Friday, October 9, 2009

The not so big banana

Supplying 70% of WA’s winter vegetables, Carnarvon is in located in the heart of the food bowl, on the Coral Coast. However, we feel this stretch should be renamed the Windy Coast. Alas, from August to March each year winds gust along this stretch of coastline, making our outdoor lifestyle a little more indoors. Most of the trees here grow at 90 degrees! Still the winds have not been too bad and we have enjoyed some wind free time.

The Big Banana, Carnarvon

The region is akin to a smaller version of the Sunshine Coast, complete with a ‘Big Banana’. That is the Sunshine Coast of the 1950’s, before development took over. We had plans to catch a movie, but with only one film shown once a day at 11.30am, it was not to be.
Carnarvon is famous for the HMAS Sydney II, which was sunk by the German Raider, the Kormoran, killing all 645 on board. The coastline here is rough and perilous, so one can only imagine the terror of that fateful night in 1941. Yesterday’s enemies are today’s friends and monuments of both the Sydney and Kormoran make a poignant reminder to the waste of human life.
The heritage precinct of Carnarvon gives a taste of life in the late 1800’s, when a one mile jetty was made to transport wool and livestock to awaiting ships.

One mile jetty, Carnarvon

We could only walk about three quarters of the jetty, a fire having destroyed the remainder (however it is being restored). Perhaps just as well we could not walk out to sea any further, it was a long way and it was very windy. The precinct also showcases the lighthouse keeper’s cottage, furnished from an early moment in time. The railway shed displays a lifeboat from the Kormoran, the only relic to have been found, until the discovery of both the ships last year.

Lighthouse keepers cottage, as seen from the water tank

With a rare still day, we set off for the Quobba Blowholes, 75 kilometres north. Powerful ocean swells force water through sea caves and out of narrow holes in the rocks. The subsequent jets of water project high up into the air and it was like watching a firework display. We may not have had the pretty colours, but the sheer force did produce the requisite accompanying sound.

Quobba Blowholes

The coastline was serene but very rugged, however we managed to find a grotto to plonk our bums for a picnic lunch. No need to do a whale tour here- while we ate a pod of whales where breaching a mere 50 metres from the shore.

Snorkelling lagoon at Quobba Blowholes

With the winds still at bay, it was off to Miaboolya Beach. The beach is not really one for sunbaking, but is popular for fishing. However, having snorkelled and been privy to the underwater lives of these tasty morsels, we found ourselves not able to fish and ‘kill’ them. Instead, we walked the beach collecting rubbish (which we even recycled). What are we becoming? Lucky Dave shaved off his mo and beard, I may have thought he was turning alternative.

Collecting rubbish, Miaboolya Beach

This morning we actually awoke to liquorice coloured clouds and knew that our 6 months with no rain was finally over. The first few spots arrived and we got a little excited. Alas, the drizzle was soon over and the sun was beaming down once more. Still it gave us an excuse to drive to a few plantations and purchase fruit and veg.

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