Winter sun

Exactly why we aren't going in for a swim...

As the sun heated up, our next stop was the Yellow Water Wetlands of Kakadu. It was here that we took a boat cruise through the South Alligator River and onto the wetlands. A perfect way to see the many, many crocodiles and birdlife of the floodplains. It sure was amazing to see many different species of birds at the waters edge, mere centimetres from a croc’s mouth. However, crocs are actually lazy and these birds were in no danger.

This croc seemed to follow us

We got a good deal and did this cruise twice- once at sunset and once in the early morn. Each time had an abundance of life, but also heat. The days were reaching over 34 degrees and with the sun dancing off the water, it did not make for a comfortable ride.
With a dip in cool water needed it was off to the Falls region. A short boat ride took us to the base of Twin Falls were we could walk and marvel at the beauty of the water cascading over the towering escarpment. The water was crystal clear and very inviting, however we could not even dip as toe in for fear of those pesky crocs. You could swim here up until 2002, however with 8 crocs trapped last season and 3 to date this season, it is closed to bathers. But it did look so inviting.

Twin Falls


One theory as to why crocs have ventured up to the Twin Falls area is the dreaded cane toad. Cane toads have killed vast numbers of snakes and goannas, eaters of tasty crocodile eggs. With no one to eat the eggs, more crocodile hatchlings are surviving. An increased number of crocs means more territory is needed.
Both the Twin Falls and Jim Jim Falls roads were 4WD only, however unlike some tracks were actually fun.


Stopped to help someone bogged, nearly became so ourselves....

Not too much bouncing, but much sand and twists and turns, and the occasional river crossing. The deepest crossing was 55 cm’s- not enough to do any damage but enough to test the vehicle.

River crossing on the way to Twin Falls

The walk to Jim Jim, rated as difficult, was not as fun. The tall, engulfing escarpment was a majestic sight, however was it worth the walk......... It would be amazing to see these falls in the wet, by helicopter though (the only accessible way in the wet).

Jim Jim Falls









I did not make it for a swim, it just wasn’t worth scrambling over yet another boulder for. No wonder this is one place without crocs. After a hard days walking, I did appreciate our picturesque campsite at Garnamarr. Now that we were away from the wetlands, there were no mozzies, and we were able to enjoy a beverage while watching the distant escarpment change colour in the setting sun.
The Mary River Region was the last of the 7 regions of Kakadu for us to visit. Apart from watching the setting sun from Ubirr Rock, it would also have to be my favourite. After travelling a long and dusty dirt road you arrive at Gunlom, a lush oasis, complete with kiosk. This was rather a funny sight, quite literally in the middle of nowhere you could buy a meat pie, quiche or hamburger. Of course with such a good cook on board, we did not purchase such. After setting up camp, it was off for a swim. Even in the dry, the waterfall is still flowing and with no crocs in residence here, it was nice to be able to swim in the plunge pool at the base of the falls. It is such a pretty spot, so we decided to stay for two nights. A cool swim, no bugs of any description, could it get any better? The dingo puppy playfully bounding near our campsite made it so. The next day we braved the very steep, 500 metre climb to the top of the falls and were rewarded with not only a great view, but also our own private plunge pool.

Top of the Falls, Gunlom. Don't jump Dave....

With July 1 approaching, Territory Day, we headed for Katherine to be part of the celebrations. There are many things you can still do in the Territory- smoke in bars- and buy fireworks! You can only buy them on Territory Day though, but they sell all sorts of explosives that were never legal in NSW. Dave bought the biggest, meanest looking fireworks available and some parachutes, ‘just like when we were kids’. The seller asked if we knew were to set them off, we replied in the negative. Then with a big smile on his face, he said- ‘anywhere you want to!’ There really are no rules up here. Officially they can only be let off between 6 and 11pm on Territory Day, however I suspect we will hear them for the next week............


Dave and our fireworks!

We are staying in the grounds of the Springvale Homestead near Katherine. As walked to the nearby helipad, there were already a crew of fellow campers letting off their crackers. But it was Dave’s ‘biggie’ that caught everyone’s attention. It was certainly the loudest I have ever heard and pretty dam spectacular too.

