The power and the passion

Made it to the NT!

Neither words nor photos can truly express the awesome power of Uluru. The ‘rock’ is far bigger than expectations and seems to draw you in to her spirit. As you drive closer the rock becomes alive, her many drainage lines appearing as arms reaching out to pull you in. She devours the sky, sucking the very life out of all that is near. Once in her vortex you become mesmerized by what can only be described as her awesome presence. Since a young girl I have wanted to visit Ayres Rock (as it was called back then) and seeing her for the first time was an emotional experience. I was here seeing the famous monolith. But this was not the only emotion that she made me feel.
Uluru- photos don't capture her true power

Dave and I set off to climb Uluru. We should have known from the beginning stages that the climb would not be easy. It starts off steep, a low chain rail to hold onto and assist your way. Taking it slowly, you climb halfway up her east side. The chain rail then stops, but she flattens out a little as you traverse east to her highest point.

A quarter of the way up

However, this path has many steep downhill verticals that are complimented with equally steep uphill ‘walls’. I had made it two thirds of the way and gave up. I simply could not scale the wall in front of me. I bid farewell to Dave and said I would wait for him. I felt defeated. I had wanted to conquer her for so long and had now failed. The tears came. Tears of frustration.
I was determined to not let her win. So again I tried to scale the wall. Down I slid, I simply could not reach any hand or foot holds to hang on. I slumped down. With a few calming breaths, I remembered the skills taught to me rock climbing in the Grampians. I studied the rock wall before me and worked out a path, I felt I could achieve. On the third attempt I made it!! My joy was to be short lived as I discovered an even bigger wall in front of me further on. Again, I took time to plan a path and finally made it to the top. I had done it. I was not the only one to cry atop Uluru. Many felt a similar frustration or sheer fright- it is a long way up, and a dangerous climb in parts. However, the view is amazing. Joining Dave we both looked to Kata Tjuta (the Olgas) in the distance and a vast plain that seems to go forever. Time was spent savouring the view, before we began the descent. Not as bad as expected, but boy was I glad when finally back on terra firma.

On top of Uluru- The Olgas in the distance

After recovering and some lunch, we took a walk to a special waterhole, home of Wanampi, an ancestral aboriginal watersnake. A rock shelter along the way gave us an insight into the rock art of Uluru. The walk around her base is just shy of 10 kilometres, but being totally flat lets you both enjoy the walk and the sight before you. This walk again reminds you of the enormous size and sheer power that is Uluru.
We also took the time to explore the 36 domes of Kata Tjuta (the Olgas), a 50 kilometre drive west of Uluru. The Valley of the Winds walk, listed as challenging was nothing compared to Uluru. Although stony underfoot, we ventured through the domes, into a valley and gorge, with some spectacular sights. The wind whipped past us in parts, and no doubt how this walk got its name!

Kata Tjuta (The Olgas). Note the headwear- a must in the NT

After 3 days, it was time to bid farewell to Uluru and her changing faces. At various times of the day, shadows and light can make her look very different.

Good bye Uluru

After days of long walks, we drove the relative short distance to Curtin Springs and free camped at the Roadhouse for the night. The resident emu (tame) took a liking to our herbs, so again we had to hide them in the car for the night.

Our emu friend, Curtain Springs

We would be taking the Mereenie Loop, which eventually led us to Alice Springs. However, Kings Canyon was next on our agenda.

On top of Kings Canyon



Kings Canyon involved another long, rocky walk to fully experience the chasm. During the 3 hour walk, the sheer red rock face soars over 100 metres, hiding prehistoric plants like the giant cycads. The Garden of Eden, a permanent water oasis provides refuge to many plant and bird species not seen before. It is truly a lost world. Coupled with layered sandstone domes (very funky rocks), it really does feel like a lost city!

Kings Canyon- this spot was in Priscilla, Queen of the Desert

Our first real dingo experience was also at Kings Canyon. We think she was a little tame, but she did like to sit with us of an evening, perhaps because everyone else shooed her away. However, we were told not to leave our shoes out at night.

Our dingo friend, Kings Canyon
The Mereenie loop is 93 kilometres of dirt road. Let me correct that- 93 kilometres of corrugations, dips, bumps and dust- all of which is known as ‘the NT massage’. For this ‘pleasure’ we had to obtain a permit, as we would be travelling across aboriginal land. Not many choose to take this route, due to the condition of the road, but it really was a slice of pristine wilderness. Vivid colours of red, yellow, green and blue abound and there was plenty of animal life. A dingo led the way for a while, and then we were joined by camels and wild brumbies. These are considered pests and evidence of a recent aerial cull meant the land was littered with the carcasses of both. Not pretty to see a horse obviously shot down while in the full stride of a gallop.
The land is flat, except for the occasional gorges and meteor craters. The most impressive crater is Gosse Bluff- at 20 kilometres wide it is twice the size of Uluru. The impact was devastating and for years afterwards the weather patterns were affected. Imagine the dust!! But for anyone travelling out here- here is a tip. Don’t bother with the very rough 4WD track to view inside the crater. Instead view the entire scene from Tylers Pass Lookout; it really is a spectacular sight.

Gosse Bluff from Tylers Pass Lookout

At last, we made it to Ormiston Gorge. It had been a rough road to here, so we bunkered down for a couple of nights. We were now in the West MacDonnell National Park, and both very impressed with the scenery on offer. Images of the outback conjure sparse plant life and dust. The reality is an ecosystem that has adapted to the seasons and the land is plentiful, although harsh. Victoria was much more of a dry dustbowl, than out here!

Ormiston Gorge

We should have remembered the advice not to leave our shoes out at night. Late one night we could hear the dingoes sniffing at our door. They were happily playing with our shoes. However, in the morning we simply retrieved them from the dry creek bed, with no real damage done. They are very naughty puppies! We both love the howling sound of the dingo- a chorus set off at dusk and dawn.

Glen Helen Gorge, near Ormiston Gorge

Refreshed we continued our journey to Alice Springs, stopping to see some of the tourist sights on the way. The Ochre Pits is where the desert aboriginal people mined for this natural mineral.

Ochre Pits

Used in paintings and ceremonial body decoration, it is one of a handful of aboriginal ochre sights in Australia. Therefore this valuable possession was traded with other tribes from far away.
Ellery Creek Big hole- very pretty spot for a swim