that are between 300- 400 years old for woodchips.
Driving through Forestry land, we arrived at the Duckhole Lake Walk, just south of Dover. This area is a prime example of Tasmanian Forestry working in harmony, with the environment. Back in the 1920’s to 40’s this area was logged. Today there is no logging near ‘historical’ logging sites or natural creeks, to maintain both beauty and water quality. An easy hours walk to Duckhole Lake, the fern lined path is flat and wanders through new growth trees, covered in moss and lichen. Along the way evidence of the past can be seen in the stumps of once grand trees and the old tramway, which seems to be dissolving back into the earth as it decays.

Duckhole Lake walk, once a forestry

It was a very picturesque walk and a great way to ‘recover’ from two fillings at the dentist, the day prior. Not really any ‘recovering’ needed for me, but there certainly was for Dean. Our host has just come out of a hospital stay to have polyps removed from his nose. The operation went well, and it is now just time to soothe the soreness. However, it didn’t stop him from whipping up some further culinary delights........
Valentine’s Day saw Kel and I awake to a huge vase of fresh picked roses each. The sweet perfume filled the house. I can’t believe how many of the roses are still in bloom, having arrived nearly 2 months ago to a feast of roses already. Our pleasures did not end there. Dean slaved away to create a Valentine’s Degustation.

Dean cooking Valentine's day dinner

Skewered spicy lamb mince, with a yoghurt raita followed by pork belly served with asian vegetables, noodles, sliced potato and herbed butternut pumpkin. There was no room for dessert, but a heart shaped chocolate cake was on offer.



Valentine's Day dinner and roses

It will be very sad to leave here (will we ever eat so well again), but we are set to depart tomorrow morning. We are off for the last time to explore the North West (the last undiscovered frontier) and then we set sail for the mainland on February 21.

Sunday, February 8, 2009

Home?

It is official- we are firmly entrenched in Tasmania. So far, we have appeared in the social pages of the Huon Valley News (a shot from New Years Eve), and Dave has demonstrated how to plane an oar for the Premier........ let me explain.

Having arrived back at our friends- Kel & Dean, we joined them in a two bedroom apartment for a weekend in Hobart and the Wooden Boat Festival. Dean, Principal Tutor of the Wooden Boat Building School, was to do a speech at a cocktail function to open the Festival. He roped Dave in to be a ‘student’ and off they went. All went well, although Dave avoided questions as best as possible.

Kelvins boat-which we saw Dean building 3 years ago- and the scene of onboard drinkies

Dean, a new found apiarist, took several jars of honey to sell at the Festival. The honey must be good- it sold out in the first day! So, if you are in Tassie, make sure you pick up some ‘Huon Honey’.



Huon Honey- straight from the hive to you....

After a day at the show, it was off to the Shipwright Arms for dinner. It was certainly nice to go out for a meal, after cooking in our camper for so long. The dinner was even better as Kel’s was at no charge, having been given the wrong meal.
Having enjoyed our meal out, we ventured to Sandy Bay for another the next evening. It was a balmy evening and the boys decided to enjoy their cleansing ale on the way to the restaurant. Drinking in public is not allowed, but this would not have been a problem had the Tasmanian institution for late night supper, Mykonos Takeaway, not been on fire. As we walked past fire crews and police were on hand to extinguish the blaze (a small one contained to a fridge at the rear). As we waited at the lights to cross, the police approached us and made the boys dispose of their cans- oh well.

Kel on Kelvin's boat- who is 5 months pregnant- yeah!!

After a weekend fun and frivolity (and a few boats of course), we checked out of our apartment. Dave and I took a drive up Mt Wellington on the way ‘home’ to experience the magnificent views of Hobart and surrounds. At 1.275 kms up, we could almost touch the clouds. The views were amazing, but being so exposed it was rather blowy and rather chilly.

The view from atop Mt Wellington, looking down on Hobart

Back at home, we nestled in for a relaxing evening. That was until Tim & Pete, the neighbours, arrived on the ride on mower complete with abalone and crayfish. Dave’s quiche he had prepared for dinner was packed up, as Tim set about to cook our feast. Tim had enjoyed a few ‘drinkies’ beforehand and certainly kept us entertained as he served the abalone in a garlic butter sauce. I have never eaten this particular seafood before, but found it delish. So was the cray, even though it was 11pm before we sat down to eat it!

Tonight will be a little ‘quieter’- we are all looking forward to the first episode of Underbelly and an early night!

