Wet, Wet, Wet

Just how young Australia is, is evident in our historical sites. Sure the Trial Bay Gaol is a magnificent structure in a too die for location, but the history is short lived. Originally built in the 1870’s, the location was selected so the prisoners could build a breakwater, creating a safe harbour between Brisbane and Sydney. However, the scheme was a failure. The breakwater was constantly washed away and having spent over $130,000, only 15 metres survived. The project and gaol was no longer.

Trial Bay Gaol

Then, in WWI the gaol was used as a camp for people of German descent. Although interned, they enjoyed much freedom and were treated very well. End of Trial Bay Gaols short history. Today the gaol is a solitary, yet picturesque ruin exuding a great atmosphere of mystery.
Intermittent showers continued to fall from the silvery blobs in the sky, but we took advantage of the brief intervals to exercise our legs in the local National Parks. Stretching along the coast from Crescent Head to South West Rocks, Hat Head National Park is long and narrow, hugging the coast. Unfortunately, like so much of the NSW coast Bitou Bush has taken over.

Bitou Bush as far as the eye can see

We bush bashed our way around the headland, stopping to glimpse at views out to a distant sea. The National Park is also home to the Smoky Cape Lighthouse- the most elevated in NSW. The steep incline to the lighthouse sure was a workout..... and preparation for a much harder walk to come.

Smoky Cape Lighthouse

With uninviting ocean conditions, and therefore no frolicking in the waves, we continued north. A pit stop at Nambucca Heads to see old friends also provided us with a pod of dolphins surfing the waves! I have never seen so many dolphins together all having a grand old time.
With the rain preferring the coast, we headed inland via the Waterfall Way. One of the most scenic drives in NSW, the steep, narrow winding track (opps, I mean road) put on a spectacular show. The recent rain produced many waterfalls that you drive past on your climb higher to the heavens above. This is rainforest country, the moisture ever present in the air and a series of the greenest, rambling hills we ever did see.

Dangar Falls, Dorrigo

The morning mists that hung around till lunch coupled with a rich, fertile soil meant you could quite literally sit and watch the grass grow before your eyes. I could never live here. Sure the setting is straight from a romance novel, rolling hills, misty mornings, cosy cottages with crackling fires, but the lawn mowing was non-stop. The sound of which grates me more than fingernails slowly, screeching down a blackboard over and over.
We had not left the rain behind, but at least under the thick canopy of the rainforest we were sheltered from the drops. Through the mud we scrambled, although enjoying the vista and vividness of this World Heritage Park. After lazing about in Sydney, we were back walking for a good part of the day. Aaahhhh, nothing beats the feeling of ripping off the shoes at the end of long, hard walk. .....that was until we discovered the contingent of leeches, who had come along for the ride. Urrgghh. We looked like we had been in a fierce battle, given the amount of blood that seemed to piss out for hours afterward.
So, back it was to the coastal town of Iluka, situated on the opposite side of the Clarence River from Yamba. Iluka is home to another World Heritage Rainforest, but fortunately no leeches. Nearly losing their World Heritage status, as the dreaded Bitou Bush and other invasive weeds threatened to take over, the town banded together for a huge Landcare operation. The status and rainforest was saved for us all to enjoy.

Littoral Rainforest, Iluka

Our walking complete, we hit the road again until we landed in Kingscliff, on the NSW side of the Gold Coast. Similar to Noosa, it is a pretty spot. We set up a beachfront lodging and settled ourselves for a few days. However, Cyclone Ului launched her fury whipping up the ocean, so that the waves thundered and roared throughout the night. However, the days were now clear and bright, so with our enthusiasm for exercise we tackled the big one- Mt Warning. Being the first place in NSW to see the sun in winter, we knew she was tall. I had also done the walk before- some 30 years ago and didn’t remember it being that strenuous. My 8 year old legs were obviously in better condition than they are now, for today both Dave and I ‘recovering’ and in a little pain. The scenery on the walk is spectacular, but the walk is a challenge.

Scenery, Mt Warning 'walk'

Imagine putting your stairmaster on the steepest setting possible and pumping away at a moderate pace for just over 2 hours. Throw in some muddy sections and rocks to negotiate and you begin to get the idea. Then, when you think you have made it, keep your stairmaster on the same setting and place it up against a wall, at an angle of 120 degrees.

Nearly there... climbing Mt Warning

Grab a thick chain to hold onto, so you don’t fall down and you have finally made it..... From the top, across the mountains, you can see as far as Coolangatta, in the brief periods that the clouds allow you to do so.

Up in the clouds, atop Mt Warning

Yet, what goes up must come down.

Enjoying the walk......

Now instead of the stairmaster, imagine you do thousands of squats, as you brace your thighs down the steep, never ending incline. Our legs may disagree, but the walk was worth it and dinner never tasted soooooo good.