Such is life

You may remember me likening our digs to a resort. They say the tropical north is paradise (I have heard there are only two states to be in QLD and pissed....). My paradise..... a handsome waiter set up a table and chairs on the beach, near our camp, complete with prawns and wine (perhaps however you will note the wine is in a Black & Gold Soda bottle- it is easier to keep in the fridge than the whole cask......). The waiter then joined me (OK, it was Dave) and we sat and watched the sun set.


Prawns & wine on Mackay beach

Having our fill of prawns we then feed them to ‘Mr Percival’, while we planned the next days adventure.
The following day we meandered through some rural towns, including Childers. You may remember it was here in 2000 that the backpackers burnt down. We visited the memorial in the remains, which has been turned into an art gallery. Leaving in a sombre mood, after reading about the victims lives and unfulfilled plans, it was a little surreal to be ‘accosted’ by a local homeless man. He seemed very intelligent, but did he ever stop to draw breath? He also looked like the person who could have started the fire.....
A little down the road, I felt peckish. Dave pulled over, I jumped in the ‘house’ and chopped up some pineapple- sweet and juicy and only 49 cents! We soon arrived at our next destination- The Town of 1770 (its real name). 1770 is the second place (after Botany Bay) that Captain Cook landed after being seduced by its beauty. Can you guess what year this happened?



Captain Cook landed here, 1770

1770 and the neighbouring Agnes Waters are indeed beautiful, similar to what an untouched Manly peninsula may once have looked. The town has a drowsy feel, the glittering sun shining a sleepy warmth. It is as if time has stood still, the new beachfront developments looking very out of place with the FJ Holdens and ‘old codgers’.



Cairn to commemorate Captain Cook

After walking a few nature trails, we stopped off at the local art gallery. Not sure if I would call most of it ‘art’, but they did have a baby joey they were looking after. His mother was road kill. Stuffed safely in his pouch, ‘Joey’ looked very content as he sucked his thumb. (It is true joeys do suck their thumbs, or rather their dual clawed claw that they use for grooming). Given that we were in an area steeped in history, we decided it may well be worth a visit to the local museum. Quaint is the word that springs to mind here. The museum is an eclectic mix of bits and pieces locals have collected from the local area and on their travels. The local school has also made many a diorama..... But the piece d resistance was a 65 year old orange. It has been lovingly kept for all those years, through each stage of mould.... If you want to know what it looks like, you will just have to visit the Museum at Agnes Waters.....


We are currently staying 20kms south of Gladstone. This ‘resort’ is complete with a jumping balloon, like a big reverse trampoline, which seemed to beckon Dave and I. Dave had trouble getting on, as I kept bouncing him off.... he may have forgotten I was a master trampoliner in my day. We also have the luxury of a herb garden, for us to pick from as we wish, and of course a pool- very nice after a hard day sightseeing and fishing. Alas, no barra for dinner tonight, after equipping Dave with a new rod, reel and lures, all we managed to catch was a desire for a swim to cool off.
Tomorrow we are heading towards Rockhampton, and are tossing up the idea of trying out some ‘free camping’- mmm..... must be sure to have a long hot shower in the morning!

Where the wild things are

As Dave becomes trim and toned, I went on a search for a real whale. We sailed the waters of Hervey Bay on the last day of the season. Someone obviously forgot to tell the whales that the season was coming to a close, as we were greeted by a number of humpback whales. One new Mum was obviously very proud of her offspring (even though he had been poked with the ugly stick), and encouraged him to come right up to the boat. Mum rested underwater as bub layed across her vast belly to check us all out. He must have reported back that we were worth the view. Mum surfaced to breathe, her breath permeating the air with the scent of 3 day old anchovies.


