Gieke Gorge
The gorge itself is carved out of limestone, differing from the more common sandstone of others seen to date. With the wet season producing a torrent of water rushing down the gorge, the limestone walls are carved into many interesting shapes. I’m sure I have seen similar ‘modern’ art sculptures, only the gorge is alot more artistic! There is even a very real likeness of Richard Nixon. As you marvel at the natural formations, you also cast your eye over the many (and I mean many) large freshwater crocodiles lining the banks.
We are making our way across to Broome and have settled in Derby to restock, replenish and service the car. Derby has the feel of a town on the brink of expansion, with enough attractions to keep you entertained.
Derby is also home to the highest tides in Australia, with variations reaching 11 metres. It was really quite bizarre to stand on the jetty, and watch the incoming tide. Moving very fast, in no time at all the jetty, which stands 12 metres above land level on low tide, almost becomes engulfed on high tide, all in a matter of minutes! The jetty also provides a good spot to catch mud crab.
Crabbing on Derby Jetty
Dave, having befriended our next door neighbour, was loaned some WA standard crab pots (they are animal friendly over here) and we set off to try our luck. We may have only caught one crab, but Dave won the heart of a 5 year old german boy who followed him everywhere and was so excited when Dave (with the help of a little translation) asked him to help pull the pots up. His mother couldn’t get him to leave.
The waters around here are used for pearl farming, with Paspaley (who produce 80% of the worlds pearls) found right here in the Kimberley’s.
Boab Prison Tree
In the early days aborigines were captured and used as slave labour for the most dangerous pearl dives. The Boab Prison Tree, just out of town, was used as a staging point for these ‘prisoners’ being walked into Derby. Over 1500 years old, this specimen is huge and certainly would house a few men.
But the most intriguing feature up here is the Horizontal Waterfall and we treated ourselves to an overnight adventure, to witness this phenomenon.
Horizontal Falls, seen from above
Picked up from our camper, we were transported to the airport to board the ‘Beaver’- a 1961 four passenger seat sea plane. Fifty minutes later, having viewed the Kimberley’s by air, we landed on Talbot Bay beside a catamaran that was to be our lodgings for the night.
'The Beaver'- so small Dave had to be co-pilot!
After a cool drink it was on board the ‘fast boat’ for a ride up the creek. The creek is part of the tidal flow and at low tide becomes a mud flat. With the tide differentials increasing, it was back towards (and through!) the main attraction- the Horizontal Falls. The ‘falls’ are actually the tides gushing through a narrow gorge of the Buccaneer Archipelago. As the tide can reach up to 11 metres, the water moves very fast and quite literally rushes through the gorge faster than it can disperse out the other side. This creates a ‘waterfall’ up to 4 metres high! It was quite weird to see this wall of water develop.
Wall of water building up (hard to see in a 2D photo....)
Back on board the cat, we sipped champagne as we watched the colours of the Kimberley sunset and dined on fresh barramundi. Next morning we were woken at 6am- time to shower and jump back on the jet boat to view the falls again- nearing the 2 metre mark they were getting too big to ride the jet boat through, but as the sun rose, we got to marvel this spectacle.
Buccaneer Archipelago
Leaving our water home, the flight took us over the Archipelago, were we viewed the tidal mud flats, islands and remote Kimberley region. Much of the water in the Archipelago is still uncharted and current sea charts say ‘depth give or take 500 metres’, ‘depth give or take 2 metres’! No wonder there are not many boats up here.
Tidal mud flats
Now you would think we have seen enough gorges to date and if you are sick of reading about them stop here!
1800's Police Station ruins, Windjana Gorge NP
With a couple of days before we depart for Broome, we set off along the infamous Gibb River Road (infamous for how remote and tyre shredding the 4WD road is) to view more of such. Tunnel Creek (which is not a gorge!) is as the name suggests an underground creek. WOW. Pretty darn cool.
Inside Tunnel Creek
Armed with reef shoes and a strong torch we set off into the tunnel. The tunnel is tall and wide, so not claustrophobic and a sandy bank allows you to walk beside the creek. Occasionally you have to wade through the water, but it is clear and easy to see your footing. Being limestone and with a constant water source, stalactites and columns adorn the walls and ceiling making this a real Aladdin’s Cave.
Limestone formations, Tunnel Creek
But back to the gorge- Windjana Gorge. This gorge is also part of the ancient Devonian Reef of the Kimberley region. Sheer walls that were once undersea and alive with coral now stand as a reminder of what will become of the Great Barrier Reef in a few billion years (or sooner if global warming helps it along). Fossils and shells adorn the cliffs, but the most impressive feature here is the crocodiles. Being the freshwater variety they are no threat and you can really get up close and personal. However, when they moved their back legs into launching position we tended to move away quick, especially as our neighbour had been bitten on a previous visit.
Wont show you the pics of when we got closer.....
Crocs from all angles.....
One more gorge was on our agenda- Bell Gorge. Such a pretty spot and finally somewhere safe from crocs, to swim at too.
Bell Gorge
I opted to stay at the top pool, above the terraced waterfall, while Dave took the walk to the bottom (he is more agile on rocks than I!). After a cool swim it was back to our camp (we stayed in our tent for two nights again) to watch the Bower Birds rifle through our belongings.
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