The East Macdonnell Ranges are not as frequented by tourists, but still home to some great spots. We soon arrived at Emily Gap and Jessie Gap, which both display aboriginal rock art from the caterpillar dreamtime. However, home for the night was a camp at Trephina Gorge.
Trephina Gorge
We did enjoy a walk around the rim of the gorge and yes, it was all very interesting, but both Dave and I were a little ‘gorged out’. You can have too much of a good thing.
So off north it was, crossing over the Tropic of Capricorn.
Crossing the Tropic of Capricorn
However, we were still very much in the outback, with the tropical climate a few hundred kilometres away yet. The Stuart Highway, which runs from Adelaide to Darwin, passes through some very remote countryside. Asthe sun beat down from above, the temperature rose. With nothing for miles between roadhouses, except for memorials to a few dead people (no disrespect intended), termite mounds and abandoned cars (if the aborigines run out of fuel with no funds for more, the car is simply left where it stopped), we certainly noticed the change in vegetation as the climate changed.
Travelling around 500 kilometres per day, we stopped at most of the roadhouses to stretch our legs and yack to the eccentric locals. With tourist dollars vital, many stops have a drawcard, such as the giant Anmatjere (aboriginal) man at Aileron. Ti Tree was the next roadhouse stop on the map, and we had planned to spend the night. Servicing many aboriginal communities in outlying areas, the place seemed to have a desolate feel about it, so we decided to push on.
Barrow Creek Pub
Loading the CD player with some dance tunes, we turned up the volume and funked our way to Barrow Creek. Built the same year as the Sydney Harbour Bridge, the Barrow Creek Pub is also a famous landmark (and not just because it is near the scene of the Falconio murder). In the tradition of shearers who wrote their name on a banknote and pinned it to the wall to ensure they could afford a drink when next they came through, travellers have left all sorts of items all over the walls, including bank notes.
Ten kilometres up the road we drove over the bloodstain (all that has been found of Falconio), and past the bushes that Joanne Lees hid in. Low lying bushes, were now dotting the countryside, a change from grasses, saltbush and granite outcrops of the previous few hundred miles.
Wycliffe Well Roadhouse.... and little green men
With not much else to entertain the eye, it is easy to get the imagination going. Wycliffe Well is one of the more legendary stops along the highway. Famous for documented UFO sightings, this roadhouse is decorated with alien figures and newspaper UFO reports. Dave said it was all a croc, however I think he was worried about a little green man encounter, as we continued on to the Devils Marbles to set up camp.
Our campsite location, Devils Marbles
These massive boulders of granite are precariously balanced on top of one another and look as if they could easily fall. Home for the night was at the base of these sacred boulders. We were both glad to have pushed on and stayed here for the night. As the sun rose in the morning the Devils Marbles glowed with a fiery intensity, and gave us some great photos. Here again, a dingo seemed to take a liking to me and provided an escort each time I ventured to the toilet.
Strongman Dave, Devils Marbles
Similar to Uluru, a sense of peace and tranquillity pervades the Devils Marbles, so we took time to soak up the ancient spirit with a walk, before heading off on the road again.
We had been warned not to stay in Tennant Creek and that the town with its boarded up windows and security screens, had an air of despair about it. We didn’t feel the town was that bad, but we did not stay for the night. Although, we did take the time to visit the Nyinkka Nyunyu Cultural Centre. The Cultural Centre was informative, with good story telling, however we felt overpriced. The mood was further spoilt by the cafe attached serving ‘authentic’ thai food.
Original homestead, Banka Banka
Our camp for the night was to be Banka Banka- part of the Kidman Cattle Station. This place is a pure oasis. Perched on a natural spring, we were told to use as much water as we wanted. After dust, dirt and water restrictions this was heaven. Our spot was right under a Boab tree, on the soft green grass. Aaaaahh. Banka Banka is the oldest pastoral lease in the NT (initially owned by the Bank of NSW), and the original homestead still stands. As the evening cooled we were treated to a very entertaining slide show about the station- our hosts displaying a raw and funny sense of humour!
With many underground springs the vegetation became taller, thicker and greener. Many wattle bushes were now lining the roadside and as we pulled into Newcastle Waters, it also marked the cut off point of Central Australia. We were now in the Top End, and a more tropical environment.
Newcastle Waters is a 1930’s droving town. As road trains have replaced the need for drovers the town has been abandoned, with only a couple of dwellings still in use. However, the National Trust has purchased a few of the historic buildings and you can take yourself through the old store and pub, complete with artefacts.
We were still getting used to seeing so much water, but it was welcomed with the temperature now commensurate with the tropics. The famous Daly Waters Pub, a popular icon, provided our next pit stop. The pub’s bar and walls are decorated in bras, undies and thongs as well as many other knick knacks. You could spend all day just looking at the walls!
Daly Waters Pub
As the clock ticked 5pm we pulled into the Elsey National Park at Mataranka. This National Park was once part of the Elsey Station made famous by Jeannie Gunn’s We of the Never Never. The remainder of the station is still in use, however the deeds have been handed over to the traditional Mangarayi owners.
We were now certainly closer to the streamy tropics. Palm trees lined the road and river banks, and we broke out the shorts and singlets. After setting up camp, there was only one thing to do- jump in the river and cool off. Such as strange concept at 5.30pm nearing in winter! This area is worth a visit. The National Park has many great short or long walks, each with its own highlight- relics of the Elsey Station, or a relaxing vista of palm trees dotting the crystal clear, spring water creek. But, the main highlight here is the thermal pools. At a temperature of 34 degrees, they are not too hot. We have spent much lazy time floating in the clear spring water dappled by the filtered light of a palm leaf.
Mataranka Thermal Pool, (yes that is me)Dave at Bitter Springs Thermal Pool
The Elsey homestead, recreated for the We of the Never Never movie, now stands near the thermal pools and is still set up as a home. Having seen the movie with my Mum and Grandma, it was fun to see the country, as well as the homestead and grave sites. However, it is amusing to note that Jeannie only lived on Elsey Station for less than a year, due to her husband’s death.
Elsey Homestead, We of the Never Never
Spot the odd one out- cast of We of the Never Never
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