Kakadu and don't

With the Darwin sunsets too good to refuse, we enjoyed our last night again sitting on the warm sands of Mindil Beach, savouring a chilli squid dish. It was goodbye to Darwin and hello to the wetlands.
Mary River National Park (proposed) is butt up against Kakadu, but not as frequented. While the landscapes may not be as stunning, the wildlife is teeming. It was here, at Shady Camp that we saw our first crocodile in the wild. A huge 6 metre beast slunk past us, giving us a chill. We were safe behind a viewing platform, but his menacing eyes said it all. However, it was the smaller (yet still big) specimen on the river bank that had us entranced. He sat a mere few meters away from us, his mouth open wide in an aggressive pose (they also do this to keep their brains cool).

Mr Croc, amazing to see in the wild though

The dry season is a time for cool fire burn offs and a plume of smoke is a constant sight. Perhaps this grey haze confuses the wallaby’s, as we had 4 jump out in front of us during the middle of the day. We didn’t hit any- no wallaby stew for dinner.
As we entered Kakadu, it was only fitting that a Jabiru (Australia’s only stork) was on hand to greet us. This tall, orange legged bird did seem rather out of place beside the road, but the wetlands are never far away. During our 10 months of travels to date, we have enjoyed many National Parks, each with their own delights, however Kakadu is stunning. Broken up into 7 regions, our first foray was in the East Alligator region, in the shadow of the Arnhem Land escarpment. Even though we are in the dry the floodplains are still wet in parts creating a haven for birdlife. It is rather relaxing to watch the many species forage for food amongst the waterlilies. But it is not safe to enter the water anywhere in Kakadu. The saltwater crocodiles rule the roost here. With a life span reaching into hundreds of years, these remnants from the dinosaur age become sexually active at age 30. Having been hunted to near extinction until 1971, croc numbers have recovered dramatically with many males now sexually active and consequently very aggressive. With no fear of humans many rock holes are now closed to swimming.

Rock Art, Ubirr

Ubirr, one of the main rock art sites is also in this region, within the stone country perched above the floodplains. The top end of Australia is known amongst Australian Aborigines as ‘rich man’s land’. Food and water is plentiful, with no need to hunt for up to 8 hours a day, as many others have had to do. With more spare time comes more elaborate rock art and cultural activities. Layer upon layer of rock art tell teaching stories, but we both liked the ‘menu board’ in ‘Grandma’s kitchen’ the best. X-ray art is the style of painting in this region and fine examples of several fish species, turtle, goanna and other dinner delicacies adorned the cave wall menu.

The menu board, Ubirr

But, the best of Ubirr is presented when you reach the top of Ubirr Rock. The 360 degree view over the Nabab floodplain across to Arnhem Land is stunning. Rich green lands reach out to the escarpment and are filled with life. Watching the sun go down ends a rewarding day. It is no wonder this view is used in the current NT campaign (which you have probably seen on TV).

Wish you could see all of the view with me, Ubirr Rock

However one of our best days yet was to be followed by one of our worst nights yet. Kakadu is home to over 10,000 insect species and I think a representative from each was sent to infiltrate our camper. We were camped at Merl, within Kakadu National Park, and apparently known for its bugs. We did finally manage to bug proof ourselves for the night, however the constant buzz of mosquitoes hovering outside was ever present, broken only by the howl of a dingo. Dave braved venturing outside and was stunned by the sight of mozzies covering the entire camper- spaced about 5cm apart.

Art class, Merl Campground

Still ‘Merl’ was not all bad and the following day we were treated to a traditional painting lesson with a couple of artists from Arnhem Land. The art class is not publicised as too many people have turned up in the past, so it was only the few of us who had braved the mozzie mayhem. I used a traditional brush made from a bull rush, but did not have the 20 years experience of ‘Joe’.

Joe and Leisa with paintings (Leisa needs more practice)

The caravan park in Jabiru is resort class, so we cut short our stay at Merl and I am happy again enjoying the pool and bug free nights. From here we ventured to Nanguluwur and Nourlangie- home of the best rock art in Kakadu. Contact art- when the aborigines first met white man- is present here and includes a ship and many lace gloves, worn by English ladies of the time.

Contact Art- ship- Nanguluwur

However, the days here are hot, a dry 34 degrees. The weather is very dehydrating and energy zapping. After days of exploring in this heat, we are enjoying a rare ‘rest’ day to recover and recharge to explore more of this Kakadu.
Nabulwinjbulwinj man (he committed incest) at Noourlangie

Big Kids

Hoping he turns into a prince........

