Sunday, May 31, 2009

De-gorgeous

Nestled between the West and East Macdonnell Ranges, Alice was a welcome pit stop. However, it was time to move on. We had travelled through the West Macdonnell Ranges, and stayed at many of the gorges on the way (as you may recall).
The East Macdonnell Ranges are not as frequented by tourists, but still home to some great spots. We soon arrived at Emily Gap and Jessie Gap, which both display aboriginal rock art from the caterpillar dreamtime. However, home for the night was a camp at Trephina Gorge.

Trephina Gorge

We did enjoy a walk around the rim of the gorge and yes, it was all very interesting, but both Dave and I were a little ‘gorged out’. You can have too much of a good thing.
So off north it was, crossing over the Tropic of Capricorn.

Crossing the Tropic of Capricorn

However, we were still very much in the outback, with the tropical climate a few hundred kilometres away yet. The Stuart Highway, which runs from Adelaide to Darwin, passes through some very remote countryside. Asthe sun beat down from above, the temperature rose. With nothing for miles between roadhouses, except for memorials to a few dead people (no disrespect intended), termite mounds and abandoned cars (if the aborigines run out of fuel with no funds for more, the car is simply left where it stopped), we certainly noticed the change in vegetation as the climate changed.
Travelling around 500 kilometres per day, we stopped at most of the roadhouses to stretch our legs and yack to the eccentric locals. With tourist dollars vital, many stops have a drawcard, such as the giant Anmatjere (aboriginal) man at Aileron. Ti Tree was the next roadhouse stop on the map, and we had planned to spend the night. Servicing many aboriginal communities in outlying areas, the place seemed to have a desolate feel about it, so we decided to push on.

Barrow Creek Pub


Loading the CD player with some dance tunes, we turned up the volume and funked our way to Barrow Creek. Built the same year as the Sydney Harbour Bridge, the Barrow Creek Pub is also a famous landmark (and not just because it is near the scene of the Falconio murder). In the tradition of shearers who wrote their name on a banknote and pinned it to the wall to ensure they could afford a drink when next they came through, travellers have left all sorts of items all over the walls, including bank notes.
Ten kilometres up the road we drove over the bloodstain (all that has been found of Falconio), and past the bushes that Joanne Lees hid in. Low lying bushes, were now dotting the countryside, a change from grasses, saltbush and granite outcrops of the previous few hundred miles.

Wycliffe Well Roadhouse.... and little green men


With not much else to entertain the eye, it is easy to get the imagination going. Wycliffe Well is one of the more legendary stops along the highway. Famous for documented UFO sightings, this roadhouse is decorated with alien figures and newspaper UFO reports. Dave said it was all a croc, however I think he was worried about a little green man encounter, as we continued on to the Devils Marbles to set up camp.

Our campsite location, Devils Marbles


These massive boulders of granite are precariously balanced on top of one another and look as if they could easily fall. Home for the night was at the base of these sacred boulders. We were both glad to have pushed on and stayed here for the night. As the sun rose in the morning the Devils Marbles glowed with a fiery intensity, and gave us some great photos. Here again, a dingo seemed to take a liking to me and provided an escort each time I ventured to the toilet.


Strongman Dave, Devils Marbles

Similar to Uluru, a sense of peace and tranquillity pervades the Devils Marbles, so we took time to soak up the ancient spirit with a walk, before heading off on the road again.
We had been warned not to stay in Tennant Creek and that the town with its boarded up windows and security screens, had an air of despair about it. We didn’t feel the town was that bad, but we did not stay for the night. Although, we did take the time to visit the Nyinkka Nyunyu Cultural Centre. The Cultural Centre was informative, with good story telling, however we felt overpriced. The mood was further spoilt by the cafe attached serving ‘authentic’ thai food.

