Wednesday, February 4, 2009

Extremes

Australia, especially Tasmania, is a land of extremes. I have endured 170km winds that shut down parts of Hobart (while Dave was at the tennis) and temperatures soaring above 40 degrees. But, we wouldn’t have it any other way.
We have now been in Tasmania for over 5 weeks (boy time does fly when you are having fun), and some of you familiar with this part of the world are probably wondering why you have not read about us venturing to the classic haunts of Port Arthur, Cradle Mountain or Wineglass Bay. The truth is, we have done those all before, having visited just under 3 years ago. We had perfect weather then, especially at Cradle Mountain. For a destination that averages over 270 days of rain a year, we do not want to ruin our sunny memories of the Dove Lake walk (Cradle Mtn) and her breathtaking beauty.
So, we saw ourselves heading for the Bay of Fires, an area we were told that rivalled Cradle Mountain. First stop was a free camp at Friendly Beaches, situated on the idyllic stretch of coastline that makes up the Freycinet Peninsula.

Walkway to 'our beach'- Friendly Beaches

I’m not versed on how it got its name, but can certainly vouch for the friendliness of the local wildlife. The wallabies were very inquisitive and checked out both us and our camper, one (who I named Jeffrey) stared into the camper doorway looking like he wished he could bed with us for the night. Jeffrey then made himself comfortable at my feet (perhaps he liked sitting on the soft matting). Friendly Beaches is about 20 minutes from the world famous Wineglass Bay area. We did venture for a drive to where we had stayed once before at Coles Bay, but have to admit that we preferred ‘our beach’ area much more. The beauty of Wineglass Bay is only really seen from the air or from the top of a rather steep walk.


Blow hole at Bicheno- can you see a womens face in the spray?

Our beach’, was a haven of white silica sand surrounded by knuckles of granite mountains that make up the rugged, yet beautiful Freycinet Peninsula. As the weather warmed up, we also took our first ocean swim in Tasmania! I revelled in the tumbling waves and loved immersing my body in water (we were free camping remember). That was until Dave mentioned we were close to where a surfer was taken by a shark not long ago at Bicheno. I promptly exited the water and strolled along the beach to dry off in the sun. The days were certainly getting hotter and our wallaby friends took advantage of any moisture forming on our vehicle. Are you thirsty Jeffrey? He certainly was- he proceeded to drink just over 500mls!!. At this rate we would have to ration our water supplies.


All too soon we farewelled our furry friends, and headed for the Bay of Fires, so named in 1773 after aboriginal fires were sighted on shore. As our arrival co-incided with the highest temperature ever recorded here in Tasmania, the name certainly felt apt. We cooled off in a little bay that was sheltered from the pounding waves of the main beach. Finally, I got to spend a hot summer’s day on a beach!

Pic taken at 'The Gardens'- Bay of Fires- cool again!
After a stormy night, all too soon the cooler Tassie weather was back.
However, this enabled us to explore the Bay of Fires area. Eddystone Point, housing a still working lighthouse, was our first walk. As we ventured closer to the lighthouse we saw a few dead mutton birds, with every step the carnage increased. I stopped counting at 20. One barely alive huddled close to the lighthouse in a vain attempt to shelter from the wind. It seems the storm of the previous night sent the birds off course and they flew into the light- quite literally.

Eddystone Point Lighthouse- scene of mutton bird carnage

Not all of our bird encounters have been so gruesome, and as new found ‘twitchers’ we have delighted in spotting blue wrens, red robins, sea eagles, gannets, petrels and albatross in this area. The Bay of Fires is pristine, unspoilt and a bird lovers paradise, however for diverse beauty I would recommend to Cradle Mountain.
After 6 days of free camping, it was time for a ‘real shower’. Mind you, in the warm weather I did use our outdoor shower! Dave laughed as I exfoliated and preened outside in the buff. Lucky our campsite was very private...... Tomahawk on the north west coast, provided our real shower. It is known as Tasmania’s best kept secret, and I would tend to agree. Nice beach, nice vista and very relaxing.
We soon found ourselves in Longford on our way back to Hobart for the Wooden Boat Festival. Longford (which has the best showers EVER) , has many dwellings of historical interest, that are still in use today and an amble along the main street is very interesting.


Our 'home' at Longford- we camped by the river

Our last stop prior to Hobart was Oatlands. With its long history, Oatlands is one of the finest examples of an historic village in Australia. By 2010, the 1800’s mill will be fully restored, complete with bakery, and this village is sure to be a hot tourist destination. We free camped beside Lake Dulverton, only the lake has been bone dry since 2003..... still it was a pretty spot. We were joined by fellow campers, who were also on their way to the Wooden Boat Festival. Our new friend David makes miniature wooden boats and will be displaying them- I can’t wait to see more of his crafts at the show, having seen a sample.

No comments: