Jeans & Genes

If Tasmania is a small island, then Bruny Island off the South East of Tasmania, is tiny. This means a very concentrated gene pool and allows the rare white (albino) wallaby to breed in increasing numbers. It also means a limited human gene pool.......... perhaps this is where Tasmanian’s got such a reputation for marrying their sisters and having ‘two heads’. We certainly met such a family at one of the free camping spots. They were abusive and threatening (and rather ugly looking). Being ‘out in the bush’, we decided it was best to pack up and leave the next morning to remove ourselves from any potential situation. We checked into the only caravan park on the island and found the people to be a more ‘gentle’ type, and rather friendly.
Although we are now experiencing warm (even hot) weather, Bruny was windy and cool. A walk up to Australia’s second oldest lighthouse was nearly impossible. It was a fight against the raging wind up to the top of the cape, but once there we

Lighthouse and view, Bruny Island

were greeted with panoramic views of the island. Out to sea, the wind lashed her fury, creating waves big enough to surf. But the wind made the walk back easier- I was almost flying down the steep path, the wind trying her best to pick me up and carry me away.

View across to the mainland (Tasmania)

Bruny is steeped in history, having had Cook, Bligh and Flinders amongst others navigate her shores and stop for supplies. Even before the white man, aborigines thrived, with the most famous of all- Truganini, calling Bruny home (she was the last Tasmanian aboriginal). By the late 1800’s four whaling stations graced her shores and we set off to explore the crumbling relics of this murderous past.
The walk to the point was easy enough, so we decided to continue to the top of Flute Cape. We knew it would be uphill, but were certainly not prepared for the 275m incline over a couple of km’s!

Flute Cape, Bruny Island

It was like walking up the top section of Awaba Street, only on uneven, sometimes muddy ground and never ending! Once at the top, we could see forever, the curve of the earth a distant horizon. We certainly slept well that night........
We moved camp again to a site on the neck joining the north and south of the island (a family friendly free campsite). With a beach on one side and a channel on the other, Dave threw in the line a few times, but still no fish have been caught. One day we will have fresh fish for dinner....... A penguin rookery was

See the pengiun! (Top right of pic)

only 3kms away, so we walked along the beach at dusk to catch a glimpse of these birds coming in from the ocean. Ahead we saw what I thought was a big patch of kelp that had been washed ashore, but as a flipper was raised as it to wave at us,


Seal waving to us, Bruny Island

we knew it was a seal. We hoped that he was not injured,

Seal up close, Bruny Island

as he did not look all that healthy, his movements slow and arthritic like. It turns out, he is known to the Rangers and is a very old seal, not able to move too far and often likes to sunbake on the warm road- they are hoping he doesn’t end up as road kill!
The Fairy Penguins did not disappoint. As the adults come home from a day fishing at sea, the chicks hungry from a day sleeping in the rookery, squeal in delight and seem to kiss and cuddle. They are the cutest little birds to watch, especially as they waddle up the sand. As we walked back home along the road, we encountered many more penguins displaying affection and watching us go by.
We awoke to a cornflower sky, and our departure from Bruny. It had turned out to be a magical place and I will never forgot my seal wave and baby penguins, fluffed up from the cold night air. We are settled in Hobart, or rather I am settled in Hobart. Dave has flown back to the mainland to see the


Dave at the Australian Open

Australian Open with Zelks and Vic. He is gone for 2 full days, allowing me to shop, explore and potter around home. I even managed to secure tickets to see Ross Noble (comedian) at the Royal Theatre for Sunday night. I am enjoying my time alone, but have Mum and 5 baby ducklings camped with me!

Ducks at my campsite, Hobart

Each morning, anticipating a free feed the ducklings fire up their little legs, as I open the door and squawk at my feet. I do not feed them, but this does not seem to deter them from wanting to stay at my camp site.

North, South, East & West

We have now been to the end of the earth... well the most southern tip of Australia that is. It is now a quest of mine to visit each compass point, having already done the most easterly (Cape Byron).

End of the road, can't drive any further south in Australia!

But back to Tasmania for now. We are currently ‘free camping’ (yeah the solar works), near Recherche Bay. Our campsite is called Gilhams Beach, but I prefer to call it the Enchanted Forest. We have had perfect weather- bright sunny days and not too hot. Each morning as I awake, I am greeted by the twittering birds, and a view of bright green ferns. From the ferns protrude lichen covered trees that gently sway in the morning breeze. The ground underfoot is soft, covered by both grass and sphagnum moss. I expect to hear a fairy in this enchanted garden..... is that one? No, it is just Dave relieving his bladder, looking more and more like Grizzly Adams each day.

