Up here the mountains of the Great Dividing Range roll and tumble close to the ocean, the flat coastline a contrast to the sheer size of the ‘hills’. We camped at Rollingstone, on the beach, but journeyed up a narrow, steep and windy road that led us to the Paluma National Park. At 1000 metres above sea level, we were soon walking through a rainforest in the clouds.
Walking through the clouds, Paluma
It is still the wet season and given we were in the wet tropics, it was bound to rain. A tropical storm thundered down from above, yet under the canopy of the rainforest we were protected from all but a few drops.
However, cloaked in low cloud we could not see a thing from Witts Lookout, just a sea of white stretching far out in front of us. The rain was set in, so we opted to head back down the mountain, away from the rainforest and her wetness. Little Crystal Creek, nearing the base of the mountain, is a popular place to swim, especially under the stone arch bridge. Built during the 1930’s depression, it provided much needed work, yet in this climate they would have earnt every dollar!
Little Crystal Creek
Awaking to a new day, it was one once again shrouded in mist, thanks to low clouds trapping the warm sea air. It creates a very pretty effect, but the downside is the humidity. As we walked to Jourama Falls the sweat trickled down our backs. So when we arrived at the first of two creek crossings and knew we would get wet, we didn’t mind too much. That was until I saw the state of the crossing....... Balancing on slippering rocks, ankle deep in fast flowing water I was not amused.
Creek crossing, Jourama Falls
However, the view of the falls was worth it. Tiered over many levels the volume of water cascading down makes you wonder how this country could ever be in drought.
Hot and sweaty we needed a swim and Big Crystal Creek provided the perfect crocodile free spot. Natural water slides, given the slipperiness of the rocks, give this waterhole a playful feel. Some ‘mad’ locals were diving head first down the slides into the plunge pool. Dave had few turns sliding down on his bottom, but I opted to swim in my own private pool a little further downstream. While splashing about I also saw my first Ulysses Butterfly- the famous fluorescent blue butterfly of the tropics.
Swimming, Big Cyrstal Creek
There are many great swim spots and waterfalls in this region, but one we could not miss was Wallaman Falls, near Ingham. Driving up another steep, windy narrow road, Wallaman Falls is a real treat. At 268 metres it is Australia’s tallest sheer drop falls. The surge of water falling is mesmerising, the mist created reminding me of Niagara Falls.
Wallaman Falls
Heading back to the coast, we stopped off at Lucinda, were Australia’s longest jetty stretches 6 kilometres out to sea. The jetty is so long that it has had to be built in line with the curvature of the earth!
Lucinda Jetty- 6km's long!
Driving north once more, the beauty of the tropics was all around us. Pine and palm trees line the road, but not far inland mountain peaks get lost in clouds, thick tropical growth seeming to devour their bulk. It is pretty, but the humidity and bugs are not. I could not live up here, so it was a testament to Dave’s Great Grandfather and Grandfather who did. Settling in Cardwell they were school teacher and student respectively. Enquires at the local museum provided us with some information on said Stubbins and the life they led.
Cardwell Historic centre
Tully, just north of Cardwell claims to be Australia’s wettest place. We would have to agree. On approach the blue sky turned grey, the heavens opening up and stayedg with us to Mission Beach. The wet season officially ends on May 1, but this year it looks to be a little delayed. Still the bonus of this tropical climate is the abundance of tropical fruit.
Apparently Mission Beach is paradise. With a rainforest that meets the sea and 14 kilometres of palm lined beach I can see why it could be so. Lying on the golden sands, gazing out at the steel blue sea dotted with tropical islands sure would be a relaxing time. However, our days at Mission Beach were wet and humid, the sea off limits due to stingers. The locals are not sure what is happening with the weather. Many head south from November till now, staying away for the oppressive wet season. Having now arrived home they too are suffering the weather.
Mission Beach
Mission Beach is famous for its Cassowaries. We did not encounter any of these prehistoric birds, during our walks through the rainforest, just big bugs making us feel we had landed in the Valley of the Giants!
Don't run! Dave and Cassowary friend
As we headed further into the tropics, the overcast days stayed with us. Paronella Park at Mena Creek, looked like it has not had a dry day for many a year. In the 1930’s a Spanish immigrant had a dream to build a castle. On 13 acres beside Mena Creek, he built his castle complete with a theatre, tennis court and picnic grounds. Visitors could come and use the facilities- sort of like a, early day theme park.
Paronella Park at night
The story of how the castle came to be in ruins is plagued by death, insurance fraud and destruction by tropical cyclones. It is an interesting place to visit and is more reminiscent of a lost Amazon city than a castle in country Queensland.
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