Where the wild things are

As Dave becomes trim and toned, I went on a search for a real whale. We sailed the waters of Hervey Bay on the last day of the season. Someone obviously forgot to tell the whales that the season was coming to a close, as we were greeted by a number of humpback whales. One new Mum was obviously very proud of her offspring (even though he had been poked with the ugly stick), and encouraged him to come right up to the boat. Mum rested underwater as bub layed across her vast belly to check us all out. He must have reported back that we were worth the view. Mum surfaced to breathe, her breath permeating the air with the scent of 3 day old anchovies.


The day progressed with more whale sightings, and some amazing displays- jumping out of the water, breaching, tail slapping, and of course calves coming up to check us out. The crew took footage of the day, but we decided not to buy a copy. However, earlier in the day a crew member had accidently spilt hot water down my back, and as an apology I was given two DVD’s- one from our day and a generic version.
Back at camp, we got ready to depart for Fraser Island the next day. Storing our ‘home’, packing our 4WD and ensuring we had food supplies for the 4 days.
The barge across only took half an hour and we soon landed our wheels on the world’s largest sand island (and boy doesn’t the sand penetrate everything). Knowing Fraser Island is on the world Heritage list, I was a little perplexed to see many introduced plants and weeds along the very bumpy track. Our (primitive) resort was also landscaped with ‘non natives’, and I was horrified to see the bar serving drinks in plastic cups with plastic straws (not to mention disco lights and blaring 80’s music at 5.30pm). Were we misled that this was a unique, unspoilt island? However, as I learnt more, I began to accept the introduced plants as part of the history of this island, leading to the unique ecosystem. After all, the dingo, for which Fraser is so famous, is also really an introduced species.
Fraser certainly is isolated. This is evidenced by two main factors- the wildlife encounters and ‘non’ availability of medical/ mechanical assistance. Arriving at a designated walk after driving along the endless beach, I followed Dave as we walked deeper into Fraser’s sandy forest interior. Dave often listens to his radio as we walk (tuned into his beloved ABC of course), and I thought they must have been playing some Irish music, as I watched what can only be described as some sort of jig, while having an epileptic fit. It turns out that a King Brown snake was a mere few millimetres from Dave’s toes. The snake was obviously scared by his ‘dancing’ display and promptly slithered off into the bush. Dave was a little shaken, and therefore the photos of the snake are a little blurred. With that sort of reality check, we decided it was better to have our first aid kit in the car, instead of back in our room. It certainly would have come in handy when I sliced the top of my toe later (it is healing nicely).
As the sun began to set, Dave took advantage of the framing light to take some shots. Wary of vehicles driving along the beach, he nestled in the sand dunes, sitting still taking in the serenity. His trance like state only broken by the sound of sniffing. Curious as to what could be making this noise Dave turned to be face to face with a dingo. The dog was patting distance, but once Dave stood and asserted his authority the dingo took off in search of another baby....



We were yet to have more animal encounters, but none that got the adrenalin racing. The most spectacular were the turtles. I happened to glance out the window, just at the right time to see a turtle on the waters edge. We stopped the car to get some up close shots, only to discover it was actually two turtles, entwined in an ‘intimate’ embrace. They had obviously got caught up in the heat of the moment, not realising they had been washed ashore. Was it wrong to watch? Oh well, it was just too amazing not to. The waves washed over them until the inevitable happened and they were both flipped onto their backs. The female soon righted herself, with the help of an incoming wave and took off quick. I don’t blame her- he certainly was a ‘big boy’. We then watched as the male flapped and whaled in distress as he could not right himself. We were conscious of not interfering, but I said I would not leave until I saw him safely back in the ocean. It became distressing for us to, especially gaining eye contact. His pupils dilated and consumed with fear. He looked so vulnerable and helpless. It seemed an eternity later, when we decided Dave should lend a helping flipper, but as he approached the turtle finally righted himself and slowly swam out to safety.

Mating turtles, Fraser Island


The turtle was not to be our only good deed for the day. Leaving the beach, we took off for a scenic drive on one of the inland tracks. Track conjures up the image of a dirt road, perhaps narrow in places, perhaps with a few holes. Let me tell you the inland ‘tracks’ are serious 4WD territory. As I was bounced about, I wished I had put my support bra on. It was easier to go with the rhythm rather than stiffen, but after 4 days I certainly have had enough of 4WD driving! 10km’s can take up to half an hour to cover, as you negotiate the terrain. Finally arriving at one of the perched inland lakes, a German tourist came over asking if we had mobile coverage. The battery in their vehicle had discharged the day before along another track. They had walked over 7 km’s back to their camp, near the lake, after getting lost. They had encountered some other people, but no one with mobile coverage, or that could help. My phone had limited coverage- one of the only ones on the island to do so, and I managed to call for assistance. The local police asked a few questions, and I acted as translator between the distressed German and the other end of the line. They were so relieved to know help was on its way, even if they did have to wait a few hours.
It was time for us to relax and we set up on the shores of Lake Boomanjin. Laying on my towel, I soon sank into the soft sand, fine as talcum powder and as pure white as the first snow. The water was crystal clear and soon washed away any stress from the day. Magical. Pure nature in her unspoilt glory.

Lake Boomanjin

As the days passed on the island, our 4WD and beach driving skills gained in confidence. We were soon trekking further up the beach, racing the tides to see sights such as the Maheno shipwreck and Eli Creek- were we floated along the creek all the way out to sea. But nothing can prepare you for a hidden washout on the beach, as we discovered too late. We became airborne, if for only a brief second and braced for the landing. Nothing compared to the bounce of some of the inland tracks and we were up for it again.............
I could talk about Fraser’s beauty and experiences more, but I shall leave it for you to discover, as some of you no doubt already have. We are off further north tomorrow and looking forward to some restful days after the experience of Fraser.