Original homestead, Banka Banka


Our camp for the night was to be Banka Banka- part of the Kidman Cattle Station. This place is a pure oasis. Perched on a natural spring, we were told to use as much water as we wanted. After dust, dirt and water restrictions this was heaven. Our spot was right under a Boab tree, on the soft green grass. Aaaaahh. Banka Banka is the oldest pastoral lease in the NT (initially owned by the Bank of NSW), and the original homestead still stands. As the evening cooled we were treated to a very entertaining slide show about the station- our hosts displaying a raw and funny sense of humour!
With many underground springs the vegetation became taller, thicker and greener. Many wattle bushes were now lining the roadside and as we pulled into Newcastle Waters, it also marked the cut off point of Central Australia. We were now in the Top End, and a more tropical environment.
Newcastle Waters is a 1930’s droving town. As road trains have replaced the need for drovers the town has been abandoned, with only a couple of dwellings still in use. However, the National Trust has purchased a few of the historic buildings and you can take yourself through the old store and pub, complete with artefacts.
We were still getting used to seeing so much water, but it was welcomed with the temperature now commensurate with the tropics. The famous Daly Waters Pub, a popular icon, provided our next pit stop. The pub’s bar and walls are decorated in bras, undies and thongs as well as many other knick knacks. You could spend all day just looking at the walls!

Daly Waters Pub

As the clock ticked 5pm we pulled into the Elsey National Park at Mataranka. This National Park was once part of the Elsey Station made famous by Jeannie Gunn’s We of the Never Never. The remainder of the station is still in use, however the deeds have been handed over to the traditional Mangarayi owners.
We were now certainly closer to the streamy tropics. Palm trees lined the road and river banks, and we broke out the shorts and singlets. After setting up camp, there was only one thing to do- jump in the river and cool off. Such as strange concept at 5.30pm nearing in winter! This area is worth a visit. The National Park has many great short or long walks, each with its own highlight- relics of the Elsey Station, or a relaxing vista of palm trees dotting the crystal clear, spring water creek. But, the main highlight here is the thermal pools. At a temperature of 34 degrees, they are not too hot. We have spent much lazy time floating in the clear spring water dappled by the filtered light of a palm leaf.

Mataranka Thermal Pool, (yes that is me)Dave at Bitter Springs Thermal Pool





The Elsey homestead, recreated for the We of the Never Never movie, now stands near the thermal pools and is still set up as a home. Having seen the movie with my Mum and Grandma, it was fun to see the country, as well as the homestead and grave sites. However, it is amusing to note that Jeannie only lived on Elsey Station for less than a year, due to her husband’s death.
Elsey Homestead, We of the Never Never
Spot the odd one out- cast of We of the Never Never

Saturday, May 23, 2009

A Town like Alice



Friendly Big Red

We were both very impressed with Alice Springs. Green lawns and tidy homes line the suburban streets and the city centre has every conceivable need catered for. The Cultural Precinct houses some amazing artworks, both indigenous and western.
However, Alice does have a seedier side. Littering the Mall are aborigines cast out from their own communities. Taking solace in alcohol, it is a sad sight, their faces and bodies ravaged by this drug. However, it has only been a mere 137 years since contact with white man in these parts and perhaps even a shorter time with alcohol. For a race that has lived and survived here for 40,000 years, it will be a few more generations yet before this clash of culture is steadied. But, it will happen.

Warrior Dave, Desert Park

Central Australia is desert country, but still very much alive. A trip to the Desert Park, gave us a chance to get up close and personal with local kangaroos, birds, lizards, snakes and the Thorny Devil.


Thorny Devil, Desert Park



We also enjoyed a bird of prey show and a talk and demonstration of aboriginal culture, by a local 'Arrante'.

Balancing a Coolamon on my head, Desert Park

Not far from Alice is Hermannsburg- established in the late 1880’s, it was the first Lutheran Aboriginal Mission. The town is restricted aboriginal land (and looks like a dump), but the historical precinct is open to all and includes the church, school, tannery and various whitewashed German farmhouse style buildings from the early mission times.

Hermannsburg Mission

It is also here that the famous aboriginal watercolour artist Albert Namatjira was born. In honour one of the buildings has been turned into a gallery displaying Albert’s and the Namatjira family’s work. Albert produced some great landscape paintings of the local area and was awarded citizenship 10 years before any other aboriginal. With a foot in each camp, the strain became too much and was a contributing factor of his early death.

Albert Namatjira's grave

The desert region contains many secret places. Palm Valley, in the Finke Gorge National Park, 20 kilometres from Hermannsburg is one such place. Palm Valley is a fascinating relic from literally millions of years ago, when Central Australia was covered in rainforest. With the gorge protecting from wind and the sandstone rock housing constant water, these Red Cabbage Palms have survived from the dinosaur age and are found nowhere else in the world.

