Friday, September 4, 2009

No place like home

September 3 marked the official ‘one year on the road’ for us. We have no plans to stop anytime soon, but feel we will end up back in Sydney when we settle down. In aboriginal lore the place where you were born is where your spirit lives- a sacred dreaming place. It is a place of belonging, of being one with the land. A place where knowledge, peace and happiness is found. Dreaming sites are found all over aboriginal Australia exerting a pull on the spirit and soul, always to return to the heart of ones dreaming. And besides, we are yet to find a beach that competes with the ones from home.........

Our campsite, Barn Hill Station

Heading south from Broome, Port Hedland, the nearest town is over 680 kilometres away. So it was once again a time of red dirt and the outback. However, this time it was the outback on the coast. Our journey scooted the edge of the Great Sandy Desert, so it was no wonder the landscape reflected such. Anorexic looking trees, with their ravaged limbs struggled to survive until finally petering out. The road then simply divided a vast nothingness, bar spindly grass. Outback cattle stations eke out a living in this harsh land and to supplement their income, many have set up a caravan park on part of the station.

Barn Hill Station even has a Bowling Green...

Our first night when we (finally) left Broome was at Barn Hill Station. Camped on the cliff top we had a view of the Indian Ocean, which also provided some cool relief. If you are ever in this neck of the woods, make sure you stay here on a Sunday night. This is when some country entertainment is supplied and makes for a fun night.

Certainly is a big country, we would have travelled all of Europe by now

Australia is one big country, so it stands to reason that her beaches stretch forever. Eighty Mile Beach (which is actually 110 miles, 176 kilometres) was one of our favourite spots. An aquamarine ocean literally dumps thousands of exotic shells on the shore. Beachcombing one afternoon a pod of dolphins seemed to follow us as we made our way down the beach. The wildlife out here really is prolific.

It is a popular spot, but the red dirt road in to the Caravan Park is in good condition.

Don't leave the gas on.......

It was surprising then to see a burnt out caravan abandoned on this road. We learnt that only a week prior some poor grey nomads had had the fright of their lives. Gas cylinders inside their van had exploded and caught fire. The burnt out carcass will remain until inspected by insurance officers, but also provides a reminder to turn off the gas before travelling.

Low tide, Eighty Mile Beach, so far from the shore, but still no water!



Eighty Mile Beach, high tide

We will never tire of the jewelled colour of the ocean over here. However, with tides that vary from 7 to 10 metres, the walk out to the ocean can be a long one at low tide. It really is a strange phenomenon, when the ocean recedes you are left with a big tidal flat. Crabs, small fish, octopus and sea cucumbers are left behind in the shallow pools, so you have to be careful where you step.

Crabs fighting, Eighty Mile Beach


Cape Keraudren, was our final stop before Port Hedland. With a bay on one side and the ocean on the other, we soaked up the beauty. The water was so clear that we could clearly see turtles swimming deep underwater. However, it was the kangaroos that provided the best experience. They are obviously used to campers, for when I called over ‘Skippy’ from 100 metres away, I got the shock of my life when she actually bounded over to me! We had to quickly move our herb garden inside, but she seemed content to forage near our camp.

Me and my friend Skip

The next morning she was back and wanting to join us in our camper. Sorry Skip, the spare bed is not available for you.
Cape Keraudren is also where the Rabbit Proof Fence ended, however no longer stands. No fences are now in sight, just a pristine wilderness, midges (sandflies) and very friendly kangaroos.

Cape Keraudren

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