Go West

After nearly two weeks ‘bush’ in Kakadu, we enjoyed our pit stop back in the city (Katherine). Katherine is most famous for her gorges, of which there are 13 in total. The only way to really see the gorges is via a boat, so we booked ourselves on a 4 hour tour. It really was most enjoyable cruising the river, watching the changing faces of the gorges and spotting the odd freshwater crocodile. We cruised through 3 of her gorges, the second by far the most impressive. With the gorge rim standing tall and mighty either side of us, it allowed us a respite from the sun. A safe swimming spot gave us the opportunity to cool off on the way back down the mighty Katherine River. After our swim, back on board we once again enjoyed the scenery and the sun now glistening across the water.

Katherine Gorge

But it was time to leave Katherine and our stay at Springvale Homestead. Goodbye to the hundreds of long neck turtles that stuck their heads out of the nearby creek, the pink lotus lilies lining the banks and the wallabies who came over for a pat on dusk.

Coming over to our door for a pat

The Flora River Nature Park is probably one of the smallest parks in the NT. The gravel road to get there was in very good condition, so it is probably not that frequented either. Along the drive we stumbled across a couple of drovers herding some good looking Brahman cattle, so it was only fitting that we put on some Glen Campbell and sung country songs till we reached our campsite. The woodland countryside was dry and dusty with no real green to break up the brown palette of colour. You can therefore imagine our amazement upon reaching the Flora River. This Nature Park is famous for limestone tufa (pronounced too-fa) formations. The river is rich in minerals and the calcium carbonate within precipitates onto rocks and plants to form bars across the river. Acting as a series of dams these ‘spongy rock’ formations create pretty cascades, running with the glowing blue/ green water. Bright green Pandanus Palms line the bank, dipping their leaves into the water, setting a very tropical scene. But, once again, no swimming for us (you guessed it- crocs).

Flora River

It was funny to stand with your back to the river and look at brown, dry scrub and then face the river and see pretty cascades set off by bright green and blue hues.
It was goodbye to Flora and hello to Gregory. As we approached the WA border the scenery is once again changing. While still made up of rocky escarpment and flooding rivers, Gregory National Park is greener and the escarpment a rich red colour. The red of this landscape reflects the sun, creating a brilliant blue sky above. If this is a taste of what is to come in WA, we are certainly looking forward to exploring her.
Our first walk in this National Park started at the base of tall escarpment walls. It was akin to standing in an ancient stadium, the walls towering above us on all sides. Likening ourselves to ancient gladiators preparing for battle we stopped to look and listen. The sun cast flickering shadows, dancing across the rockface. The only sound was a breeze rustling the many palms fringing the walls, creating a wind chime effect. No need for gladiators here. Our exploration led us to discover aboriginal rock art, nearly 40,000 years old.

Rock Art, Gregory NP

The art here is weathered and hard to distinguish, however been left to discover for yourself, gave it a certain appeal.
Gregory National Park, was once part of Bullita Station, until a devastating flood in 1977. A year later the national park was born, sometimes it is just too much to pick up the pieces. The original homestead and stockyards are maintained, stories and displays inside giving an insight into the harshness of station life.

Bullita Homestead

Since entering the Northern Territory, we have been very keen to see a Boab Tree. We have now certainly had our fill of these bizarre bulbous trees. Some many, many years old are metres wide- big enough to house a couple of people for a night! Gregory’s Tree, an ancient boab, is where the explorer set up camp in 1855- 6, the dates clearly etched into the boab trunk.

Gregory Boab Tree

The Keep River National Park, 3km from the Western Australian border is officially the Northern Territories smallest national park (at only 32km long!). However, it is one of the most impressive. Looking east you are looking at the Top End, look west and the Kimberleys enchant your eyes, the Keep River, literally the dividing line between the two landscapes. As a consequence there is a mix of plants and animals from each diverse habitat. This park even has the beehive formations of the Bungle Bungles. With $500 thousand recently spent on upgrading the road, this park is the NT’s best kept secret!



Bungle Bungle formations - Keep River National Park

Alas a few days later, it was time to cross over in WA- the only state we have not yet been to on our journey (although we have still to explore some states more thoroughly). The quarantine laws are quite strict entering WA, and all vehicles are searched. We had eaten all our contraband fruit and vegetables, but alas we would have to say goodbye to our faithful herb pot.

