Sunday, May 3, 2009

Journey to the centre

As we slowly continue our journey towards the centre of Australia, we are encountering many towns worthy of note. We enjoyed a nights rest in Robe, on the south coast of South Australia. This seaside town is the site where many Chinese landed. The Chinese chose to land here, and then walk the many kilometres to the Victorian goldfields. They chose to embark here in order to avoid the Victorian tax imposed on arrivals. Many did not make it to the goldfields; they either perished or established a new life in South Australia. Robe still has many working buildings from its 1846 beginnings, along with the remains of the gaol.

The remains of Robe Gaol. Our home is in the background

As the sun shone brightly- yeah no more rain- we headed towards the wetlands of the Coorong. No trip to the Coorong is complete without stopping to see Larry the Lobster at Kingston. Larry was ordered from Italy in the 1970’s, and was to proudly sit atop a seafood diner. Alas, a mix up between imperial and decimal measurements meant Larry arrived a few times larger than expected! Still, he is a great tourist attraction and the Grandfather of all things ‘big’ in Australia.

Larry the Lobster, Kingston

There has been much talk about the lack of water flowing to the Coorong, with the Murray River being tapped into so readily downstream. However, the recent rain had certainly breathed life into this region. Pools of water formed in previous dry lagoons and the water birds were in abundance. The Coorong is where the movie Storm Boy (remember My Percival the pelican) was filmed. Meningie, on the shores of Lake Albert, is where we stayed for the night, and we certainly go to meet many Mr Percivals.

Botanic Gardens, Adelaide

Adelaide is the capital of South Australia, but still a quaint ‘town’. Where else could you check into a caravan park a mere 10 minutes walk to the main street of the city! The walk took you through the Botanic Gardens, which I rate as world class. We then joined a guided tour in the Art Gallery and were truly impressed with many of the acquisitions. Next stop was Rundle Mall, the heart of the city. It is good to see the sense of humour here- the resident bronze pig sculptures had had face masks put on them (in reference to swine flu).

Leisa and Horatio - sans mask

The Barossa is a must for all visitors, and with many cheap cellar door deals to be had, the camper is a bit more weighted down than when we arrived. There are many characters to be found in all wine regions and Dave and I certainly had our fair share. I had been given a cheese and wine trail gift pack for Christmas a couple of years ago. Valid at wine regions all over Australia, you pick up a cheese hamper from a selected gourmet food store and then follow the chosen winery trail. Along the way you then sample wines matched to the goodies in your hamper. The concept of this is very good, but in practice it has not turned out to be a hit with the wineries (we tend to agree). It was very disliked by our first stop, he felt a mouthful of wine does not allow you to really enjoy the delights of the hamper. Therefore, he proceeded to pour us a full glass of wine and set us up at a table in order to enjoy ourselves! He was a real character and as we sipped glasses of his wine, gratis, we all got chatting. It turned out that Dave’s 3 unit economics teacher, who moved to the Barossa, was a mate of our new found friend. He telephoned, but Bob McLean did not answer. Never fear, he never ventures far, so armed with directions to his winery, we planned a visit for the end of our day.
Throughout the day, we enjoyed many good wines and of course Maggie Beers Farm Shop. Both big fans of the Cook & the Chef (ABC Wednesday nights) we were very excited to sample the culinary magic dished up. With the produce at a very reasonable price, we stocked up, as well as enjoying a picnic meal overlooking the dam.

Maggie Beers, The Barossa

With the day drawing to a close, we set off to visit Bob McLean. The directions got us there no problem, but McLeans Winery is not signposted or really open to the public. From a torrent of barking dogs, out walked Bob. This Bob McLean had also lived in Sydney, but alas, he was not the Bob McLean that was once Dave’s high school teacher. We prepared to say our goodbyes, but he would have none of it. The door to the shed (AKA winery) was opened and it was not until nearly an hour later we parted company. Many stories and good wine flowed. He is now going to have some fun confirming that he was once an economic teacher........

Teagan and Jessie

The Barossa was not our only good company and good wine encounter. Wayne and Tracey, friends from Sydney, who have moved back to Adelaide, invited us to stay for dinner and the comforts of a house. Wayne showcased his own culinary magic and cooked us up a lasagne, while Trace opened some VERY good wine from their cellar. Five year old daughter Teagan, took much delight in taking us down to the cellar, and showing us around the house. The house is a recent purchase, and will be the family home for many years to come. Teagan, who has always wanted a dog, was now lucky enough to have her own puppy. Jessie, is just the cutest. A cross Golden Retriever and Poodle (Groodle), she has a gentle nature and I’m sure will get away with murder in the months ahead. But, as we wish to move further north, we left the 4 week old bathroom behind (so new.... so clean....). We will be back to visit them again in the spring though.

THE bank vault at Snowtown... scene of the bodies in the barrels. Enroute to Port Pirie


Our journey continued to Port Pirie, another quaint port town. Awaking to a warm day (finally out of jeans and jumpers) Dave could hear opera music. A local guy has been signing opera every morning for years at the shoreline. Channel 7 had only recently discovered him and were filming for the news that evening.
Our stays have really only been overnight, but we will be back to South Australia to discover her other quirks in the spring. Tonight we are bedding down at Port Augusta, after a day exploring Mt Remarkable National Park.

Emu at Mt Remarkable National Park, we actually had many join our walk!

As the gateway to the Outback we have stocked up on supplies, fuel, water and plastic bags. South Australia went plastic bag free as of today, and it is illegal for a shopkeeper to provide you with such. With a 5 or 10 cent refund given for bottles and cans, South Australia is a pretty green state.
Baroota Homestead ruins, Mt Remarkable National Park

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