Termite Mounds
Onslow, with a population of just 800 people, was a welcomed sight to break up the journey. Shown to our campsite, we were a little perturbed to be situated next to a Bobcat and boat, the latter in a state of disrepair. Scoping out the Caravan Park, it appeared our site was in the slum area, whilst many exclusive water view sites remained empty. Never fear, once they realised what esteemed characters we were, we were moved to prime real estate. Not only did we now have water views, but also a vegetable garden at our disposal, providing us with ripe tomatoes, beans, bok choy, spinach and herbs. A nearby tree was home to many species of little birds, but it was the flock of budgerigars that had us enthralled. Common as a household pet, we still have not got used to hearing their familiar chirp in the wild and seeing them in their natural surroundings.
No longer in its heyday, Onslow is still a quaint little town. However, the most impressive feature was the War Memorial. Only a year old, the memorial has been designed so that the sun, which rises over the ocean, appears through the centre each and every Anzac Day. Looking out across the shimmer over the ocean would certainly add to the sombre reflection of the day.
War Memorial at sunrise
However beautiful the water may have looked, it was once again one that we could not enter. For the past 2 years crocodiles have been spotted here, as they move further south, seeking new territory. With a recent sighting, we opted to visit Old Onslow instead of a swim. Back in 1925, with port facilities affected by silting up of the Ashburton River, the entire town was relocated some 18 kilometres to the east. With most of the buildings and infrastructure moved to the new town site, all that remains of Old Onslow is the cemetery, police quarters and a few brick piles of rubble.
Police Station ruins, Old Onslow
The most intriguing aspect was the piles of old bottles. We know they were ‘old’ due to the type of glass, insignia and bottle design. Why are there so many here? Literally thousands were scattered in piles across the old town site.
Once a thriving pearling town (before Broome), salt is now the major industry of Onslow. Condensing ponds of brilliant white stood out in stark contrast to the red dirt edges. So pure and clean, it was hard to fathom how the contents remained so, the whiteness almost too brilliant to view with sunglasses on.
Salt ponds, Onslow
With such large distances between towns, leaving Onslow we camped under some Ghost Gums by the (dry) Ashburton River on our way to Coral Bay. The afternoon was spent exploring the wide riverbed, chasing emus and collecting firewood to cook a campie dinner. We always have a great sleep when camped out in the bush, the only light the stars in the sky and the only sound the crackle of our campfire.
Ashburton River, Free campsite
Refreshed it was onto Coral Bay. Located on the shores of the Ningaloo Marine Park, Coral Bay has one street and only a handful of shops (with very expensive prices). But, it was for the snorkelling, marine life and white sandy beach (at last) that we were here, and we were certainly not disappointed.
Even though our stay co-incided with one of the busiest Coral Bay tourist seasons, there was no hustle and bustle. The area is still very much untouched- perfect, pristine and protected. The brilliant turquoise coloured water was a tad cooler than we had become used to, but was just too inviting not to enter (I even got in quicker than Dave!!).
Site of original jetty, Coral Bay
With snorkels and masks on, it was then time to submerge into another world, the coral reef a mere 50 metres off the beach. Although the coral did not have the brilliant colours of the Great Barrier Reef, the size and varied specimens soon had us mesmerised. The fish life is abundant, with specimens that we had never seen before- long thin Trumpet Fish, iridescent little blue ones, Angelia Jolie fish (I named such as they had big lips), yellow ones, stripy ones, big ones, small ones, turtles and Eagle Rays. With an effortless motion the Eagle Rays glided past us and although cool to see, I was a relived to see them go- I confess I was a little scared of them (they look evil with their bird like heads and sting ray body). You lose all sense of time and reality in this underwater world, with so much activity, sights and experiences before you. There are no sounds in this world other than the ‘crackle’ of fish eating the coral. It was really weird to witness a Parrot Fish taking large chomps on a piece of coral and actually hearing the bites!
Snapper coming into shore for feeding
Back on land, the fish still entertained us. Large snapper swim to the shoreline at 3.30pm every day for feeding. With half their bodies protruding out of the shallow water, they appear to be trying to walk up the beach. Coral Bay is also home to a Reef Shark nursery, with a natural reef border to protect the bubs from predators and the ocean at large.
Reef sharks in their nursery
The nursery is located only a short walk along the beach and we were soon wading in waters with hundreds of baby sharks.
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