The hot humid days of the north were gone, but the balmy weather still had us in search of a cooling swim. Trevanthan Falls was a hidden treasure, even some recent locals not knowing about its existence. After a few kilometres on a dirt track, we then walked about 50 metres to a WOW sight.
Trevanthan Falls
You can actually hear the falls long before you see them. I was a bit ho-hum about seeing more falls, having now seen so many, but they really were picturesque. Further on from the falls were wetlands, full of lotus lilies in bloom.
After a couple of days ‘rest’ Dave was keen to tackle the Bloomfield Track to Cape Tribulation. This road is unsealed and 4WD only. I had heard it was steep, but was not prepared for how horrendous the road was. OK, it wasn’t that bad, but I had had enough of dirt roads and as the engine groaned under the strain of lugging us up the VERY steep sections, so did I. It took us two hours to reach Cape Tribulation (110 kilometres), so named by Cook because ‘here began all his troubles’.
The Bloomfield Track
It is true that this is where the ‘rainforest meets the reef’. Exploring the tropical rainforest, we could hear the gentle lapping of the ocean on the beach shore. However, the thick jungle did not let us see what we could hear. The forest contains an amazing array of palms, amongst other plants, but it was a sad reminder. Not many palm forests are left, having been cut down for grazing land.
Tropical Palm Forest, Cape Tribulation
Cape Tribulation is a pretty spot, and sitting at the Kulki lookout, gazing out over the ultimate tropical beach, my 4WD angst was all forgotten.
Cape Tribulation
We still had to drive the two hours back home, but a stop at the infamous Lion’s Den Hotel, made the return journey all worthwhile. A slab timber bar and signature covered corrugated iron walls line this pub. The signatures that adorn the walls stem from a tradition begun in the early mining days.
The Infamous Lions Den Hotel
When security of personal belongings was limited, miners began leaving their pay packets and writing how much they had spent on the wall. The amount was written and recorded for their return visit. Today, it is a quirky pub to sit in after conquering the Bloomfield Track.
Our time in Cooktown came to a close, and we were sad to leave this place. We always had a smile on our faces here- especially every afternoon as the ‘Seafood Man’ drove around the caravan park in his van. We knew he was coming as the strains of ‘I’d like to be, under the sea, in an octopus’ garden’ rang from a loudspeaker. For some reason this would make me dance. His seafood was very good too and so cheap compared to Sydney prices.
Leaving the frontier land and heading over the range, we stopped at a free camp spot at Mt Molloy. It is much cooler here and it was nice to snuggle with a doona once more. Awake bright and early we took in the sights of the Mareeba Wetlands before arriving at Atherton.
Gouldian Finch, Mareeba Wetlands
The Atherton Tablelands are a nice place to chill out. Rich farming areas, ancient volcanic lakes and waterfalls are in abundance. The farms were not always profitable, due to poor soil fertility, however in the late 1950’s Lake Tinaroo was formed. Today a 28 kilometre forest drive takes you around the lake in the Danbulla National Park and State Forest. We began the drive at the Platypus Rock Lookout, however like so many other National Park lookouts we have come across, the view was overgrown with trees. It really is a pity that nothing can be cut down in a National Park.
Lake Tinaroo
The forest is made up of thick pine plantations and Wet Tropics Rainforest. We enjoyed some easy walks before having a picnic lunch at ‘The Chimneys’. Following WWI land in this area was offered to returned soldiers for farming. Some battled to make a living and eventually just abandoned their homes, others were moved when the State Forest was proclaimed. All that is left of this house, vacated 55 years earlier are the chimneys. It is eerie to think that in only this short span of time nature has completely consumed all evidence of a man made building.
The Chimneys- once a house was here...
Our final stop for the day was Lake Eacham, one of the prettiest we have seen, after having viewed the Cathedral Fig Tree. Estimated at 500 years old, with a canopy the size of 2 Olympic Pools, the 'Cathedral' is the most impressive strangler fig tree we have seen.
Cathedral Fig Tree
The countryside in the Tablelands really is some of the prettiest on offer. The country roads meander through rolling green hills, supplemented by pockets of rainforest between the dairy farms. We had taken ourselves on a ‘Sunday drive’ to Malanda and the start of the ‘Waterfall Way’.
Milla Milla Falls
In all we stopped at 6 waterfalls, all within easy walking distance. Some had been landscaped to form a pool at the base of the falls (very 1950’s looking) and some have been left natural.
Meandering country roads in the Atherton Tablelands
With an abundance of crystal clear water and cascading streams, it is no wonder Nerada Tea has been so successful. We did stop in at the plantation, learnt the history of tea and of course bought some samples. Our day finished with a visit to the Mungalli Creek Bio-Dynamic Diary, because we really had been enjoying their non-homogenised milk (it still has the cream on top), however as it was a Sunday they were a little too busy to enjoy sampling their wares.
Tea! The Nerada Tea Farm
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