Wednesday, December 23, 2009

Merry Christmas to us!

After 15 months of travelling Port Lincoln is one of our favourite spots. A visit to the Information Centre enabled us to pick up a key to enter Memory Cove, within the Lincoln National Park. This fragile, but beautiful area can only be accessed by a maximum of 10 cars a day. After battling the 4WD track, we reached the white sandy beach in a very tranquil cove. The area is reminiscent of Wineglass Bay in Tasmania, complete with orange lichen on the granite rocks.

Memory Cove, Lincoln National Park

However, the difference here is the wildlife. Sure there were plenty of roos and emus, but also a rouge sea lion. Turning our heads to investigate the slapping sound in the water we discovered it was said sea lion playing with a recently caught fish. As we watched he tossed the helpless creature in the air and then chased the stunned fish. After enjoying his play he then proceeded to devour his catch. Yet the most tantalising sea lion experience was yet to come. Hopping on board a boat we headed out to Blyth Island, which is protected from the Great Whites that frequent this area. As the engines were cut and we idled closer to shore, the colony of adolescent sea lions awoke from their slumber. Just like bored teenagers they came alive at the prospect of fun and literally bounded into the water to meet us.

Sea Lions everywhere!

Swimming closer to our new friends, it was quite evident that they mimicked our every move. If we did a tumble turn in the water, so did they. If we duck dove and stuck our flippers out of the water so did they. Some were shy and liked to just watch the shenanigans unfolding. I will never forget swimming over a bed of sea grass only to find a little pup trying to hide, his big puppy dog eyes watching my every move.

Underwater and face to face..... so cute

We soon became very comfortable in the water and Dave and I got chatting, taking a break from our swimming antics. With that ‘someone is staring at me feeling’ I looked to my left- ahhhh I was face to face with a sea lion! He had simply popped up, wanting to join in our conversation. Putting out our hands, our ‘friend’ nuzzled to say hello (probably hoping we had a fish). They really are the cutest creatures, and act just like naughty puppies. However, Port Lincoln is more famous for its tuna, so of course we should swim with these too. Wild tuna are caught far out at sea in the Great Australian Bight and brought in to be fattened up in pens. It was within one of these pens (purpose built for tourists, so not as heavily stocked) that we got to know the tuna a little more intimately. Well, that is Dave did. I refused to get in the water with these huge bullets of sheer muscle.

The 'big' tuna

From an underwater viewing platform, I watched as they darted around Dave, but did not run into him. We were given fish to feed the tuna and Dave bravely held one in his hand, whilst in the water. A big Daddy tuna spied this tasty morsel and made a beeline.


Click to see me feed a tuna!

Opening his mouth wide, he was right on track to chomp the fish...... and Dave’s hand. Dave said it felt like being hit by a hammer. It was only when he got out of the water and saw the blood, that he realised the razor sharp (yet tiny) teeth had penetrated the skin.

What a shot! Tuna about to chomp.....

Sashimi revenge. I’ll just stick to eating these fish. A day trip to Coffin Bay was the perfect place to chill after all the aquatic excitement. The area seems to have a certain gentleness about it. The day was hot, but at a deserted beach the calm powder blue bay waters soothed us.

G'day from Coffin Bay

This is a great ‘get away from it’ place, but evidently gets pretty crowded in January. With Christmas approaching we left Port Lincoln, with no real destination in mind. The Eyre Peninsula is made up of many bays, so we moseyed around them all until we wanted to settle for the night. We had thought of staying at Lucky Bay- that is until we arrived. Lucky Bay is no more than a shanty town, with a ramshackle assortment of dwellings lining the shoreline. Our drive led us to Whyalla. The Queen has visited here twice, so we thought it couldn’t be that bad. The town, much like Newcastle in Sydney is the second largest city in South Australia and a major steel producing centre. Towering chimneys, portworks and furnaces lurched into view, but with the temperature soaring, it was home. As the thermometer reached 43, we headed for the beach. The eternal flames from the gas plant close by burnt as we swam, yet the water was remarkably crystal clear. A little too clear for me with a sting ray skimming the sea bed all too vivid.

Mr Sting Ray....

Midnight brought a southerly wind and a welcome cool change. Enough to revive us to continue our journey. It was Christmas Eve and we decided to head to Port Pirie for Christmas Day. The road took us through Port Augusta. Memories flooded back. We had been here 8 months prior- the starting point of our outback odyssey north to Darwin. How much we have seen and done since then.

With the only pub open for Christmas Day in Port Pirie fully booked, we stocked up with a kilo of prawns, a dozen oysters and put the champers on ice.

Christmas Day picnic

Our eyes opened to a sunny Christmas day, while our ears heard all the tunes from the Oklahoma musical being sung live. Where was this coming from? More memories came flooding back- a local sings, while swimming in the river, every morning. It had been winter when we were last here and he had sung from the shore, but today he was swimming past our home. No wonder the tunes sounded a little 'gargled'.
Click on video to see the musical talent of Port Pirie....

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