Ah, the joys of being a kid again. Driven around town, shouted lunch and dinner and taken to a crocodile park. Dave and I got to enjoy all that and more, when his folks joined us for a week in Darwin.
The week in Darwin felt like a ‘real holiday’. Palm trees lining the beach, endless sunny days and visiting all the tourist hot spots has put us in a real holiday mood. We checked our camper into the caravan ‘resort’, while Don & Brenda checked into Fawlty Towers. In actual fact their cabin was very nice, however a few glitches did provide an entertaining Fawlty Towers episode. The new Manager could not get the stove working either, but never fear, a portable cooker was brought to the room. Perhaps one of the resident frogs had tampered with it. Don was forever removing a frog from the ‘white house’, however a new one always seemed to be on hand to take up residency.

Hiding in the Botanic Gardens


When in a big city we quite often enjoy a saunter in the Botanical Gardens, and the Darwin display did not disappoint. Being one of the rare Botanic Gardens in a tropical region, it gives an insight into tropical vegetation, including a rainforest, wetland and the dreaded mangroves. I’m not a fan of mangroves, as they bring the bitey, itchy, scratchy midges which delight in biting every inch of available skin.

Don, Brenda, Leisa watching the sunset, Mindil Beach


The famous Mindil Beach Markets, whilst not stocking a great range of wares, certainly was a highlight. With over 50 different food stalls on offer, you are sure of finding something to suit your taste buds. With food in hand it is then time to hit the warm sand of Mindil Beach to watch the setting sun. We have all seen plenty of sun sets in our lifetimes, but this is without a doubt one of the best. It is not often in Australia that you get to see the sun setting over the ocean. But, here the sun descends to the horizon over the Timor Sea, creating a golden shimmer across the water. Listening to the ambient music from the markets, we sat and watched the sun set on another tropical day, the red sky slowly fading to black.
The Timor Sea is mesmerising, even without the beauty of a setting sun. What better way to enjoy her serenity than a seafood lunch on her shore. Thank you to Don & Brenda who spoilt us with one such lunch. As we dined palms danced in the breeze, the sun flitted across the water and a goanna came to check us out.

Our lunch guest

Such a relaxed lunch is a far cry from the stress we have both experienced whilst working in Sydney. However, it also lets us really enjoy how stress free we now are.
The weather forecast is the same every day up here- cloudless blue sky and sunny. However, we did experience a cold snap. The temperature plummeted to 28 degrees for a couple of days, but we are back over 30 now. Warm enough for me to go swimming again.

So close..... so big....


Lucky our visit to Crocosaurus Cove was warm enough to swim, otherwise we may have missed out on a swim with the crocs! (You swim in a pool next to the croc enclosure). It was a great day out with the awesome Northern Territory saltwater crocodiles. Some of the largest in captivity were on display, but the cutest were the 200 baby crocodiles in the nursery. If only they stayed that cute.

Baby crocs, Crocosaurus Cove


Sweetheart would certainly not be described as cute. Accidently killed while being removed in 1979, this cantankerous croc is HUGE. He is now stuffed and on display at the Museum. It is really mind boggling how big these creatures can get. We just hope to not encounter one in the wild too close!

Dave croc wrestling, Darwin Museum

The Museum is well worth a visit with an aboriginal art collection, animal displays over time and a feature exhibit to Cyclone Tracy. The exhibition lets you experience the devastation with photos, displays and an actual sound recording from the night. The wind made even more menacing by the sound of corrugated iron, ripped from its foundations, scraping against all in its path.


Don, WWII Oil Storage Tunnel

Our history lesson continued with a tour through the WWII Oil Storage Tunnels. These relics are a network of steel lined concrete tunnels built to store oil after the Japanese bombed Darwin’s above ground stores. However, completed after the war, they were never used. Today they are a subterranean gallery exhibiting wartime photos.

Water, water

Eating the Yabbie's caught from Katherine River


Since Mataranka we have noticed a distinct lack of flies, not that we are complaining however! It is certainly nice to be fly net free.
Arriving in Katherine, our camp turned out to be a few hundred metres from the Katherine Hot Springs. Again these were not really hot and provided a welcome dip to escape the heat. The locals also enjoyed cooling off here and Dave certainly proved a hit with the kids. At one stage he had an aboriginal child on each of his arms and one clinging to his neck.

