Thursday, January 22, 2009

Jeans & Genes

If Tasmania is a small island, then Bruny Island off the South East of Tasmania, is tiny. This means a very concentrated gene pool and allows the rare white (albino) wallaby to breed in increasing numbers. It also means a limited human gene pool.......... perhaps this is where Tasmanian’s got such a reputation for marrying their sisters and having ‘two heads’. We certainly met such a family at one of the free camping spots. They were abusive and threatening (and rather ugly looking). Being ‘out in the bush’, we decided it was best to pack up and leave the next morning to remove ourselves from any potential situation. We checked into the only caravan park on the island and found the people to be a more ‘gentle’ type, and rather friendly.
Although we are now experiencing warm (even hot) weather, Bruny was windy and cool. A walk up to Australia’s second oldest lighthouse was nearly impossible. It was a fight against the raging wind up to the top of the cape, but once there we

Lighthouse and view, Bruny Island

were greeted with panoramic views of the island. Out to sea, the wind lashed her fury, creating waves big enough to surf. But the wind made the walk back easier- I was almost flying down the steep path, the wind trying her best to pick me up and carry me away.

View across to the mainland (Tasmania)

Bruny is steeped in history, having had Cook, Bligh and Flinders amongst others navigate her shores and stop for supplies. Even before the white man, aborigines thrived, with the most famous of all- Truganini, calling Bruny home (she was the last Tasmanian aboriginal). By the late 1800’s four whaling stations graced her shores and we set off to explore the crumbling relics of this murderous past.
The walk to the point was easy enough, so we decided to continue to the top of Flute Cape. We knew it would be uphill, but were certainly not prepared for the 275m incline over a couple of km’s!

Flute Cape, Bruny Island

It was like walking up the top section of Awaba Street, only on uneven, sometimes muddy ground and never ending! Once at the top, we could see forever, the curve of the earth a distant horizon. We certainly slept well that night........
We moved camp again to a site on the neck joining the north and south of the island (a family friendly free campsite). With a beach on one side and a channel on the other, Dave threw in the line a few times, but still no fish have been caught. One day we will have fresh fish for dinner....... A penguin rookery was

See the pengiun! (Top right of pic)

only 3kms away, so we walked along the beach at dusk to catch a glimpse of these birds coming in from the ocean. Ahead we saw what I thought was a big patch of kelp that had been washed ashore, but as a flipper was raised as it to wave at us,


Seal waving to us, Bruny Island

we knew it was a seal. We hoped that he was not injured,

Seal up close, Bruny Island

as he did not look all that healthy, his movements slow and arthritic like. It turns out, he is known to the Rangers and is a very old seal, not able to move too far and often likes to sunbake on the warm road- they are hoping he doesn’t end up as road kill!
The Fairy Penguins did not disappoint. As the adults come home from a day fishing at sea, the chicks hungry from a day sleeping in the rookery, squeal in delight and seem to kiss and cuddle. They are the cutest little birds to watch, especially as they waddle up the sand. As we walked back home along the road, we encountered many more penguins displaying affection and watching us go by.
We awoke to a cornflower sky, and our departure from Bruny. It had turned out to be a magical place and I will never forgot my seal wave and baby penguins, fluffed up from the cold night air. We are settled in Hobart, or rather I am settled in Hobart. Dave has flown back to the mainland to see the


Dave at the Australian Open

Australian Open with Zelks and Vic. He is gone for 2 full days, allowing me to shop, explore and potter around home. I even managed to secure tickets to see Ross Noble (comedian) at the Royal Theatre for Sunday night. I am enjoying my time alone, but have Mum and 5 baby ducklings camped with me!

Ducks at my campsite, Hobart

Each morning, anticipating a free feed the ducklings fire up their little legs, as I open the door and squawk at my feet. I do not feed them, but this does not seem to deter them from wanting to stay at my camp site.

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