The day progressed with more whale sightings, and some amazing displays- jumping out of the water, breaching, tail slapping, and of course calves coming up to check us out. The crew took footage of the day, but we decided not to buy a copy. However, earlier in the day a crew member had accidently spilt hot water down my back, and as an apology I was given two DVD’s- one from our day and a generic version.
Back at camp, we got ready to depart for Fraser Island the next day. Storing our ‘home’, packing our 4WD and ensuring we had food supplies for the 4 days.
The barge across only took half an hour and we soon landed our wheels on the world’s largest sand island (and boy doesn’t the sand penetrate everything). Knowing Fraser Island is on the world Heritage list, I was a little perplexed to see many introduced plants and weeds along the very bumpy track. Our (primitive) resort was also landscaped with ‘non natives’, and I was horrified to see the bar serving drinks in plastic cups with plastic straws (not to mention disco lights and blaring 80’s music at 5.30pm). Were we misled that this was a unique, unspoilt island? However, as I learnt more, I began to accept the introduced plants as part of the history of this island, leading to the unique ecosystem. After all, the dingo, for which Fraser is so famous, is also really an introduced species.
Fraser certainly is isolated. This is evidenced by two main factors- the wildlife encounters and ‘non’ availability of medical/ mechanical assistance. Arriving at a designated walk after driving along the endless beach, I followed Dave as we walked deeper into Fraser’s sandy forest interior. Dave often listens to his radio as we walk (tuned into his beloved ABC of course), and I thought they must have been playing some Irish music, as I watched what can only be described as some sort of jig, while having an epileptic fit. It turns out that a King Brown snake was a mere few millimetres from Dave’s toes. The snake was obviously scared by his ‘dancing’ display and promptly slithered off into the bush. Dave was a little shaken, and therefore the photos of the snake are a little blurred. With that sort of reality check, we decided it was better to have our first aid kit in the car, instead of back in our room. It certainly would have come in handy when I sliced the top of my toe later (it is healing nicely).
As the sun began to set, Dave took advantage of the framing light to take some shots. Wary of vehicles driving along the beach, he nestled in the sand dunes, sitting still taking in the serenity. His trance like state only broken by the sound of sniffing. Curious as to what could be making this noise Dave turned to be face to face with a dingo. The dog was patting distance, but once Dave stood and asserted his authority the dingo took off in search of another baby....



We were yet to have more animal encounters, but none that got the adrenalin racing. The most spectacular were the turtles. I happened to glance out the window, just at the right time to see a turtle on the waters edge. We stopped the car to get some up close shots, only to discover it was actually two turtles, entwined in an ‘intimate’ embrace. They had obviously got caught up in the heat of the moment, not realising they had been washed ashore. Was it wrong to watch? Oh well, it was just too amazing not to. The waves washed over them until the inevitable happened and they were both flipped onto their backs. The female soon righted herself, with the help of an incoming wave and took off quick. I don’t blame her- he certainly was a ‘big boy’. We then watched as the male flapped and whaled in distress as he could not right himself. We were conscious of not interfering, but I said I would not leave until I saw him safely back in the ocean. It became distressing for us to, especially gaining eye contact. His pupils dilated and consumed with fear. He looked so vulnerable and helpless. It seemed an eternity later, when we decided Dave should lend a helping flipper, but as he approached the turtle finally righted himself and slowly swam out to safety.

Mating turtles, Fraser Island


The turtle was not to be our only good deed for the day. Leaving the beach, we took off for a scenic drive on one of the inland tracks. Track conjures up the image of a dirt road, perhaps narrow in places, perhaps with a few holes. Let me tell you the inland ‘tracks’ are serious 4WD territory. As I was bounced about, I wished I had put my support bra on. It was easier to go with the rhythm rather than stiffen, but after 4 days I certainly have had enough of 4WD driving! 10km’s can take up to half an hour to cover, as you negotiate the terrain. Finally arriving at one of the perched inland lakes, a German tourist came over asking if we had mobile coverage. The battery in their vehicle had discharged the day before along another track. They had walked over 7 km’s back to their camp, near the lake, after getting lost. They had encountered some other people, but no one with mobile coverage, or that could help. My phone had limited coverage- one of the only ones on the island to do so, and I managed to call for assistance. The local police asked a few questions, and I acted as translator between the distressed German and the other end of the line. They were so relieved to know help was on its way, even if they did have to wait a few hours.
It was time for us to relax and we set up on the shores of Lake Boomanjin. Laying on my towel, I soon sank into the soft sand, fine as talcum powder and as pure white as the first snow. The water was crystal clear and soon washed away any stress from the day. Magical. Pure nature in her unspoilt glory.

Lake Boomanjin

As the days passed on the island, our 4WD and beach driving skills gained in confidence. We were soon trekking further up the beach, racing the tides to see sights such as the Maheno shipwreck and Eli Creek- were we floated along the creek all the way out to sea. But nothing can prepare you for a hidden washout on the beach, as we discovered too late. We became airborne, if for only a brief second and braced for the landing. Nothing compared to the bounce of some of the inland tracks and we were up for it again.............
I could talk about Fraser’s beauty and experiences more, but I shall leave it for you to discover, as some of you no doubt already have. We are off further north tomorrow and looking forward to some restful days after the experience of Fraser.