Palm Valley

Sounds all very exciting, but here are the facts. The palms are not red, as the name suggests, and the 4WD track is diabolical. We abandoned the car with 1km to go and walked the rest of the way into the valley. The track is actually the dry Finke River (which is the oldest river in the world), and not really a driveable road at all. Some cars did attempt to drive all the way and were rewarded with damage to the underside.
At least on the way home, we toured a more sedate road and visited Simpsons Gap, another pretty waterhole.

Simpsons Gap

As it was now close to dusk, we also got to see the black footed rock wallaby. I am still amazed at how sure footed they are on the rocks.
Sturt's Desert Pea- such a pretty flower out here

Monday, May 18, 2009

The power and the passion

Made it to the NT!

Neither words nor photos can truly express the awesome power of Uluru. The ‘rock’ is far bigger than expectations and seems to draw you in to her spirit. As you drive closer the rock becomes alive, her many drainage lines appearing as arms reaching out to pull you in. She devours the sky, sucking the very life out of all that is near. Once in her vortex you become mesmerized by what can only be described as her awesome presence. Since a young girl I have wanted to visit Ayres Rock (as it was called back then) and seeing her for the first time was an emotional experience. I was here seeing the famous monolith. But this was not the only emotion that she made me feel.
Uluru- photos don't capture her true power

Dave and I set off to climb Uluru. We should have known from the beginning stages that the climb would not be easy. It starts off steep, a low chain rail to hold onto and assist your way. Taking it slowly, you climb halfway up her east side. The chain rail then stops, but she flattens out a little as you traverse east to her highest point.

A quarter of the way up

However, this path has many steep downhill verticals that are complimented with equally steep uphill ‘walls’. I had made it two thirds of the way and gave up. I simply could not scale the wall in front of me. I bid farewell to Dave and said I would wait for him. I felt defeated. I had wanted to conquer her for so long and had now failed. The tears came. Tears of frustration.
I was determined to not let her win. So again I tried to scale the wall. Down I slid, I simply could not reach any hand or foot holds to hang on. I slumped down. With a few calming breaths, I remembered the skills taught to me rock climbing in the Grampians. I studied the rock wall before me and worked out a path, I felt I could achieve. On the third attempt I made it!! My joy was to be short lived as I discovered an even bigger wall in front of me further on. Again, I took time to plan a path and finally made it to the top. I had done it. I was not the only one to cry atop Uluru. Many felt a similar frustration or sheer fright- it is a long way up, and a dangerous climb in parts. However, the view is amazing. Joining Dave we both looked to Kata Tjuta (the Olgas) in the distance and a vast plain that seems to go forever. Time was spent savouring the view, before we began the descent. Not as bad as expected, but boy was I glad when finally back on terra firma.

On top of Uluru- The Olgas in the distance

After recovering and some lunch, we took a walk to a special waterhole, home of Wanampi, an ancestral aboriginal watersnake. A rock shelter along the way gave us an insight into the rock art of Uluru. The walk around her base is just shy of 10 kilometres, but being totally flat lets you both enjoy the walk and the sight before you. This walk again reminds you of the enormous size and sheer power that is Uluru.
We also took the time to explore the 36 domes of Kata Tjuta (the Olgas), a 50 kilometre drive west of Uluru. The Valley of the Winds walk, listed as challenging was nothing compared to Uluru. Although stony underfoot, we ventured through the domes, into a valley and gorge, with some spectacular sights. The wind whipped past us in parts, and no doubt how this walk got its name!

Kata Tjuta (The Olgas). Note the headwear- a must in the NT

After 3 days, it was time to bid farewell to Uluru and her changing faces. At various times of the day, shadows and light can make her look very different.

Good bye Uluru

After days of long walks, we drove the relative short distance to Curtin Springs and free camped at the Roadhouse for the night. The resident emu (tame) took a liking to our herbs, so again we had to hide them in the car for the night.

Our emu friend, Curtain Springs

We would be taking the Mereenie Loop, which eventually led us to Alice Springs. However, Kings Canyon was next on our agenda.

On top of Kings Canyon



Kings Canyon involved another long, rocky walk to fully experience the chasm. During the 3 hour walk, the sheer red rock face soars over 100 metres, hiding prehistoric plants like the giant cycads. The Garden of Eden, a permanent water oasis provides refuge to many plant and bird species not seen before. It is truly a lost world. Coupled with layered sandstone domes (very funky rocks), it really does feel like a lost city!