Springvale Homestead


We will pass through Katherine again on our journey west, so we were able to relax a little. After a morning cooling off in the spring again, we set off for the historic Springvale Homestead. Arriving in time to join the free history talk, we found the stories of its being and the floods very interesting. The grounds also accommodate campers, and with a pool filled by a natural spring, we may just stay here on our return.
Of course the highlight out here is Nitmiluk National Park (formally Katherine Gorge National Park). Having been previously ‘gorged out’, we are happy to say this one is worth it! A long and hot, yet picturesque walk was rewarded with a swim in the gorge. We are certainly looking forward to a 3 gorge cruise we have planned for our next stay.
After 3 days in the town of Katherine, we moved on to camp in the Nitmiluk National Park at Leliyn (Edith Falls). This spot is paradise. Not far from the lush green camp sites is a large pandanus fringed plunge pool, at the base of Edith Falls. With the temperature soaring towards 34 degrees, the water was very inviting. Apparently 6- 8 freshwater crocodiles also live in this pool, however unlike their saltwater cousins, they leave humans alone and are no threat.
After a blissful night’s sleep, we set off on the Leliyn Trail, a 3 kilometre round trip, that climbs to the top of the escarpment and then down to the pools located at the top of the falls. The walk gives fantastic views of the river below. Taking a dip in the top pools, with their crystal clear water, is our idea of heaven, and it was hard to say goodbye.
Top Pool, Edith Falls



Edith Falls

The Top End provides such a diverse and beautiful array of destinations. George Daly Hot Springs was to be our next stop. Alas, the vibe here was not good. A cloud of contagious anxiety seemed to permeate the air. Being only a couple of hours from Darwin and a long weekend, people were setting up camp, trying to force themselves to have a good time, on this short break. However, as we sat back and watched many couples just seemed to be bickering, hot and flustered. The hot springs here are hot- between 40 and 60 degrees. The most popular spot was where the Douglas and Daly Rivers met, a merging of cool and hot water. With cool water rushing over my toes and hot water lapping against my back, I couldn’t help but think it felt as if someone had peed in the water. On checking though, no one else was around.....
Dave and I were pleased to move on to the Litchfield National Park, just south of Darwin. We had been warned how busy it would be and about the lack of accommodation. This was not to be the case. Pandanus Caravan Park was only a week old, and we were the only caravan. The amenities were set up like an ensuite, which normally are shared. However, with the run of the park, Dave and I had a private bathroom each.
The good vibes were back. The local publican had told us you were allowed to take an esky to the Buley Waterhole. Paradise was back. What better refreshment than an icy cold beer while sitting in a waterhole, the cascading water creating a spa effect on your back. Aaaaahhhhh.

Leisa cooling off with a beer at Buley Waterhole

Litchfield National Park is now one of our favourites. A great diversity of attractions, with many walks rewarded with a cool swim, usually at the base of some magnificent waterfall. Wangi Falls

We enjoyed every minute- including the magnetic termite mounds. Up to two metres in height, these mounds are all in a north- south orientation- the insect worlds version of Stonehenge. The Lost City looks like ruins of some ancient civilisation, however are actually sandstone blocks and pillars weathered by the elements.

The Lost City, Litchfield National Park

To get here was 4WD only, yet an easy ‘comfortable’ track. But, it is Wangi Falls we could have swum at all day. How does the water stay so clear, clean and crisp.

De-gorgeous

Nestled between the West and East Macdonnell Ranges, Alice was a welcome pit stop. However, it was time to move on. We had travelled through the West Macdonnell Ranges, and stayed at many of the gorges on the way (as you may recall).
The East Macdonnell Ranges are not as frequented by tourists, but still home to some great spots. We soon arrived at Emily Gap and Jessie Gap, which both display aboriginal rock art from the caterpillar dreamtime. However, home for the night was a camp at Trephina Gorge.

Trephina Gorge

We did enjoy a walk around the rim of the gorge and yes, it was all very interesting, but both Dave and I were a little ‘gorged out’. You can have too much of a good thing.
So off north it was, crossing over the Tropic of Capricorn.

Crossing the Tropic of Capricorn

However, we were still very much in the outback, with the tropical climate a few hundred kilometres away yet. The Stuart Highway, which runs from Adelaide to Darwin, passes through some very remote countryside. Asthe sun beat down from above, the temperature rose. With nothing for miles between roadhouses, except for memorials to a few dead people (no disrespect intended), termite mounds and abandoned cars (if the aborigines run out of fuel with no funds for more, the car is simply left where it stopped), we certainly noticed the change in vegetation as the climate changed.
Travelling around 500 kilometres per day, we stopped at most of the roadhouses to stretch our legs and yack to the eccentric locals. With tourist dollars vital, many stops have a drawcard, such as the giant Anmatjere (aboriginal) man at Aileron. Ti Tree was the next roadhouse stop on the map, and we had planned to spend the night. Servicing many aboriginal communities in outlying areas, the place seemed to have a desolate feel about it, so we decided to push on.

Barrow Creek Pub


Loading the CD player with some dance tunes, we turned up the volume and funked our way to Barrow Creek. Built the same year as the Sydney Harbour Bridge, the Barrow Creek Pub is also a famous landmark (and not just because it is near the scene of the Falconio murder). In the tradition of shearers who wrote their name on a banknote and pinned it to the wall to ensure they could afford a drink when next they came through, travellers have left all sorts of items all over the walls, including bank notes.
Ten kilometres up the road we drove over the bloodstain (all that has been found of Falconio), and past the bushes that Joanne Lees hid in. Low lying bushes, were now dotting the countryside, a change from grasses, saltbush and granite outcrops of the previous few hundred miles.

Wycliffe Well Roadhouse.... and little green men


With not much else to entertain the eye, it is easy to get the imagination going. Wycliffe Well is one of the more legendary stops along the highway. Famous for documented UFO sightings, this roadhouse is decorated with alien figures and newspaper UFO reports. Dave said it was all a croc, however I think he was worried about a little green man encounter, as we continued on to the Devils Marbles to set up camp.

Our campsite location, Devils Marbles


These massive boulders of granite are precariously balanced on top of one another and look as if they could easily fall. Home for the night was at the base of these sacred boulders. We were both glad to have pushed on and stayed here for the night. As the sun rose in the morning the Devils Marbles glowed with a fiery intensity, and gave us some great photos. Here again, a dingo seemed to take a liking to me and provided an escort each time I ventured to the toilet.


Strongman Dave, Devils Marbles

Similar to Uluru, a sense of peace and tranquillity pervades the Devils Marbles, so we took time to soak up the ancient spirit with a walk, before heading off on the road again.
We had been warned not to stay in Tennant Creek and that the town with its boarded up windows and security screens, had an air of despair about it. We didn’t feel the town was that bad, but we did not stay for the night. Although, we did take the time to visit the Nyinkka Nyunyu Cultural Centre. The Cultural Centre was informative, with good story telling, however we felt overpriced. The mood was further spoilt by the cafe attached serving ‘authentic’ thai food.

Original homestead, Banka Banka


Our camp for the night was to be Banka Banka- part of the Kidman Cattle Station. This place is a pure oasis. Perched on a natural spring, we were told to use as much water as we wanted. After dust, dirt and water restrictions this was heaven. Our spot was right under a Boab tree, on the soft green grass. Aaaaahh. Banka Banka is the oldest pastoral lease in the NT (initially owned by the Bank of NSW), and the original homestead still stands. As the evening cooled we were treated to a very entertaining slide show about the station- our hosts displaying a raw and funny sense of humour!
With many underground springs the vegetation became taller, thicker and greener. Many wattle bushes were now lining the roadside and as we pulled into Newcastle Waters, it also marked the cut off point of Central Australia. We were now in the Top End, and a more tropical environment.
Newcastle Waters is a 1930’s droving town. As road trains have replaced the need for drovers the town has been abandoned, with only a couple of dwellings still in use. However, the National Trust has purchased a few of the historic buildings and you can take yourself through the old store and pub, complete with artefacts.
We were still getting used to seeing so much water, but it was welcomed with the temperature now commensurate with the tropics. The famous Daly Waters Pub, a popular icon, provided our next pit stop. The pub’s bar and walls are decorated in bras, undies and thongs as well as many other knick knacks. You could spend all day just looking at the walls!

