Be careful what you wish for

Having craved a long walk in a National Park for some time now, my lust was certainly extinguished at Carnarvon Gorge. Setting out at 8.30am, we decided to walk to Big Bend- the furthest point in the Gorge, have lunch and then on our way back ‘do’ as many of the off shoots as we could, to experience the natural phenomenon and aboriginal rock art. The day was hot, but we were occasionally under the dense trees and protected from the harsh rays. They say it is hard to tell the time by the sun in a gorge, perhaps this is why we walked until 5pm, with only the lunch break as a rest stop. A full days work!
With only one must see left to visit, as if on auto pilot we took the side track. As the incline rose and numerous steps appeared before me, my legs ached and I wished the pack on my back was not so heavy. We were certainly getting a workout. Having viewed the ‘Moss Garden’ it was homeward bound- only 4kms to go. Not bad- we had already done just over 26kms.
During the course of the day we crossed Carnarvon Creek 44 times, via stepping stones. Counting down the crossings, I was glad to reach number 2- the second last. My body was becoming fatigued, as we were now exposed to the harsh sun in the creek bed, and I needed concentration so as to not fall in! The last 500m were the hardest, all I could manage was to focus on putting one foot in front of the other. The track as we neared the carpark was littered with kangaroos and wallaby’s. Perhaps they could sense that I would not have had the energy to do any harm- some hardly moving out of my way, almost making me step over a tail or two.
The car was a very welcomed sight. Back at camp, we both showered and then lay down to put our swollen legs up. We had plans of making a Panang Curry for dinner earlier in the day, but all our energy could muster was a leftover sausage in a bread roll. As weary as I was the throbbing of my legs and feet meant sleep eluded me for a while.
Enough of my whinging! What about the Gorge- why is it such a tourist destination of Central Queensland you ask. Walking into the Gorge is akin to walking into the set of Jurassic Park.

Deep in Carnarvon Gorge

Engulfed on both sides by the sandstone ridge, the valley (or ancient creek bed) contains all the tall native trees we are accustomed too, as well as an abundance of tropical palm trees. Once covering most of Queensland, they died out as the climate changed. The gorge, with its constant water supply means it is the only place in Central Queensland to still house these relics from the time of dinosaurs. The aboriginals took shelter here for short periods over 3500 years ago. Long gone, the only hint of their existence are rock stencils, paintings and carvings in the soft sandstone. Signs at the various viewing sights explain what the symbols are and how they were made (all an educated guess though, as no real links to the original inhabitants remain). What is known for sure is the tribes in this area carved hundreds of female ‘vulva’s’ in the various caves. I had to stifle a laugh at the ‘Cathedral Cave’, when a European visitor asked Dave ‘what is a vulva?’ Thankfully he hadn’t asked me..........
Awaking the following morning, we were both refreshed and glad with 4 days here, we could relax! After a leisurely morning, we set off for the ‘Rock Pool’- the only place you can swim in this protected gorge.

My 'beach', swimhole Carnarvon Gorge

As it is still the dry season, the creek is at its lowest, meaning there was an ample sandy beach to set our towels. What a great way to recover from the ‘stroll’ the day before- cool water, a sandy beach dotted with palm trees and all to ourselves. I nestled down with my ‘Jackie Collins’ and was joined by a magpie, who seemed fascinated to watch me. That evening we met Fred- the local aboriginal who works for the QLD National Park & Wildlife Service. Around the campfire he regaled us with stories from the ‘uncivilised time’ as well as his past. It is amazing to think that it was only in 1976 that aboriginals gained their ‘freedom’ to be treated as a white man in QLD. Fred was walking to the ‘Art Gallery’ (one of the caves off the main Gorge track) the following day and invited us to join him. He truly enjoyed keeping his culture alive by teaching us about the bush tucker and hidden stories of the rock art.
So off again up the Gorge- only this time it was a mere 10km round trip. We ate berries, grass roots and native hibiscus flowers on the way up, as well as quenching our thirst from a natural spring. Fred explained all, and how ‘his people’ had survived in such a harsh environ. Once we reached the ‘Art Gallery’ he explained what each symbol meant, and really made this ‘graffiti’ come alive for Dave and I. Fred became rather fond of Dave and I, and he certainly made the Gorge a magical experience for us.


Fred, who took us on a 10km walk in the gorge

However, all good things come to an end, and after 4 days in total isolation with no phones, internet or shops (ahhhh bliss), we have arrived in Roma. Unbeknown to us the ‘Roma Cup’ is on this weekend- bigger than the Melbourne Cup up here- lads and laddies from far (and I mean far) have descended on this outback town. We drove past the racecourse and ogled all in their finery. It is going to be like one big B&S ball tonight in town. I have already been checked out by 3 guys in a ute. We restocked supplies, but both Woolies and the bottle shop have sold out of a few items- this is the biggest weekend of the year up here........ we are’s goin’ to have us some fun..... yeee haaaa.