Home is where the heart is

I’m sure all of you stayed in caravan parks as kids- scorching summer days, cramped sites, not a blade of grass in sight, with the amenities block half a kilometre away. Once you had walked that 500 metres, you were greeted with a toilet that was in urgent need of repair and thongs a must while showering.
I am happy to report that caravan parks have come along way since those heady days. Perhaps we have to thank the Grey Nomads, or perhaps we now live in age where we expect more. I have likened our residences to a resort. Each caravan park so far has boasted superior grounds and facilities. The amenities clean and modern, the grounds landscaped, complete with pool, tennis court, recreation room and some even mini golf! The ‘camp kitchens’ mostly contain a microwave- very handy to reheat leftovers when we are knackered from a day of exploring.
I don’t expect all our stays to be in such luxurious surrounds, some will be a tad more basic- like our current abode in Hervey Bay. I’m still not quite sure what to make of Hervey Bay. As we drove along the Esplanade, the beachfront parks, shops and dining options were certainly very inviting. It was just the people looked a little on the ‘welfare’ side of life. Any negativity was soon displaced though as we set up camp a mere 20 metres from the beach. As if on cue two ducks (Black Pacific Ducks according to my ‘bird book’) flew in to greet me. They obviously get fed by some campers, as they waddled right up to me, wagging their tails as any friendly dog would. I love ducks, so I was sold.
Hervey Bay is the whale watching capital of Australia, and after seeing photos our neighbour took while on tour, we have now booked. Tomorrow morn

Mackay pier

we get picked up ‘out the front’ for a day on the M.V Mikat- a 20 metre catamaran. Tomorrow is actually the last day of the season, but we are guaranteed sightings of mighty humpback whales and their calves. Hopefully we will have some amazing photos to post very soon!
There is certainly much to offer in this region, and Monday will see us take off to explore the world’s largest sand island- Fraser Island. Dave will get to engage 4WD once again, as we explore the unending wilderness. We are leaving our ‘home’ on the mainland and will enjoy 3 nights in a ‘real resort’.
Hervey Bay is growing on me, she certainly is beautiful- as I type now, I am looking out to sea, watching the sun set creating a glittering display across the water. I smile at Dave, lost in a sea of love, happy that we get to share these amazing experiences together, no matter where we are.



Pic 1 above: Leisa & Mary Poppins at Maryborough Pic 2 above: 'Sausage Tree' (native to Mozambique)- click to enlarge

Sun Worshippers

Bearded Dragon

Was it the ancient Mayans that worshipped the sun? Living a ‘primitive’ life I can understand why some primitive cultures worshipped and made a deity of such. I must not complain that the Sunshine Coast has been far from such though. We have had two glorious days, where we set up on Noosa Beach at 9am and left late in the afternoon. The exhaustive days filled with reading a juicy novel, swimming in the aqua jewelled ocean and dining on fresh tropical fruits.
However, the remainder of our week here in Noosa has been overcast or raining, and by rain I mean flooding rains. Our camper has water views- well we are surrounded by a lake, it is just not meant to be there.

Flooded campsite, Noosa

Yesterday not being

‘beach weather’, we set off for a walk in the National Park. We have heard that damp weather makes the wildlife frisky, and we were not disappointed. Along our coastal walk, while we feasted on the magnificent views, we were joined by many bush turkeys, goannas, lace monitors, bearded dragons and a carpet python. The walk twisted and turned away from the coast and we were soon in a rainforest, one eye kept out for koalas, the other on the ever present goannas (I have never seen so many on one walk!). Alas no koalas, but as the thunder started to roar we were being watched by a possum. I’m not sure why he ventured so close to us, perhaps he was unwell, or perhaps he was a little scared of the noise the from the gods above.
After the very enjoyable 7km walk, we stopped off for a coffee and tapas on our way back to camp. Along the way we both commented on how much it must have rained- given the flooding on the roadside. We had been cocooned in the rainforest during the storm and it only managed a few raindrops upon our heads. Back at camp, we saw the destruction this storm had caused- our new lake and neighbours mopping up. We are now confident our camper can withstand a cyclone, however our side awning had filled up with water and was a little bent out of shape. Nothing major though. The storm headed south and in her rage delayed the some ‘soccer game’ in Brisbane.
This morning we awoke to... you guessed it..... RAIN! I must say though it is not dampening our spirits, infact this is the stuff dreams are made of- knowing everyone back in Sydney is battling the rat race while I sip my cup of tea in bed, enjoying my book and looking out the sunroof window to watch the rain fall from above. But, what do you do on a rainy day (besides stay in bed)- go on a 4WD of course! After checking out Boreen Point (really good looking pub here), Pomona (bought Dave a pair of shorts for $3.50 in the Lifeline store), Kin Kin (blink and you will miss it), we checked out Tin Can Bay (great spot for keen fishermen and dolphin lovers- you can hand feed wild dolphins for free) and ended at Rainbow Beach- gateway to Fraser Island. It was time to go off road.
4WD engaged we took off down the ‘beaten track’. I got into the rhythm, bouncing about the cabin, before the road seemed to smooth out and the forest became dense. Emerging from a bend we discovered ourselves in one of nature’s gifts- a tropical rainforest. The further we drove on the more entranced we became, dwarfed by towering trees, consumed with ferns and lush green vines. The vegetation then began to thin and we soon landed on the beach. A first for both Dave and I, the feeling of driving along golden sand