Recherche Bay

This area was once alive and plans were afoot to build schools, houses and shops. Back then in the late 1800’s whaling was thriving, and when that ran out there was always coal and of course the timber. Alas, as each year the ocean was turned to a sea of red, the whales were soon to be no longer. These days Recherche Bay has a handful of houses and occupants, nearby Cockle Creek a population of 3

Cockle Creek, Population 3!

I guess that is what makes this World Heritage listed area so wild and alluring, riddled with natural beauty and remnants from a bustling past.

Recherche Bay

Our first day, we walked just over an hour to Fishers Point around the rocky coastline, past ancient aboriginal midden and whalers grave sites. The remnants of the old pilot’s house (which was also a pub at one stage) and scattered whale bones

Fishers Point, sheep carasses and crab pots....

from a bygone era made the scene quite eerie. Someone obviously wanting to make this ghostly vision even more so, had deposited an old cray pot with a sheep carcass atop,
next to a tall pile of rocks, with twigs jutting out at all angles. It was a scene from a pirate movie, made all the more real when a baby brown snake came into viewsunning itself almost guarding Fishers Point.,
After a day toying with ghosts from the past, it was time for a hearty meal. You may remember an old one legged bushie made me a camp oven from a LPG bottle, back in Queensland? Well we have now christened her, having bought a ‘campie’ to go inside. After a couple of hours our roast beef and vegetables, were ready. While we sipped a glass of red and enjoyed our roast, the camp oven embers kept us warm and toasty.
Our discovery of this area not yet complete, we packed supplies for the big one- a walk to the most southern point, having reached the ‘end of the road’ by car. Setting off we were greeted by a rocky path, made so from a glacial past. Just as our feet became sore from the uneven ground, open heath land lay ahead.

Wildflowers on our walk to the bottom of Australia

A boardwalk made it easy going through the thick wildflowers out in bloom and with the sky a bright blue above, we could see La Perouse mountain and her permanent patch of snow. The open heath gave way to a rainforest, with a fresh water stream to refill our drinking bottles. A couple of hours later, up and over a small rise, there she was- the bottom of Australia.

The bottom of Australia!

Parts of the coastline looked like a moonscape- a reminder of how cold winds and rain can ravage this remote wilderness. There was now nothing between us and Antarctica. Traversing the ‘moonscape’ we descended some steps to the beach. It is a long walk to this spot, but not a hard one. This is handy given the keen surfers who carry their boards all that way, in order to be able to claim to have surfed the southern most beach of Australia.
After a long day of navigating this land (and some weary legs), it was round two of using our campie. With the leftover roast beef and some fresh vegetables we made a casserole. Just what the doctor ordered as the sun set and the cold night air crept into our campsite.
After 4 nights here, we will again impose on our Tasmanian hosts- Kel and Dean for a ‘real’ shower and some washing before we set off on our next wilderness adventure.

Live and learn

Did I say Tasmania was cold? Boy it is hot, we got our warm weather, and sunburn. With a big hole in the ozone over Tasmania, you certainly burn easy. The weather has settled again, but it is nice to be warming up!
With the warmer weather, I decided it was a good time to ‘de-fuzz’ and get a wax job. A search on Yellow Pages, showed a listing for ‘Huon Beauty’. I rang the number and an older sounding gentleman answered. I thought this rather odd for a beauty salon and so enquired if I had phoned Huon Beauty. Indeed I had. I then proceeded to ask if I could make a booking for the next day, for a bikini wax. After some throat clearing, he informed me it was a men’s hairdressing salon. I wanted the ground to swallow me up...... I was rather embarrassed! But no, I couldn’t get off the phone that easy. He proceeded to tell me how he had bought the business a year ago, which used to be a beauty salon, and not changed the name. Oh well I am sure I will have many more of ‘those’ experiences along the way!
I recovered from my ‘ordeal’, and the four of us got ready for our ‘tramp’ to Lake Esperance high up on Mt Hartz. The walk started off easy enough on a level boardwalk. It was cool, but this seemed to match the ambiance of the alpine landscape. As we climbed the vegetation became denser,


View from Mt Hartz, across to Bruny Island

then thinned back to expose an amazing view of Bruny Island and mountain ranges to the north, south and west. It was stunning. And serene. An hour later we reached our destination. As we sat at the lakes edge and ate our picnic sandwiches, we soaked up her beauty.

