Customs House and Commercial Hotel, Rockhampton
Known as the beef capital of Australia, life sized bull statues line the main street- however recent Uni pranks have seen the ‘bulls balls’ being souvenired. We camped by the mighty Fitzroy River, Australia’s second largest catchment, which flows through the town. She was in full flow, with plenty of high, green grass lining her banks.
The journey north from Rockhampton re-ignited memories from our first trek north, like walking around Mt Etna trying to find the elusive bats (we never did find them), being chased by a bush turkey and our first free camp spot at Carmila Beach. The sugar cane was still just as tall, a steel green contrast to the now vivid green grass.
As the bitumen danced to the horizon the towns grew further apart. Growing weary, and with no other real option we pulled into Mackay for the night. We had stayed here previously and were not that enamoured with the town. Although we now camped at Black’s Beach, a nicer spot than the Caravan Park in town previously stayed at, our dislike of the town was as strong as ever.
Black's Beach, Mackay
The weather was a little more humid here, but we were not going near the ocean water. Stinger season. Only last week Black’s Beach was closed as a 12 year old girl, wearing a full stinger suit, had a Box Jellyfish wrap around her ankle and exposed foot. Given morphine she was still screaming in pain a full five minutes later.
Once you leave Mackay the vista changes, once again becoming a sight to gaze at. The fields of rippling sugarcane run right up to the edge of a sculptured mountain range. Paperbarks and palm trees line the road. We were on our way to Bowen, famous for being the location of the ‘Australia’ movie. We have both seen the movie, but are not fans of Baz’s work. However, stopping in at the Big Mango, which is also a tourist information centre, we discovered there is more to see and do here.
The Big Mango!
Bowan marks our foray into previously uncharted territory, and we gotta say- we like it! Located at the top of the Whitsundays, it is surprisingly nice. The town still has an air of underdeveloped purity, but with its landscaped foreshores, pretty beaches complete with tumbling granite boulders and swaying palm trees, it is a nice place to chill out.
Horseshoe Bay, Bowen.... a little old lady took the photo for us...
Much beautifying work has gone on since ‘Australia’, but all that remains of the movie set is the Police Station facade. Made of plaster of paris, the weather is playing its part in erasing all evidence of the movie.
The Police Station, 'Australia' movie
Charters Towers was to be our next destination, however having passed through Home Hill and detoured to Ayr, with its Big Snake, we soon came across a warning sign.
Big Snake (actually the Rainbow Serpent), Ayr
The road ahead was very steep and trucks, buses and caravans were warned not to proceed. We were annoyed. We had specifically stopped in at the tourist information centre to enquire about such. A previous hair raising steep road experience had us turning around and heading towards Townsville.
Infact, we stopped about 25 km’s south of Townsville in the Bowling Green National Park. Camped by the Alligator River, we were soon joined by a flock of Bush Turkeys (we have never seen so many) and cute little Agile Wallabies. The showers were cold only, but the crystal clear river was a nice 22 degrees.... so guess where we bathed....
Our bath, Bowling Green National Park
The following morning we hiked to Cockatoo Creek. There is a particular plant up here that has a strong smell like tumeric. It permeates the air and has all on the walk wondering which plant it is coming from.
After a restless night spent listening to the strange sounds of the ‘tropical bush’, we headed into Townsville. Although Queensland’s second largest city, it still has a tropical laid back feel. Sprawled in a valley, the town is nestled in between huge rocky escarpments ending at the sea, giving a sense of space and freedom with the security of impenetrable mountains. Although, lucky WWII ended when it did for the Americans were about to blow up one such mountain, Castle Hill, in order to form a land bridge to Magnetic Island, located 8 kilometres off shore.
Picnic lunch near the Rock Pool, The Strand
The foreshore, known as ‘The Strand’ is manmade, complete with stinger free rock pool. This is just one of the modern developments, giving the impression of a thriving town, yet compassionate with the many heritage buildings. The Museum of Tropical Queensland is a very modern building, however we found the museum itself a disappointment.
My head on a platter, Townsville Museum
Whilst the Pandora shipwreck exhibition (the ship sent to find the Bounty and its mutineers), was worthy, the remainder of the museum was a little too kid centric. Yet, we like Townsville, another place we could easily live in.
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