Rainbow Beach

with the ocean mere centimetres away was truly invigorating. The grey skies and turbulent waves crashing beside us only heightened the experience, as we drove on Teewah Beach passing the coloured sands and many keen beach campers. I took over control of our vehicle and revelled in the freedom, just Dave, me and a vast ocean. Perhaps it was not the best time for my second ‘go’ of driving- the weather closed in and the beach gave way to rivulets and soft sand. All under control, but I was glad to hand the reins back............
Tomorrow we head further up the coast and hope sun awaits us!

CRIKEY!!!

We all have childhood memories, some clouded over the years and some romanticised having been viewed through a child’s starry eyes. Having been to the Sunshine Coast last time over 30 years ago, my memories consist of balmy days with extended family, visiting the many attractions this region has to offer. As a little girl, I went to the Big Pineapple- the memory is hazy, but I do remember it been a sunny day abuzz with people, plenty of things to see and do, topped off with a Pineapple Sundae and a little purse that Mum bought me in the shape of a pineapple. This QLD was a great state!
Studying the map on our way to Noosa, I saw that the Big Pineapple was only a very short detour. Butterflies grew in my stomach as I was soon to be where I had experienced so much joy as a child. It sent me back to a happy place, one where I was safe with Mum and Dad on a family holiday. We pulled up in the carpark, the Big Pineapple in sight- even after all these years, it was still ‘big’. A smile stretched across my face.
However, as an adult, I guess we see things through different eyes. I would like to suggest to one and all- NEVER go back to your childhood. Thirty odd years have not been kind to the Big Pineapple. The building smelt of tourist decay,

The Big Pineapple, still big compared to me, but not so awesome....

the yellow paint giving off the sense of sour milk and not sunshine. Were once counters where filled with every ‘pineapple’ souvenir possible, they are now filled with cheap and very tacky items- most of which have nothing to do with pineapples. Not quite sure why you would want to buy a Nefertiti bust from here........... The only other visitors were a bus load of pensioners, sitting in silence eating ice cream and looking as sombre and decayed as their surrounds. But worst of all- there were no pineapple coasters to go with my Big Banana place mats! My quest will have to continue at the Big Cow. There were no pineapple shaped purses either....
It seems today’s tourist needs adrenalin and a touch of the exotic to be satisfied. Something that Australia Zoo certainly offers. I was very impressed with this zoo and rate it much higher than Taronga Zoo. Although not nearly as many animals as Taronga, the exhibits are much more ‘viewer friendly’ as are the animals! Perhaps because it was a cool, rainy day that the animals were active and seemed to revel in human interaction. I think I made David take 50 photos of me patting and playing with the kangaroos and wallabies. My favourite is the Eastern Grey, and I spent much time with a new friend I named Skippy.

The show in the Crocoseum was well worth the entry fee, with
Croc show, Australia Zoo

elephants, birds and of course crocs! Even the Koalas up here are cuter than their southern cousins- they are smaller and lighter in colour. I also got to make

Me and Skip, Australia Zoo

a new friend with Kenny the Koala too. After a fun filled day we arrived in Noosa, took a walk down Hastings Street and enjoyed a glass of fine wine in a Parisian style cafe. As we ambled along the beachside boardwalk, then past the shops spruiking pretty dresses and trinkets, I got a good feeling we are going to enjoy it here- even if it is raining and predicted to do so for the next few days!

Go Manly

Ahh, we have left the city and are once again enjoying life by the seaside on Bribie Island. Whilst, we have had sunny days, it is a little frustrating to have 35 degree days when there is no beach in sight and now we have cooler weather. But Brisbane was certainly kind to us- or rather our hosts- Mark & Kirrily.
Mark is a pilot in the Air Force (a cute boy in uniform), and Dave had the enviable pleasure of attending the Amberley Air Show with him. While the girls took off scouting antique shops, the boys braved the crowds and apparently saw some amazing air displays. Been with Mark was great as Dave got a real behind the scenes look at the base and girls with very short skirts I hear!
Amberley Air Show

