Saturday, August 8, 2009

The Big Bang

Life is never dull when Mum and our friend Beryl are in town. They had not been in Broome 5 minutes and already a fit young man was in their bedroom.....
Being the busiest week here in Broome , no taxis where available to give them a ride from the airport. Never fear the above said young man was on hand to give these two ‘old ladies’ a lift and carry their bags into the apartment. Dave and I were already making use of the washing machine in the apartment and wondered who this young man was!

Mum and I on the apartment balcony

After such a long plane ride, the next morning, we ventured out for a walking tour of Broome. Passing a group of aboriginal ladies sitting under the shade of a tree, Mum engaged in conversation, but when they started calling her ‘Sista’, we decided to move her on. Broome was built on the pearl industry and much history abounds, we soaked up the sights of Town beach, but after a long walk lunch was very welcomed.
The sandy red, yellow and orange rock cliffs of Gantheaume Point, are home to many 120 million year old fossils.

Leisa, Heather, Beryl at Gantheaume Point

It is no wonder then that huge dinosaur footprints have been found here. Although now mostly under water, replica casts have been made for you to discover on the cliff top. The point is also home to the lighthouse. Back in the 1920’s the lighthouse keeper lived here with his arthritic wife, Anastasia. To soothe her ailments he concreted a large rock pool, for her to sit in and gaze out to sea.
Mum in Anastasia's pool (no there is no water in it now)


We got to enjoy our own sea gazing aboard the Intombi- an original pearl lugger. Sailing the aquamarine waters off Cable Beach, we walked the same decks as the divers who sought their fortunes over 100 years ago. As we watched the magical hues of a Kimberley sunset a mother and calf whale entertained us frolicking nearby. We had heard that Broome was overdeveloped, however this could not be further from the truth. Where else would the coach drive onto the beach, so you could then get into a tender to board a pearl lugger.
Aboard Intombi

We are still in croc country, however not as abundant as further north. So to see these mighty creatures it was off to the Malcolm Douglas Wildlife Park. Even though this is the busiest week in Broome, there were not many other tourists around, and so we got to play with the crocodiles. Yes, you read right- we played with the big menacing Saltwater crocs! Kept in pens as close to natural as possible, these crocs wallow in murky waters, often not visible. However, throw a ball attached to a long piece of string near his billabong and you soon know he is definitely there.

Fighting crocs at feeding time

Lunging towards this ‘intruder’ you can certainly imagine how terrifying an attack would be. My favourite memory of the week is Beryl playing tug-a-war with a huge croc. After all that play it was feeding time. Stand well clear, as the two males fight over a piece of barra. It was snapping jaws and a menacing growls, the loser coming away with a bloodied mouth.

Mum and cute little croc

Cultured pearls are such an important part of Broome, so it was only fitting that we learnt more (and checked out the best to buy). Willie Creek Pearl Farm is 38 kilometres from Broome, so we hopped into Mum and Beryl’s rental 4WD to travel along the red dirt road, which then turned into the white sandy tidal mudflats. Although not far from Broome, you really feel you are in the middle of nowhere, before reaching the farm. We learnt about the intricate process of cultured pearling, including seeding a live oyster shell. After some damper, it was then aboard the boat to see pearl panels suspended in the creek and a chance to check out the native fauna. However, it was the azure colour of the pristine water that had us spellbound.

Pearl nets, Willie Creek

After buying one of everything in the showroom, we decided to continue along the red dirt road to Quondong Point. Untouched by man, we made ourselves comfortable on one of the rock ‘lounges’ to enjoy a picnic lunch. Looking out to sea we were rewarded with some whales slapping their flippers, making a large splash. It was very relaxing sitting on the beach watching the whales play.
Just as well we were all feeling so calm as the drive back home, took us past a family that had broken down. Stopping to check if they needed assistance, we were soon glad we had. For further down the road our hire car started to not sound right and steering was not so good. It was evident that we had blown a tyre, the rubber having perished while travelling at 110km’s an hour. Our ‘friends’ behind now stopped for us and assisted us on our way (Dave was rather shaken up, while trying to keep the car on the road).

Our shredded tyre

With all the excitement of the day, that evening we made our way to Cable Beach to watch the camels saunter along as the sun set.

Leisa, Beryl, Heather on Cable Beach

We had a relaxing last day together of lunch followed by a tour at Pearl Luggers. It was here we learnt more about the pearling history, tasted pearl meat (yuk) and viewed artefacts from the early perilous days of deep sea pearl diving. That evening we perused the Town Beach Markets before taking in the ‘Staircase to the Moon’. This natural phenomenon is caused by the rising of the full moon reflecting off the exposed mudflats at extremely low tide, creating an optical illusion of stairs reaching to the moon.

Mum and I, Staircase to the Moon (is a little hard to photograph)


We thoroughly enjoyed our ‘guests’ for a week in Broome, we got to eat out, but also enjoyed some of Beryl’s home cooking, including shortbread. We are now back to fending for ourselves and relaxing on Cable Beach.

No comments: