Thursday, April 23, 2009

The green green grass of home

We were finally levered off Amanda’s very comfy lounge and the Foxtel remote prised from our hand. It took a day for us to settle back into our lifestyle, but are both sporting Cheshire grins now.
Me at the start of the Great Ocean Road (in pylon)

Heading out of Melbourne we stopped off at Torquay, to enjoy one of the best coffees to date (on par with Fioro Cafe in Sydney). Home of iconic Australian surf ware brands, we shuffled past the many outlets- no room for more clothes in this camper.
The start of the Great Ocean Road was a vision to behold. I took time to imprint the ocean scene to memory, opening and closing my eyes to ensure I had it just right. I love the ocean and know once we head ‘up the guts’ the rolling waves will be replaced with red dust . Bells Beach had just had its annual surfing contest and we stopped to watch those brave enough to enter the ‘very cold’ water. The beach is nothing to rave about, but the break off the reef is.
Bells Beach, Great Ocean Road

Home for the night was Lorne. The days are getting shorter and colder, however we can see how this spot would be popular in summer. We camped by the river, and with recent rains our door opened mere centimetres from the lapping water, and ducks.

The birds at our Lorne campsite were rather friendly- Cockie scared me a little...

An afternoon stroll along the beach led us to the pier. As Dave looked over the edge a huge Manta Ray swam by. This thing was huge- the width easily 3 metres.
The next day, our morning walk was to Erskine Falls, complete with water and many ferns. It sure was nice to see such greenery and water in drought effected Victoria.


Erskine Falls, Lorne

The coastline of the Great Ocean Road is most spectacular between Lorne and Apollo Bay and we lapped up every minute. Kennett River, about 20 kilometres from Lorne is home to the biggest koala population we have ever seen.
Cute koala, Kennett River

More than half a dozen were enjoying a nap in the warm sun (do they ever do anything else?). It was soon time for our rest too.

Real koala, Kennett River

Our home for the evening was a free camp at Aire River. The countryside reminded us of England- perhaps because it was so very green, and the river bordered by marshes. After months of dirt brown drought, it was nice to pull up and step out onto thick green grass. This area of Victoria is obviously still getting a decent rainfall.

The Aire River campsite is one of the overnight stops of the Great Ocean Walk. An 8 day trek, we are certain the Great Ocean Road has much more appeal. We walked a mere few metres of the track and boy that was enough for us. Perhaps having had our butts planted on a sofa for the past 2 weeks, we had lost some fitness. Or perhaps it was the fact that the bit we did was up a steep sand blast. However, the view to the valley below was worth it- so tranquil a setting with the river, defined by tall reeds, meandering through rolling green hills. It was tranquil from above, but as we descended and walked past the tall reeds a flock of hidden swamp birds took flight. That got the heart pumping.

It was not to be our only bird encounter for the evening. Dinner was ‘Leisa’s Special Cous Cous’. I include Chick Peas in this dish and had a giggle as I opened the tin, bought from Coles. Why did I giggle, because my Cousin Andrew has his face plastered all over it- check it out!! During dinner we were joined by a Tawny Frog Mouth Owl, settling on the ground a few metres from us. However, after dinner as Dave prepared our campfire, Mr Owl obviously took exception to Dave’s fire lighting skills and swooped past, clipping his ear! I’m glad it was him and not me!
I was excited for our next days stretch of the Great Ocean Road, which included the 12 Apostles (although there are only 8 left), Loch Ard Gorge, London Bridge, Razorback, the Blowhole and more. It was back in 1982 that I last ‘did’ the Great Ocean Road and have fond memories, especially as The Pirate Movie, starring Christopher Aitkens, was being filmed at Loch Ard Gorge, while we were there. I use to lurrrvve Christopher Aitkens, so was very excited, but no didn’t see him then. Today the formations, are still as impressive as my childhood memories. It is a powerful scene before you, watching the Apostles tempting the ocean to break their hold.
The 12 Apostles, Great Ocean Road


With these structures formed over millions of years, it made both of us feel very old to know that since out last visit London Bridge had fallen down. Back in 1990 one of the arches of London Bridge collapsed into the ocean below. A couple having an affair were stranded on the newly formed island and were rescued by helicopter, their indiscretion plastered all over the evening news.
London Bridge has fallen down, Great Ocean Road

Tonight we are settled in Port Fairy, a very pretty port town with many historic 19th century buildings. We are once again enjoying life on the road and all that it brings. I devour books as we travel. Ranging from romance and trash to thriller and insightful, I recently finished reading about the creation of the English Oxford Dictionary. This is not as boring as it sounds, but rather a tale of murder, madness and of course the English Oxford Dictionary. Enjoying a quiet relaxed moment after a days sightseeing, I educated Dave on the word Chaloner. He looked at me rather perplexed as I explained it is an obsolete name for a man who manufacturers shalloon. Still he looked perplexed until l explained shalloon is the woollen lining material for coats. Oh well, it keeps me sane and gives Dave a giggle.

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