Red dirt, red cliffs

The fog had lifted and the sun was once again beaming down on us, packed with our tent and food supplies we headed for Cape Leveque, at the tip of the Dampier Peninsula.
Numerous aboriginal communities are established along the Dampier Peninsula. But rather than the alcohol ravaged stereotypes of Central Australia, these are thriving, self sustaining communities. Usually run by a large family group, they offer accommodation, tours and a chance to enjoy their remote wilderness.
Our mornings were spent snorkelling in the azure waters and after lunch we ambled along the beach, watching the whales play.

Western Beach, Cape Leveque








Our evenings were spent enjoying a tipple as we watched the setting sun create pools of gold across the ocean.
Leaving Kooljaman, where we had set up camp, we headed for Whale Song, operated by the Munget Community. Here we camped atop the red cliffs overlooking Pender Bay, the humpback whales nursery and resting grounds. With the sun beating down, there was only one option, a cooling swim. The short walk to the beach took us past the community, camels and vegetable garden (complete with scarecrow). The beach proved great for beachcombing with many unusual shells, both small and large. We soon discovered how this place got its name- diving underwater you could hear the whale song, as they communicated with each other.
Opening a bleary eye in the morning, we could see the sunrise over the bay from our tent. Gazing out to sea we enjoyed the tranquillity of the morning with a hot cuppa and the odd whale waving a flipper hello.

View from our tent, Whale Song

The beauty of this area has long been known by aboriginals. It is heritage listed, and ancient fish traps can still be seen at low tide along the reef.
Whale Song is sympathetic with the natural environment, however the solar powered outdoor shower has been one of our best to date! Sculptured just right to allow for privacy, you simply hung the ‘In Use’ sign on a tree and showered ‘in the bush’.

Showering in the bush, Whale Song

It was time to depart and venture back along the vibrant red, dirt road to Broome. Stopping at Beagle Bay, we saw yet another thriving aboriginal community and visited the local church. Built by Pallotine Monks and local aboriginals in 1918, it is notable for the beautiful altar made from mother of pearl.

Mother of Pearl altar, church at Beagle Bay

Mother of pearl made Broome the hub of the international pearling trade in the late 19th century, and would not have been possible without the Japanese divers, who sometimes risked their lives to ensure a big haul. Many divers came across from Taiji, which became a sister city to Broome. However, since the movie release of ‘The Cove’, all historic ties have been cut. Highlighting the slaughter of dolphins at the port town of Taiji, the Broome local council was inundated with messages to sever all ties. How could you not? Huge numbers of dolphins are herded into a narrow cove and then hacked to death with knives and harpoons for food, or captured for sale to amusement parks.












Japanese Cemetery

Many Japanese still live in Broome, with relatives buried at the Japanese Cemetery. Racial tensions are running high and a day after we visited the historic cemetery, it was locked, with no public access. Overnight, pictures of dolphins had been plastered over this sacred place.