Water, water

Eating the Yabbie's caught from Katherine River


Since Mataranka we have noticed a distinct lack of flies, not that we are complaining however! It is certainly nice to be fly net free.
Arriving in Katherine, our camp turned out to be a few hundred metres from the Katherine Hot Springs. Again these were not really hot and provided a welcome dip to escape the heat. The locals also enjoyed cooling off here and Dave certainly proved a hit with the kids. At one stage he had an aboriginal child on each of his arms and one clinging to his neck.

Springvale Homestead


We will pass through Katherine again on our journey west, so we were able to relax a little. After a morning cooling off in the spring again, we set off for the historic Springvale Homestead. Arriving in time to join the free history talk, we found the stories of its being and the floods very interesting. The grounds also accommodate campers, and with a pool filled by a natural spring, we may just stay here on our return.
Of course the highlight out here is Nitmiluk National Park (formally Katherine Gorge National Park). Having been previously ‘gorged out’, we are happy to say this one is worth it! A long and hot, yet picturesque walk was rewarded with a swim in the gorge. We are certainly looking forward to a 3 gorge cruise we have planned for our next stay.
After 3 days in the town of Katherine, we moved on to camp in the Nitmiluk National Park at Leliyn (Edith Falls). This spot is paradise. Not far from the lush green camp sites is a large pandanus fringed plunge pool, at the base of Edith Falls. With the temperature soaring towards 34 degrees, the water was very inviting. Apparently 6- 8 freshwater crocodiles also live in this pool, however unlike their saltwater cousins, they leave humans alone and are no threat.
After a blissful night’s sleep, we set off on the Leliyn Trail, a 3 kilometre round trip, that climbs to the top of the escarpment and then down to the pools located at the top of the falls. The walk gives fantastic views of the river below. Taking a dip in the top pools, with their crystal clear water, is our idea of heaven, and it was hard to say goodbye.
Top Pool, Edith Falls



Edith Falls

The Top End provides such a diverse and beautiful array of destinations. George Daly Hot Springs was to be our next stop. Alas, the vibe here was not good. A cloud of contagious anxiety seemed to permeate the air. Being only a couple of hours from Darwin and a long weekend, people were setting up camp, trying to force themselves to have a good time, on this short break. However, as we sat back and watched many couples just seemed to be bickering, hot and flustered. The hot springs here are hot- between 40 and 60 degrees. The most popular spot was where the Douglas and Daly Rivers met, a merging of cool and hot water. With cool water rushing over my toes and hot water lapping against my back, I couldn’t help but think it felt as if someone had peed in the water. On checking though, no one else was around.....
Dave and I were pleased to move on to the Litchfield National Park, just south of Darwin. We had been warned how busy it would be and about the lack of accommodation. This was not to be the case. Pandanus Caravan Park was only a week old, and we were the only caravan. The amenities were set up like an ensuite, which normally are shared. However, with the run of the park, Dave and I had a private bathroom each.
The good vibes were back. The local publican had told us you were allowed to take an esky to the Buley Waterhole. Paradise was back. What better refreshment than an icy cold beer while sitting in a waterhole, the cascading water creating a spa effect on your back. Aaaaahhhhh.

Leisa cooling off with a beer at Buley Waterhole

Litchfield National Park is now one of our favourites. A great diversity of attractions, with many walks rewarded with a cool swim, usually at the base of some magnificent waterfall. Wangi Falls

We enjoyed every minute- including the magnetic termite mounds. Up to two metres in height, these mounds are all in a north- south orientation- the insect worlds version of Stonehenge. The Lost City looks like ruins of some ancient civilisation, however are actually sandstone blocks and pillars weathered by the elements.

The Lost City, Litchfield National Park

To get here was 4WD only, yet an easy ‘comfortable’ track. But, it is Wangi Falls we could have swum at all day. How does the water stay so clear, clean and crisp.