Kings Canyon- this spot was in Priscilla, Queen of the Desert

Our first real dingo experience was also at Kings Canyon. We think she was a little tame, but she did like to sit with us of an evening, perhaps because everyone else shooed her away. However, we were told not to leave our shoes out at night.

Our dingo friend, Kings Canyon
The Mereenie loop is 93 kilometres of dirt road. Let me correct that- 93 kilometres of corrugations, dips, bumps and dust- all of which is known as ‘the NT massage’. For this ‘pleasure’ we had to obtain a permit, as we would be travelling across aboriginal land. Not many choose to take this route, due to the condition of the road, but it really was a slice of pristine wilderness. Vivid colours of red, yellow, green and blue abound and there was plenty of animal life. A dingo led the way for a while, and then we were joined by camels and wild brumbies. These are considered pests and evidence of a recent aerial cull meant the land was littered with the carcasses of both. Not pretty to see a horse obviously shot down while in the full stride of a gallop.
The land is flat, except for the occasional gorges and meteor craters. The most impressive crater is Gosse Bluff- at 20 kilometres wide it is twice the size of Uluru. The impact was devastating and for years afterwards the weather patterns were affected. Imagine the dust!! But for anyone travelling out here- here is a tip. Don’t bother with the very rough 4WD track to view inside the crater. Instead view the entire scene from Tylers Pass Lookout; it really is a spectacular sight.

Gosse Bluff from Tylers Pass Lookout

At last, we made it to Ormiston Gorge. It had been a rough road to here, so we bunkered down for a couple of nights. We were now in the West MacDonnell National Park, and both very impressed with the scenery on offer. Images of the outback conjure sparse plant life and dust. The reality is an ecosystem that has adapted to the seasons and the land is plentiful, although harsh. Victoria was much more of a dry dustbowl, than out here!

Ormiston Gorge

We should have remembered the advice not to leave our shoes out at night. Late one night we could hear the dingoes sniffing at our door. They were happily playing with our shoes. However, in the morning we simply retrieved them from the dry creek bed, with no real damage done. They are very naughty puppies! We both love the howling sound of the dingo- a chorus set off at dusk and dawn.

Glen Helen Gorge, near Ormiston Gorge

Refreshed we continued our journey to Alice Springs, stopping to see some of the tourist sights on the way. The Ochre Pits is where the desert aboriginal people mined for this natural mineral.

Ochre Pits

Used in paintings and ceremonial body decoration, it is one of a handful of aboriginal ochre sights in Australia. Therefore this valuable possession was traded with other tribes from far away.
Ellery Creek Big hole- very pretty spot for a swim

Friday, May 8, 2009

Happy Birthday to me!


Says alot about the Outback........

I have come to realise why I love the ocean so much, it is for the same reason that I feel so happy as we travel through the outback. We are travelling along the 3000 kilometre Stuart Highway from Adelaide to Darwin, as it cuts through the Australian heart. Traversing a desert that was in prehistoric times a vast inland lake where dinosaurs roamed, the countryside is a big open space with a big, big sky. You feel a certain sense of freedom, a feeling of total contentment. For as far as the eye can see of this parched landscape is golden Spinifex tufts and mulga trees with saltbush lining the roadside. In places the road is smeared with animal blood and carcasses, no doubt victims of the huge road trains. These trucks are up to four trailers long, at 54 metres, and they don’t stop for anything.

We look so small (at left) next to the road trains

However, the rotting carcasses attract Wedge Tailed Eagles. Many times we have driven past up to 10 of these majestic birds feasting on the one kill. They seem to glare at you as you drive past, protecting their dinner.
Leaving Port Augusta, we headed for Woomera, or as I called Boys Toys Town.

