Thursday, February 19, 2009

Goodbye Tassie


Tallest tree- Styx Valley

All around the world people are fascinated by huge and ancient trees- their beauty, spiritual power and the humbling feeling of walking amongst giants. And, so it was we found ourselves in the Styx Valley. Home to some of the most political logging ‘discussions’ and the tallest hardwoods on earth (true!). These Giant Swamp Gums are the world’s tallest flowering plants and the Styx Valley is home to a 90 metre tall specimen. Not that the average tourist would know. It is as if tourism is discouraged in this area- possibly due to the political sensitivity. As we gazed up the tree trunks, the trees seemed to reach into the heavens, and we could see why they certainly should be protected.
We set up camp nearby in the Mt Field National Park, which is just over half an hour north of Hobart. One of Tasmania’s oldest National Parks, she is my favourite. Mt Field is like 4 parks in one- from the tall forests and waterfalls of the lower sections to the glaciated mountains, windswept moors and tranquil lakes of the highlands, the park encompasses an amazing diversity of landscapes.


Russell Falls, Mt Field National Park

It even contains a mixed forest- a rainforest that contains eucalypts. We took an easy walk around Lake Dobson past ancient Pencil Pines and the Pandani Grove. I remember these plants from our time in Cradle Mountain. They don’t look like anything native to Australia (they are), with an almost prehistoric feel.
Being Monday, we ensured we were hooked up to power- our one must do television night. Top Gear, then Underbelly. Aaaaahhhh. We set up our TV (the laptop with the TV tuner tuned in) outside, as it was a balmy evening. We were engrossed in the action, but were easily distracted by the Pademelons (like a small wallaby) and possums that grazed at our feet and chased each other around.


Pademelons watching Underbelly with us

From Mt Field and her beauty, it was off to Deloraine. Our opinion of Deloraine was preconceived by the ‘awful’ TV documentary we have seen on the ship sailing over. However, we were both enamoured by this town. We camped by the river that flowed through the town’s centre creating lush green gardens. It certainly did have a ‘hippy’ influence, but did not seem to have any ‘feral’ types. Perhaps it is because I continually had ducklings clamber over my feet (oh so cute), at out campsite, that I really feel in love with this town.

Dave and friend in the town of Penguin

As we ensured we made the most of our last days in Tasmania, we continued on through the town of Penguin to Wynyard, in the heart of Tasmania’s north west coast. Dave and I took a walk up the Table Cape, a very steep walk, but one that rewarded with the best cliff top view for miles around. That was until we ventured to Stanley the following day.
Stanley is home to ‘The Nut’- the solidified lava lake core of a giant volcano whose mountainous sides have long since blown away, almost like a Tassie version of Uluru. If we thought our previous days walk was steep, it was nothing on climbing up The Nut.
Of course we could have taken the chairlift like everyone else, but where was their sense of adventure? It really only took us about 15 minutes to climb to the top, but boy was she steep. Stretching out our legs we walked around the core, soaking up the faraway view and the waters of Bass Strait colliding with the rolling waves of the Great Southern Ocean. We sucked in the cleanest air in the world- which has been proven by recent scientific measurements, and were ready for the decent. We both agree, it is actually easier to walk up very steep inclines.......
On our way back for a ‘rest’ we stopped off at Sisters Beach and Boat Harbour Beach. The latter is listed as one of the best in the world, and a regular on Getaway.
Today we departed the wild magic of the north west wilderness, as we move closer to our ships departure. As it is our last night on the Apple Isle, we stopped off at the Lactos Cheese Tasting Centre. As a farewell we are going to indulge in a wine and cheese dinner (the first since we have been away!). Located in Burnie, we sampled all that was on offer and walked away with a Mersey Valley, Heritage Blue, Heritage Double Brie, St Claire Swiss and a Raclette- a rustic cheese (whatever that means, but it tastes yum). To walk off some room for this feast, we detoured off to the Fernglade Reserve. It was here 3 years ago that we saw or first Pademelon, who would have known years later, we would be watching Underbelly with them!

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