Tuesday, November 17, 2009

Bright Lights, bright faces

Having stocked our wine cellar, it was time to leave the green and lush Margaret River region. As we passed through Yallingup and Dunsborough we made a mental note of the towns we would like to head back to one day on a 'wine holiday’.

Yallingup coastine

Arriving in Busselton, we were keen to walk the famous 2 kilometre jetty, the longest in the southern hemisphere. At the end of the jetty is a large aquarium and Dave was excited at the prospect of seeing a Sea Dragon in the wild. Alas..... we were only able to walk a mere 200 metres- the jetty was closed for repairs after a recent fire.

The 2km long jetty, Busselton

We had to be content with an ice-cream by the seaside instead.
Bunbury, were we where to stay for the evening, is a prime example of the recent WA boom. Enduring the many steep steps to the top of the Tall Tower Lookout, 360 degree views showed the contrast between the new and the original town, which seemed to have burst at the seams. Shiny new roads, houses and shops, have tripled the size of the town. Yet, all this development has been done sympathetically with the land. Even the mangroves, which are the only ones to be found this far south (the closest are 500kms north) have been looked after. A boardwalk takes you on a journey through the mangrove swamp and along the way signs provide information on the town’s history to keep you entertained.
But, the most entertaining feature of Bunbury was enjoyed the next morn- swimming with wild bottlenose dolphins. A section of the bay, known as The Lounge room, was a short boat ride away. Once there, we spotted about 20 dolphins. Having been away over the cold winter, this is the spot where boys, girls and adults come to catch up for a gossip and play from November to April.

Dolphins swimming towards us in 'The Loungeroom'

We were not allowed to swim over to them. Instead we played in the water nearby and watched as they slowly came nearer and checked us out. The dolphins preferred to circle us from about 20 metres away, but did end up venturing quite close, even swimming directly underneath us.
With our Sydney visitors only a day away, we bade farewell to our dolphin friends and edged closer to Perth. Hugging the coast we made a stop to see more thrombolites. Still just look like rocks, but it is pretty cool to have now seen 3 of the very few sites in the world where they exist.

Thrombolites

We must admit that as we entered the city of Perth the stress levels rose. Having been outback for so long now the traffic lights, motorways and volume of traffic took some getting used to- and Perth is not that big a city! But, all our stresses were soon forgotten as two familiar Sydney faces joined us for a long weekend of fun.
With only 4 days to play with Sammi and Michael (AKA Ken), Dave and I planned an itinerary and played the role of tour guides. Having arrived at 11pm the night before, followed by a few drinks, we eased into the first day with bacon and eggs followed by a saunter around Kings Park. One of the largest inner city parks in the world, Kings Park overlooks the city and Swan River.

View across to Perth from Kings Park

The many gardens, which showcase plants from around the state (including our favourite Boabs), and acres of silken green grass sooths away any stress.

Sam, Michael & Leisa at Boab Tree, Kings Park

Blessed with a warm sunny day, we were soon relaxed and feeling a real holiday ambience.
Lunch overlooking Cottesloe Beach was followed by a walk along the water’s edge at Scarborough Beach, were we felt the soothing feel of sand between the toes. With these pristine beaches mere kilometres from the city centre, we were falling more in love with Perth with each passing minute.



Michael, Sam, Leisa, Rottnest Island

Just 19 kilometres off the coast of Perth lies Rottnest Island. Pristine waters surround the island, but with the water being a little on the cold side, only the boys ventured in for a dip. Dave assured us it was worth the initial chill, with tropical fish and the world’s most southerly coral specimens. But, it was the resident land animals we were keen to find- the Quokka’s.









Friendly Quokka's, Rottnest Island

Looking like a cross between a very small wallaby and possum, we soon discovered they were everywhere, and rather friendly. Mum with a bub in her pouch even ventured into the waterside pub! ‘Rotto’ is well worth a visit- only an hour by ferry, yet an entire world away......
The port city of Fremantle, 30 minutes south of Perth, was an unexpected surprise for all. Although still very much a working port, Fremantle is a relaxed, yet stylish town. Many old restored buildings combined with fashion boutiques, cafes, buskers and waterfront eateries gives ‘Freo’ a certain charm that we have not found elsewhere. Tour Leader Dave took us on a walking tour of the town.

Sammi and Leisa atop the Round House, Fremantle

We were soon inside a tunnel which had been carved through the limestone cliffs in the early whaling days. This led us to the top of the Round House- the oldest public building in WA (and once used as a prison). From here we could gaze out to sea, but also along the waterfront to our lunch destination- the Little Creatures Brewery. As boats bobbed in the water we dined on gourmet pizza and sampled a few of the beers.

Michael and Dave, Little Creatures Brewery

Walking off lunch we checked out the Freo Festival set up in the park opposite. Then it was off to Monument Hill. The highest point in town, we had 360 degree views across to Rottnest Island and Perth.
Our last day together arrived all too soon. A stroll along the main streets of Subiaco completed the ‘Taste of Perth’ tour. With many heritage listed homes, nice shops and parks, ‘Subi’ is yet another attractive feature of Perth. We were all agreed- Perth is small but alive, pretty and dramatic, laid back, yet cutting edge- we love it!

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