Missile Park, Woomera


The site of missile launches and all things military, the town has a very cool park with many displays of missiles, satellite rockets and planes. Having heard of this town, because of its ‘detention’ past, we were both pleasantly surprised. The town is very neat, very tidy and very welcoming. Even the birds are welcoming. Picnicking in a local park (with very green grass) we met a new feathered friend. ‘Bird’ (a long billed Corella) called me a gorgeous girl and asked me back to his place, but was not happy when we wanted to leave him. I finally got to laugh at Dave, after my bush turkey incident, as I watched our upset friend chase him and try to attack his ankles.
My new friend

We did not stay at Woomera, instead we free camped at a roadhouse 7 kilometres away. Nothing else was there, but we had many fellow campers. As we lay in bed we listened to some of them solve the world’s problem. It was more entertaining than TV for the night.
Pimba Roadhouse- 'Spuds'- nothing else is here

It is a strange sensation being out in the middle of nowhere. Of all the holiday destinations- beach resorts, ancient ruins, tropical paradises, we are here in the dust (and flies). Of all the things I have lost, it is my mind I am mostly missing! But, we are genuinely happy and wouldn’t swap our adventures for a Mai Tai in Fiji (yet).

Lake Hartz- looks like snow, but is all salt! On the way to Coober Pedy

With an audio book in the CD player, we set off for Coober Pedy some 365 kilometres away, but also the next town. This is deliverance country and it has taken a few days to feel at ease. Not that we are in any danger or have reason to be, but it is so very different to anything we have experienced before. Coober Pedy has about 5000residents, but the main street is very small with minimal shops. There are really no houses to be seen and it all looks like a moonscape. That is because 85% of the town is underground. With temperatures that reach to the 50’s in summer, living underground is a very good option. All year round the temperature can be regulated to around 22 degrees inside.


Using diving rods, Coober Pedy in underground mine. I apparently had the gift and found a seam!!

As fate was to have it, it is here that I celebrated my birthday. During our last stay in Melbourne, a couple of friends had posted presents to be opened on my birthday. It was very fun to awake and open them! We spent the day exploring the town’s underground museums, opal shops and a home. Once furniture and the like is inside an underground home, it is not the easiest thing to move and remodel. The home we toured is still furnished and decorated the same as it was in the 60’s and 70’s- a real step back in time. The house however is very comfortable and even has an underground pool inside! Our last visit of the day was the underground Serbian Church, the most spectacular of the three underground churches in town.

Lounging underground, Coober Pedy

Donned in my new opal earrings, it was back to camp, where Dave served up his famous Panang Curry and we washed it down with a bottle of plonk from the Barrossa. All in all, one very enjoyable birthday!

Underground Serbian Church

Coober Pedy is full of little idiosyncrasies- like the golf course. The golf course was the concept of a lady called Faye (it was her house we visited), some 40 years or more ago. Thinking it should have a reciprocal course overseas, she got in contact with St Andrews- the home of golf- in Scotland. They obliged, but to this day, it is the only town in Australia to have reciprocal rights. So for all you golf fans, here is a little known fact. To play 9 holes on the St Andrews course is a 5 year waiting list and a cost of 600 pounds. However, if you are a member of the Coober Pedy golf club (membership fee $100) there is no wait and no fee! Worth the trip out here for golf enthusiasts!
Lake Eyre has only filled to capacity three times in the past 150 years (1974, 1984, 2004), so we embarked on a day trip to see this amazing feat of nature. The landscape on the way out was harsher, than we had encountered thus far. Nothing but dirt and stone for miles. With no plant life, there is also no animal life. At times it was hard to distinguish the road, as it all looked the same. Finally the terrain became more familiar, with a touch of green and shrubs. We soon landed at Australia’s smallest town- William Creek, located 168km’s from Coober Pedy. After a $5 coffee in the eclectic bar (worst coffee ever, but at $5 each we drank every mouthful) it was back on the road.

William Creek Hotel

Hard to imagine, but the landscape became even more inhospitable. The dirt and rock was back, but this rock was almost black in the sun. It looked like a raging bushfire had wiped out everything in its path, leaving a wasted land. But this is Australia, we just have never seen her like this before.

Australia at her inhospitable best, on the way to Lake Eyre

And then like a mirage we gazed upon a sandy bank leading to a powder blue expanse of water. The water was plentiful, but a shame to say the birdlife not. Although, it was strange to see a flock of seagulls out here! The lake is the size of Wales, the countryside we had travelled to reach her part of Anna Station. Anna Station is the world’s largest cattle station- half the size of Tasmania.

Looks like some water- that is the point! Lake Eyre is filling up.

We bid farewell to Coober Pedy and now find ourselves bedding down at Marla for the night. Again, nothing really here other than a roadhouse, but we have travelled enough for the day.
Goodbye Coober Pedy where artists create from junk....