Daly Waters Pub

As the clock ticked 5pm we pulled into the Elsey National Park at Mataranka. This National Park was once part of the Elsey Station made famous by Jeannie Gunn’s We of the Never Never. The remainder of the station is still in use, however the deeds have been handed over to the traditional Mangarayi owners.
We were now certainly closer to the streamy tropics. Palm trees lined the road and river banks, and we broke out the shorts and singlets. After setting up camp, there was only one thing to do- jump in the river and cool off. Such as strange concept at 5.30pm nearing in winter! This area is worth a visit. The National Park has many great short or long walks, each with its own highlight- relics of the Elsey Station, or a relaxing vista of palm trees dotting the crystal clear, spring water creek. But, the main highlight here is the thermal pools. At a temperature of 34 degrees, they are not too hot. We have spent much lazy time floating in the clear spring water dappled by the filtered light of a palm leaf.

Mataranka Thermal Pool, (yes that is me)Dave at Bitter Springs Thermal Pool





The Elsey homestead, recreated for the We of the Never Never movie, now stands near the thermal pools and is still set up as a home. Having seen the movie with my Mum and Grandma, it was fun to see the country, as well as the homestead and grave sites. However, it is amusing to note that Jeannie only lived on Elsey Station for less than a year, due to her husband’s death.
Elsey Homestead, We of the Never Never
Spot the odd one out- cast of We of the Never Never

A Town like Alice

Friendly Big Red

We were both very impressed with Alice Springs. Green lawns and tidy homes line the suburban streets and the city centre has every conceivable need catered for. The Cultural Precinct houses some amazing artworks, both indigenous and western.
However, Alice does have a seedier side. Littering the Mall are aborigines cast out from their own communities. Taking solace in alcohol, it is a sad sight, their faces and bodies ravaged by this drug. However, it has only been a mere 137 years since contact with white man in these parts and perhaps even a shorter time with alcohol. For a race that has lived and survived here for 40,000 years, it will be a few more generations yet before this clash of culture is steadied. But, it will happen.

Warrior Dave, Desert Park

Central Australia is desert country, but still very much alive. A trip to the Desert Park, gave us a chance to get up close and personal with local kangaroos, birds, lizards, snakes and the Thorny Devil.


Thorny Devil, Desert Park



We also enjoyed a bird of prey show and a talk and demonstration of aboriginal culture, by a local 'Arrante'.

Balancing a Coolamon on my head, Desert Park

Not far from Alice is Hermannsburg- established in the late 1880’s, it was the first Lutheran Aboriginal Mission. The town is restricted aboriginal land (and looks like a dump), but the historical precinct is open to all and includes the church, school, tannery and various whitewashed German farmhouse style buildings from the early mission times.

Hermannsburg Mission

It is also here that the famous aboriginal watercolour artist Albert Namatjira was born. In honour one of the buildings has been turned into a gallery displaying Albert’s and the Namatjira family’s work. Albert produced some great landscape paintings of the local area and was awarded citizenship 10 years before any other aboriginal. With a foot in each camp, the strain became too much and was a contributing factor of his early death.

Albert Namatjira's grave

The desert region contains many secret places. Palm Valley, in the Finke Gorge National Park, 20 kilometres from Hermannsburg is one such place. Palm Valley is a fascinating relic from literally millions of years ago, when Central Australia was covered in rainforest. With the gorge protecting from wind and the sandstone rock housing constant water, these Red Cabbage Palms have survived from the dinosaur age and are found nowhere else in the world.

Palm Valley

Sounds all very exciting, but here are the facts. The palms are not red, as the name suggests, and the 4WD track is diabolical. We abandoned the car with 1km to go and walked the rest of the way into the valley. The track is actually the dry Finke River (which is the oldest river in the world), and not really a driveable road at all. Some cars did attempt to drive all the way and were rewarded with damage to the underside.
At least on the way home, we toured a more sedate road and visited Simpsons Gap, another pretty waterhole.

Simpsons Gap

As it was now close to dusk, we also got to see the black footed rock wallaby. I am still amazed at how sure footed they are on the rocks.
Sturt's Desert Pea- such a pretty flower out here