Lake Esperance, atop Mt Hartz

The weather began to close in, and as we made our way back, we braved both strong winds and rain. However, our spirits were high, and we joked and giggled the wetter and colder we became. It was still a great spot to be!


'Big Tree'- a walk we took after climbing Mt Hartz

Dave and I are soon to leave our generous hosts, so next was a day trip to visit the hardware, Repco and odd bods shop topped off with lunch at the Beachside Hotel, Kingston (huge plate of yum food!). For the past 4 months we have had ‘battery trouble’ in the camper. The battery only lasting 2 days, even though we have a solar panel on the roof. After months of investigating and tinkering Dave has solved and fixed the problem! YEAH!!! The solar works! Well done Dave. We can now free camp for long periods (mmmm .... am I pleased this is fixed, hee hee). There is now really nothing left for us to buy or fix for the camper. I’m not sure what Dave will do with all his spare time now.
Although it seems Dave has turned to working the land and has hacked a path to the river, and mended a fence- we had several sheep from next door help themselves to Kel & Dean’s paddock. No problem really, however we don’t want them to get to the roses. In full bloom, over 300 rose plants adorn the circular driveway and various beds of the garden. Such a pretty sight, and sweet smelling perfume.

Tex, Kel & Dean's dog

So it is with sweet memories and a sweet smell we leave ‘our home’ to venture further south.

Happy New Year

One word for Tasmania- cold. Actually two words- cold and pretty. I can’t remember any other New Years Eve afternoon, in Australia, where we have gone ‘up the mountain’ to see snow. The snow on Mt Hartz had actually melted by the time we arrived, but never fear,

Lookout on the way up Mt Hartz

it was to snow again..... and again. We took a bushwalk to see the waterfall, very pretty- just a pity we weren’t wearing more clothes. We should have been here last week- apparently that is when Tasmania had its ‘week of summer’.
The cold didn’t stop us from attending the ‘Hawaiian night’

Hawaiian night, NYE at the Kermandie Pub

at the local Kermandie Pub to celebrate the final day of 2008....... although we did have ‘thermals’ on under our Hawaiian shirts. A few dances with the locals and it was back to Kel & Dean’s to countdown the new year. Sparklers lit, Kel, Dean, Kel’s parents Sue & Geoff and Dave and I, cheered in 2009 watching the Sydney fireworks on tele.
Next morn we awoke to 2009 and rain. However, we have learnt that you ignore the rain. It will pour for 10 minutes, then become bright and sunny.... then rain again...... then sun...... you get the picture.
Tasmania is filled with natural beauty and nearby Kel & Dean’s is some of the most picturesque. Dave and I ventured down to Hastings Cave’s. It is 9 degrees inside the cave all year round, so we we rugged up... but it was warmer inside the cave than out.

Photos from inside Hastings Caves

The caves are the most spectacular we have seen (having done Jenolan, Wombeyan, Wellington, Capricorn and certainly worth the visit.)
Port Huon, where ‘Kel & Dean’ live is approx 50 minutes south of Hobart. They live on 9 acres, so of course have some chooks amongst other animals nearby. Venturing for a walk down to the river with Dave, I had visions of showing him the local platypus. Instead, we were greeted by the overly friendly local goats. ‘Them goats’ have a funny look in their eyes, and I admit I was a tad scared of them. I kept calling for Dave to save me, as the goats ran over for a pat. Dave laughed, but later managed to have his own animal encounter- checking the hen house for eggs, he collected one egg and one bumble bee- firmly trapped in his hair (see he really should cut it........)
However, the best feature of this area is ‘Dean’s Campie’. What Dean can’t cook in a camp oven isn’t worth eating. Nothing beats a dinner of camp oven pork,

Roast pork in the campie

vegies and best ever crackling. Tonight we are having a BBQ, but Dean is whipping us up a Sheila’s Pudding in the campie for dessert (an apricot and peach sponge pudding). A light dinner really, after all we have all been to Salamanca Markets, Taste of Tasmania (huge food & wine festival) and the Cascade Brewery today

Cascade Brewery

(we sampled every beer). What better souvenir of Tasmania than Huon Pine, so today at the markets I bought myself a little cat made from Huon Pine.... well I can’t have a real one.
We plan to venture back to Mt Hartz and take a walk around the lake, and a few more must do’s before we leave the Huon area and enjoy the rest of Tasmania (we hear it is to warm up some more too!)