Campfire, Keep River

(Kel & Dean- your mint and parsley is now happily growing in the Rangers yard of the Keep River National Park!)
Kununurra- the gateway to the Kimberley region and our first stop in WA. With not much else for miles in any direction, it is a hub for many in this tourist season. Still we managed to negotiate a spot and have some very nice neighbours who invited us over for drinkies and many laughs- they are enjoying the ‘younger’ company.

Water, water

Eating the Yabbie's caught from Katherine River


Since Mataranka we have noticed a distinct lack of flies, not that we are complaining however! It is certainly nice to be fly net free.
Arriving in Katherine, our camp turned out to be a few hundred metres from the Katherine Hot Springs. Again these were not really hot and provided a welcome dip to escape the heat. The locals also enjoyed cooling off here and Dave certainly proved a hit with the kids. At one stage he had an aboriginal child on each of his arms and one clinging to his neck.

Springvale Homestead


We will pass through Katherine again on our journey west, so we were able to relax a little. After a morning cooling off in the spring again, we set off for the historic Springvale Homestead. Arriving in time to join the free history talk, we found the stories of its being and the floods very interesting. The grounds also accommodate campers, and with a pool filled by a natural spring, we may just stay here on our return.
Of course the highlight out here is Nitmiluk National Park (formally Katherine Gorge National Park). Having been previously ‘gorged out’, we are happy to say this one is worth it! A long and hot, yet picturesque walk was rewarded with a swim in the gorge. We are certainly looking forward to a 3 gorge cruise we have planned for our next stay.
After 3 days in the town of Katherine, we moved on to camp in the Nitmiluk National Park at Leliyn (Edith Falls). This spot is paradise. Not far from the lush green camp sites is a large pandanus fringed plunge pool, at the base of Edith Falls. With the temperature soaring towards 34 degrees, the water was very inviting. Apparently 6- 8 freshwater crocodiles also live in this pool, however unlike their saltwater cousins, they leave humans alone and are no threat.
After a blissful night’s sleep, we set off on the Leliyn Trail, a 3 kilometre round trip, that climbs to the top of the escarpment and then down to the pools located at the top of the falls. The walk gives fantastic views of the river below. Taking a dip in the top pools, with their crystal clear water, is our idea of heaven, and it was hard to say goodbye.
Top Pool, Edith Falls



Edith Falls

The Top End provides such a diverse and beautiful array of destinations. George Daly Hot Springs was to be our next stop. Alas, the vibe here was not good. A cloud of contagious anxiety seemed to permeate the air. Being only a couple of hours from Darwin and a long weekend, people were setting up camp, trying to force themselves to have a good time, on this short break. However, as we sat back and watched many couples just seemed to be bickering, hot and flustered. The hot springs here are hot- between 40 and 60 degrees. The most popular spot was where the Douglas and Daly Rivers met, a merging of cool and hot water. With cool water rushing over my toes and hot water lapping against my back, I couldn’t help but think it felt as if someone had peed in the water. On checking though, no one else was around.....
Dave and I were pleased to move on to the Litchfield National Park, just south of Darwin. We had been warned how busy it would be and about the lack of accommodation. This was not to be the case. Pandanus Caravan Park was only a week old, and we were the only caravan. The amenities were set up like an ensuite, which normally are shared. However, with the run of the park, Dave and I had a private bathroom each.
The good vibes were back. The local publican had told us you were allowed to take an esky to the Buley Waterhole. Paradise was back. What better refreshment than an icy cold beer while sitting in a waterhole, the cascading water creating a spa effect on your back. Aaaaahhhhh.

Leisa cooling off with a beer at Buley Waterhole

Litchfield National Park is now one of our favourites. A great diversity of attractions, with many walks rewarded with a cool swim, usually at the base of some magnificent waterfall. Wangi Falls

We enjoyed every minute- including the magnetic termite mounds. Up to two metres in height, these mounds are all in a north- south orientation- the insect worlds version of Stonehenge. The Lost City looks like ruins of some ancient civilisation, however are actually sandstone blocks and pillars weathered by the elements.

The Lost City, Litchfield National Park

To get here was 4WD only, yet an easy ‘comfortable’ track. But, it is Wangi Falls we could have swum at all day. How does the water stay so clear, clean and crisp.