Desert People

Want FLIES with that??

Perhaps Victoria is aboriginal for no water? We sure have not found a lake or river that is running, even at the Hattah Kulkyne National Park, where we were to enjoy another night of free camping. I do say enjoy, and we did, however the flies also seemed to enjoy our company a little too well. I guess with dry, empty lakes the flies thought we offered a little bit of salvation.

Group of Apostle birds, joining our campfire

As we headed further into Mallee country and the outback, the heat was ever present. I did enjoy the warm days, but as they can zap energy we opted to chill with our books and take a walk around the lake beds in the cool of dusk. With the ever present flies, it made it hard to relax, until I came up with my great invention....... a fly net food cover over the head. I was able to read and view the scenery all in the comfort of no flies! Dave said I looked like I was wearing a burqa and I mused that the desert women of Afghanistan are not so silly after all!

Enjoying a fly free cuppa and read!

Out here National Parks are made with the heat and flies in mind- there are walking tracks, but there are also driving discovery tracks. You grab a brochure at the start, available by reaching out from your car window, and read about the points of interest, which are numbered along the way. A great way to see the bush- from air conditioned, fly free comfort........
With the temperature predicted to soar further, we moved onto a ‘city’ and caravan park- Mildura. Aaaahhh, the great thing about built up areas- no flies. As we swam and lazed on the grass beside the pool, the discomfort of the day prior was soon a distant memory. It was a welcome, yet strange sight to see such thick, spongy green grass. Infact the whole town of Mildura was green and well watered, all compliments of the Murray River. However, with most of Victoria and SA on water restrictions and with no end to the drought in sight, I’m sure the residents of such suffering towns would not be too happy to know sprinklers are running 24/7 to keep what is traditionally desert land so green!
Having been to Toowoomba on our travels, we have seen where the Darling River starts its journey twisting and turning south. On a day trip exploring the Mildura area, we arrived at Wentworth- the destination of where the Darling River meets the Murray River. The rivers are quite full and it is hard to imagine that further down the Murray’s path she becomes drier, providing little water for our South Australian cousins.

The meeting point of the Darling and Murray Rivers

But it was soon back to the lake that once was, on a visit to Mungo National Park- once a massive inland lake, prior to the ice age that is. Mungo Lake was made famous by the skeletal discoveries of Mungo man and woman, confirming the existence of humans over 20,000 years ago. There have also been many prehistoric animal skeletons discovered, but the most famous landmark is the Great Wall of China, so formed by the drying lake.

The Great Wall of China

Mungo National Park is in true desert country, so again we set off on a 70km driving tour of the park. Along the way, we stopped to walk various sites. At each site we came across animal skeletons bleached white by the sun. We know animals die, but it seemed rather odd to have such abundance on view. Perhaps the heat is just too much for some. Until the late 70’s this area was a vast sheep station. The decaying relics, some of which date from the 1800’s, leave a permanent reminder of how tough life out here would have been. All that remains of one derelict homestead is the underground dugout, built to escape the searing summer heat.

Once a happy homestead. Notice dugout in background

At another the wool shed still stands, with the stench of sheep ‘shit’ and lanolin still lingering in its walls some 30 years later. The trip was worthwhile, but it was nice to know we do not have to make our living from such a harsh countryside!
Today having zig zagged between NSW and Victoria, we have arrived at Swan Hill. We are camped on the edge of the Murray, which is again providing water for a green campsite. Dave has thrown the yabby trap in, so tomorrow we may be feasting on a crustacean dinner!