Winter sun

Exactly why we aren't going in for a swim...

As the sun heated up, our next stop was the Yellow Water Wetlands of Kakadu. It was here that we took a boat cruise through the South Alligator River and onto the wetlands. A perfect way to see the many, many crocodiles and birdlife of the floodplains. It sure was amazing to see many different species of birds at the waters edge, mere centimetres from a croc’s mouth. However, crocs are actually lazy and these birds were in no danger.

This croc seemed to follow us

We got a good deal and did this cruise twice- once at sunset and once in the early morn. Each time had an abundance of life, but also heat. The days were reaching over 34 degrees and with the sun dancing off the water, it did not make for a comfortable ride.
With a dip in cool water needed it was off to the Falls region. A short boat ride took us to the base of Twin Falls were we could walk and marvel at the beauty of the water cascading over the towering escarpment. The water was crystal clear and very inviting, however we could not even dip as toe in for fear of those pesky crocs. You could swim here up until 2002, however with 8 crocs trapped last season and 3 to date this season, it is closed to bathers. But it did look so inviting.

Twin Falls


One theory as to why crocs have ventured up to the Twin Falls area is the dreaded cane toad. Cane toads have killed vast numbers of snakes and goannas, eaters of tasty crocodile eggs. With no one to eat the eggs, more crocodile hatchlings are surviving. An increased number of crocs means more territory is needed.
Both the Twin Falls and Jim Jim Falls roads were 4WD only, however unlike some tracks were actually fun.


Stopped to help someone bogged, nearly became so ourselves....

Not too much bouncing, but much sand and twists and turns, and the occasional river crossing. The deepest crossing was 55 cm’s- not enough to do any damage but enough to test the vehicle.

River crossing on the way to Twin Falls

The walk to Jim Jim, rated as difficult, was not as fun. The tall, engulfing escarpment was a majestic sight, however was it worth the walk......... It would be amazing to see these falls in the wet, by helicopter though (the only accessible way in the wet).

Jim Jim Falls









I did not make it for a swim, it just wasn’t worth scrambling over yet another boulder for. No wonder this is one place without crocs. After a hard days walking, I did appreciate our picturesque campsite at Garnamarr. Now that we were away from the wetlands, there were no mozzies, and we were able to enjoy a beverage while watching the distant escarpment change colour in the setting sun.
The Mary River Region was the last of the 7 regions of Kakadu for us to visit. Apart from watching the setting sun from Ubirr Rock, it would also have to be my favourite. After travelling a long and dusty dirt road you arrive at Gunlom, a lush oasis, complete with kiosk. This was rather a funny sight, quite literally in the middle of nowhere you could buy a meat pie, quiche or hamburger. Of course with such a good cook on board, we did not purchase such. After setting up camp, it was off for a swim. Even in the dry, the waterfall is still flowing and with no crocs in residence here, it was nice to be able to swim in the plunge pool at the base of the falls. It is such a pretty spot, so we decided to stay for two nights. A cool swim, no bugs of any description, could it get any better? The dingo puppy playfully bounding near our campsite made it so. The next day we braved the very steep, 500 metre climb to the top of the falls and were rewarded with not only a great view, but also our own private plunge pool.

Top of the Falls, Gunlom. Don't jump Dave....

With July 1 approaching, Territory Day, we headed for Katherine to be part of the celebrations. There are many things you can still do in the Territory- smoke in bars- and buy fireworks! You can only buy them on Territory Day though, but they sell all sorts of explosives that were never legal in NSW. Dave bought the biggest, meanest looking fireworks available and some parachutes, ‘just like when we were kids’. The seller asked if we knew were to set them off, we replied in the negative. Then with a big smile on his face, he said- ‘anywhere you want to!’ There really are no rules up here. Officially they can only be let off between 6 and 11pm on Territory Day, however I suspect we will hear them for the next week............


Dave and our fireworks!

We are staying in the grounds of the Springvale Homestead near Katherine. As walked to the nearby helipad, there were already a crew of fellow campers letting off their crackers. But it was Dave’s ‘biggie’ that caught everyone’s attention. It was certainly the loudest I have ever heard and pretty dam spectacular too.