Wednesday, February 4, 2009

Extremes

Australia, especially Tasmania, is a land of extremes. I have endured 170km winds that shut down parts of Hobart (while Dave was at the tennis) and temperatures soaring above 40 degrees. But, we wouldn’t have it any other way.
We have now been in Tasmania for over 5 weeks (boy time does fly when you are having fun), and some of you familiar with this part of the world are probably wondering why you have not read about us venturing to the classic haunts of Port Arthur, Cradle Mountain or Wineglass Bay. The truth is, we have done those all before, having visited just under 3 years ago. We had perfect weather then, especially at Cradle Mountain. For a destination that averages over 270 days of rain a year, we do not want to ruin our sunny memories of the Dove Lake walk (Cradle Mtn) and her breathtaking beauty.
So, we saw ourselves heading for the Bay of Fires, an area we were told that rivalled Cradle Mountain. First stop was a free camp at Friendly Beaches, situated on the idyllic stretch of coastline that makes up the Freycinet Peninsula.

Walkway to 'our beach'- Friendly Beaches

I’m not versed on how it got its name, but can certainly vouch for the friendliness of the local wildlife. The wallabies were very inquisitive and checked out both us and our camper, one (who I named Jeffrey) stared into the camper doorway looking like he wished he could bed with us for the night. Jeffrey then made himself comfortable at my feet (perhaps he liked sitting on the soft matting). Friendly Beaches is about 20 minutes from the world famous Wineglass Bay area. We did venture for a drive to where we had stayed once before at Coles Bay, but have to admit that we preferred ‘our beach’ area much more. The beauty of Wineglass Bay is only really seen from the air or from the top of a rather steep walk.


Blow hole at Bicheno- can you see a womens face in the spray?

Our beach’, was a haven of white silica sand surrounded by knuckles of granite mountains that make up the rugged, yet beautiful Freycinet Peninsula. As the weather warmed up, we also took our first ocean swim in Tasmania! I revelled in the tumbling waves and loved immersing my body in water (we were free camping remember). That was until Dave mentioned we were close to where a surfer was taken by a shark not long ago at Bicheno. I promptly exited the water and strolled along the beach to dry off in the sun. The days were certainly getting hotter and our wallaby friends took advantage of any moisture forming on our vehicle. Are you thirsty Jeffrey? He certainly was- he proceeded to drink just over 500mls!!. At this rate we would have to ration our water supplies.


All too soon we farewelled our furry friends, and headed for the Bay of Fires, so named in 1773 after aboriginal fires were sighted on shore. As our arrival co-incided with the highest temperature ever recorded here in Tasmania, the name certainly felt apt. We cooled off in a little bay that was sheltered from the pounding waves of the main beach. Finally, I got to spend a hot summer’s day on a beach!

Pic taken at 'The Gardens'- Bay of Fires- cool again!
After a stormy night, all too soon the cooler Tassie weather was back.
However, this enabled us to explore the Bay of Fires area. Eddystone Point, housing a still working lighthouse, was our first walk. As we ventured closer to the lighthouse we saw a few dead mutton birds, with every step the carnage increased. I stopped counting at 20. One barely alive huddled close to the lighthouse in a vain attempt to shelter from the wind. It seems the storm of the previous night sent the birds off course and they flew into the light- quite literally.

Eddystone Point Lighthouse- scene of mutton bird carnage

Not all of our bird encounters have been so gruesome, and as new found ‘twitchers’ we have delighted in spotting blue wrens, red robins, sea eagles, gannets, petrels and albatross in this area. The Bay of Fires is pristine, unspoilt and a bird lovers paradise, however for diverse beauty I would recommend to Cradle Mountain.
After 6 days of free camping, it was time for a ‘real shower’. Mind you, in the warm weather I did use our outdoor shower! Dave laughed as I exfoliated and preened outside in the buff. Lucky our campsite was very private...... Tomahawk on the north west coast, provided our real shower. It is known as Tasmania’s best kept secret, and I would tend to agree. Nice beach, nice vista and very relaxing.
We soon found ourselves in Longford on our way back to Hobart for the Wooden Boat Festival. Longford (which has the best showers EVER) , has many dwellings of historical interest, that are still in use today and an amble along the main street is very interesting.


Our 'home' at Longford- we camped by the river

Our last stop prior to Hobart was Oatlands. With its long history, Oatlands is one of the finest examples of an historic village in Australia. By 2010, the 1800’s mill will be fully restored, complete with bakery, and this village is sure to be a hot tourist destination. We free camped beside Lake Dulverton, only the lake has been bone dry since 2003..... still it was a pretty spot. We were joined by fellow campers, who were also on their way to the Wooden Boat Festival. Our new friend David makes miniature wooden boats and will be displaying them- I can’t wait to see more of his crafts at the show, having seen a sample.