Then it was home to watch my beloved Manly WIN the 2008 Premiership. I still can’t believe after years of been either out at the game, or at ‘Kel & Dean’s Grand final BBQ’ that I was in Brisbane for this momentous occasion. I was a little emotional as I know how much my belated father loved Manly, and this would have been a special day for him. So there I sat watching the Grand Final on a TV the size of a postage stamp, surrounded by Queenslanders and AFL fans. To amuse myself and feel the NRL spirit I had a text rally with Peter Wynn (Parra player in the 80’s). I suggested the win made up for 82 & 83 (when Parra won, oohhhh how we hated them). He didn’t seem to agree. I had tears of joy, he claims to have had tears of blood.
All over for another year now, and life goes on. Today we explored the Eumundi Markets- the markets are sensational, however I felt that Dr Who had picked me up in his tardis and transported me to peak hour Sydney (no we haven’t been eating mushrooms). As far as the eye could see there where cars parked in every street, park and crevice imaginable. Who would have thought that there were that many other unemployed nomads out there (it is no longer school hols here). We were really taken aback by the sheer number of people. I saw many, many, many things that I would have loved to have bought, but with a home the size of an amoeba it is just not possible. Although I did still manage to give the credit card a work out.
After a visit to the Buderim Ginger Factory at Yandina, we took in the beauty of the Glasshouse Mountains. How did Flinders manage to scale these beasts with his men?

Glasshouse Mountains

The 800m walk at the lookout was enough for me. He probably got lost and trudged on for hours I suspect- no women would have been about to ask for directions...........


Glasshouse Mountains

Now back at ‘home’ we are been serenaded by a flock of Crows. Or rather been screeched at every dusk and dawn. Apparently Crows don’t attack people, but we watch as they swoop on passers by. We have been told the Crows landed two people in hospital last week, with head injuries. We are parked quite close to their tree, but so far they have left us alone. Perhaps they know we are ‘Twitchers’, or perhaps they feel I am being hassled enough by the Bush Turkeys. I swear they have followed me from Sawtell- they were even swarms of them at Graceville (Brisbane).
Off for a day at the beach on Thursday and Australia Zoo on Friday.

I'm a Sydney Girl

I have to admit that I am not that much enamoured with Brisbane. Having taken the ferry down the river, traipsed through New Farm, Fortitude Valley and Queen Street, it

Dave has let himself go....

really seems that Brisbane is lacking a ‘vibe’. The riverbanks are devoid of cafes, bars and atmosphere. The city is somewhere bare, even in school holiday time, and the shopping strips are rather ‘short’. I have heard Brisbane referred to as a ‘big country town’- perhaps Dave has heard this too- he has taken to walking around town in a cowboy hat and giving me a wink cowboy style. With his uncut hair and sculptured facial fuzz, he looks like a different guy too!

However, it is not all bad. Kirrily, Dave and I took off to Mt Tambourine on Monday. The hinterland regions of NSW and QLD are some of our favourite areas. As we climbed further up the mountain, the scenery became more beautiful. We picked up our friend Roland, who moved here 4 weeks ago, and took off for a walk to the falls. After the exercise Roland took us to ‘The polish Place’. Now this is truly how a Monday should be spent- the view from ‘The polish Place’

Mt Tambourine, Dave, Kiz, me and Roland

is breathtaking. As far as the eye can see is a plentiful valley, rimmed by a mountain range. As we sipped our 600mL polish beer we watched lorikeets playing above and strong muscular horses below.


Roland then took us to a pub on the other side of the road, and we now had a view as far as the coast, breathtaking in its own right. The St Bernard Hotel,

View from Mt Tambourine to the Gold Coast

came complete with Leo- the resident St Bernard, to say he is huge is an understatement!! Definitely much bigger than Kirrily & Marks dogs...........
Aaah- "Mika" and "Razu". Both are Japansese hunting dogs- Shiba’s. Mika has issues- perhaps she hasn’t gotten over starting life living in (Fountain Gate) Forest Lake . She needs some serious therapy- or Prozac. Razu is still only a puppy, and very cute. He has developed a fetish for my feet, and any item associated with my feet. I have bought new slippers, which are also to his liking. It is so hard to be angry with one so cute, so as he chews my feet, I just smile. At least Kirrily is better behaved, in fact I recommend this ‘accommodation’ to anyone- cups of tea in bed in the morning, a glass

Kiz and Razu

of wine and home cooked dinner of an evening.
Tomorrow Kiz, Dave, Roland and I are off for a spot of tennis, followed by lunch- how else should a Friday be spent? Mark is back from Hawaii on Saturday, so we will have a few days with him and Kiz before we depart on Tuesday for Bribie Island.