Kakadu and don't

With the Darwin sunsets too good to refuse, we enjoyed our last night again sitting on the warm sands of Mindil Beach, savouring a chilli squid dish. It was goodbye to Darwin and hello to the wetlands.
Mary River National Park (proposed) is butt up against Kakadu, but not as frequented. While the landscapes may not be as stunning, the wildlife is teeming. It was here, at Shady Camp that we saw our first crocodile in the wild. A huge 6 metre beast slunk past us, giving us a chill. We were safe behind a viewing platform, but his menacing eyes said it all. However, it was the smaller (yet still big) specimen on the river bank that had us entranced. He sat a mere few meters away from us, his mouth open wide in an aggressive pose (they also do this to keep their brains cool).

Mr Croc, amazing to see in the wild though

The dry season is a time for cool fire burn offs and a plume of smoke is a constant sight. Perhaps this grey haze confuses the wallaby’s, as we had 4 jump out in front of us during the middle of the day. We didn’t hit any- no wallaby stew for dinner.
As we entered Kakadu, it was only fitting that a Jabiru (Australia’s only stork) was on hand to greet us. This tall, orange legged bird did seem rather out of place beside the road, but the wetlands are never far away. During our 10 months of travels to date, we have enjoyed many National Parks, each with their own delights, however Kakadu is stunning. Broken up into 7 regions, our first foray was in the East Alligator region, in the shadow of the Arnhem Land escarpment. Even though we are in the dry the floodplains are still wet in parts creating a haven for birdlife. It is rather relaxing to watch the many species forage for food amongst the waterlilies. But it is not safe to enter the water anywhere in Kakadu. The saltwater crocodiles rule the roost here. With a life span reaching into hundreds of years, these remnants from the dinosaur age become sexually active at age 30. Having been hunted to near extinction until 1971, croc numbers have recovered dramatically with many males now sexually active and consequently very aggressive. With no fear of humans many rock holes are now closed to swimming.

Rock Art, Ubirr

Ubirr, one of the main rock art sites is also in this region, within the stone country perched above the floodplains. The top end of Australia is known amongst Australian Aborigines as ‘rich man’s land’. Food and water is plentiful, with no need to hunt for up to 8 hours a day, as many others have had to do. With more spare time comes more elaborate rock art and cultural activities. Layer upon layer of rock art tell teaching stories, but we both liked the ‘menu board’ in ‘Grandma’s kitchen’ the best. X-ray art is the style of painting in this region and fine examples of several fish species, turtle, goanna and other dinner delicacies adorned the cave wall menu.

The menu board, Ubirr

But, the best of Ubirr is presented when you reach the top of Ubirr Rock. The 360 degree view over the Nabab floodplain across to Arnhem Land is stunning. Rich green lands reach out to the escarpment and are filled with life. Watching the sun go down ends a rewarding day. It is no wonder this view is used in the current NT campaign (which you have probably seen on TV).

Wish you could see all of the view with me, Ubirr Rock

However one of our best days yet was to be followed by one of our worst nights yet. Kakadu is home to over 10,000 insect species and I think a representative from each was sent to infiltrate our camper. We were camped at Merl, within Kakadu National Park, and apparently known for its bugs. We did finally manage to bug proof ourselves for the night, however the constant buzz of mosquitoes hovering outside was ever present, broken only by the howl of a dingo. Dave braved venturing outside and was stunned by the sight of mozzies covering the entire camper- spaced about 5cm apart.

Art class, Merl Campground

Still ‘Merl’ was not all bad and the following day we were treated to a traditional painting lesson with a couple of artists from Arnhem Land. The art class is not publicised as too many people have turned up in the past, so it was only the few of us who had braved the mozzie mayhem. I used a traditional brush made from a bull rush, but did not have the 20 years experience of ‘Joe’.

Joe and Leisa with paintings (Leisa needs more practice)

The caravan park in Jabiru is resort class, so we cut short our stay at Merl and I am happy again enjoying the pool and bug free nights. From here we ventured to Nanguluwur and Nourlangie- home of the best rock art in Kakadu. Contact art- when the aborigines first met white man- is present here and includes a ship and many lace gloves, worn by English ladies of the time.

Contact Art- ship- Nanguluwur

However, the days here are hot, a dry 34 degrees. The weather is very dehydrating and energy zapping. After days of exploring in this heat, we are enjoying a rare ‘rest’ day to recover and recharge to explore more of this Kakadu.
Nabulwinjbulwinj man (he committed incest) at Noourlangie