Thursday, April 8, 2010

Easy Easter

Have you ever noticed that it always rains over Easter, no matter when it falls? It is almost that over 2,000 years later, Christ is still shedding tears as he is nailed to the cross. Lucky the Easter bunny appears with a basketful of chocolate to chase thoughts of a damp holiday away......

Fortunately too for us, as the rain fell over Noosa, we were in a house. Robyn and David proved to be exceptional hosts and our Easter was relaxing.......... and full of chocolate. Between showers we even managed to scour the sights of the region not yet visited.

David, Robyn and Dave, down by the Noosa River









Dave and 'Paige' in Robyn and David's backyard


Timbeerwah Lookout rising high above sea level, gives a 360 degree view of ancient volcano plugs, rising from the lush green space below. Where once lava flowed is now a rich, fertile land that reaches towards the shores of the Sunshine Coast.

Timbeerwah Lookout, ancient volcano plug in background

Noosa River can be seen snaking its way through the environs, explaining why Noosa has so many roundabouts, as the communities mould themselves around the waters path.
Just north of Noosa, the Botanical Gardens of Cooroy showed us what plants thrive in this tropical environment. I even managed to find an Easter egg left over from the hunt, alas the ants had found it before me....... The Gardens may also have swayed me to begin a liking for the Bush Turkey. As we meandered through the grounds, so too did many young chicks. A miniature version of Mum and Dad, they didn’t look nearly as intimidating.

Heading inland ‘up the mountain’ once again to say goodbye to Dave’s cousin and family, we got our last taste of the scenic Sunshine Coast views. The Blackall Range, creating this hinterland region between the beach and the vast emptiness of Queensland’s interior, has some great waterfalls. We enjoyed the Mapleton Falls, which plunge in a sheer drop to a lost world of palms below.

Mapleton Falls, a sheer drop below




This rainforest oasis was a stark contrast to the neighbouring town of Montville, where we spent the remainder of the morning exploring the many village shops.

Having stayed for over two weeks, we made our farewells to Noosa and friends and landed in Gympie. Gympie was the ‘town that saved Queensland’, thanks to its once rich gold deposits. However, the mining stopped in the 1920’s and the town is no longer an important part of Queensland’s growth. A once prestigious main street is now full of discount stores and barbers. Even the air is filled with a foul smell, rather like burnt molasses (there is a food factory nearby). Yet, camped on the edge of the showground, with its green paddocks and stables ringed by pine trees, it was a pretty enough place.

A visit to Queensland is not complete without seeing Flo and Joh’s home town of Kingaroy. The Peanut and Baked Bean capital of Australia, Kingaroy is not just famous for the Bjelke-Petersen’s! Perhaps it is coincidence that the long-time Premier of Queensland came from this ‘South Burnett’ region, but all the towns here are ‘neat as a button’ interspersed between thriving farmlands.

Nearby Nanango was hosting its annual show, and we can say Nanango does put on ‘a good show’. About an eighth the size of the Sydney Royal Easter Show, it still provided us with a day’s entertainment. Wood chopping has always been a favourite of mine, and I must admit to watching the burly men sheer through the tough wood for over an hour. The show was full of country type characters, including the old timer with his trained dog and flock of ducks, whom raced around a makeshift track.

Racing ducks... red won

But the highlight would have to be the dancing Bobcats. Having lined up for a challenge, two of the Bobcats then proceeded to give us a warm up ‘dance’ on two wheels, twisting and turning their machines to music, before getting back in line.

Dancing Bobcat video (20 sec)

Lucky they were wearing safety shoes for the demo........ thongs.

However, our biggest giggle of the day came from the food displays. Who would have thought a packet cake could be entered in the show, displayed in full glory?

Packet cakes on display, Nanango Show


The South Burnett region has much to offer, with the Bunya Mountains another short drive from Kingaroy. Queensland’s second oldest National Park, the Bunya Mountains contain the world’s largest stand of Bunya Pine trees.

Underneath a giant Bunya Pine

Rising rigid from a bed of Bracken and Maiden Hair Ferns, the Hoop and Bunya Pines are unlike any Australian forest we have seen. The setting would not be out of place in the Canadian Rockies, although the wildlife here thankfully does not include Grizzly Bears!





Bunya Mountains, not like the Aussie bush!















Moving on to the North Burnett region, we made a pit stop in Gayndah, Queensland’s oldest country town.

The Big Orange!

Having taken photos at the Big Orange, we then learnt the reason for those ‘Gaypak’ stickers often found on mandarins- they are packed in Gayndah! Not to be outdone the next town, Mundubbera comes complete with the Big Mandarin, we really are in citrus country.






The Big Mandarin!

It was a good a day to be on the road, with the air con on. The outside temp, whilst only in the high 20’s, was exacerbated by the 300% humidity (OK, maybe I exaggerate a little). The clouds danced above us, teasing us that it was going to rain and offering cooling relief.

With the afternoon ticking by, we set up camp in Cania Gorge National Park, with its sandstone cliffs, caves and sheltered gorges. The heavens still had not opened up, but the birdlife certainly rained down on us. Within minutes of preparing a snack Dave had both King Parrots and Lorikeets landing on his head and shoulders. I was too quick to laugh though, as they soon landed on me too.

As the sun prepared to descend the rain finally came- lashings of it. We were soon ‘swimming’ around our camp, but the temperature was sheer bliss.

The Overhang, Cania Gorge

Fortunately the rain finally ceased, but the air remained cool enough to enjoy a few walks in the park. We were not that impressed with the sights on offer, but the wildlife in this park is sure worth it.

Bettong (Rat Kangaroo)

The birds, Bettongs (rat kangaroos), possums and even snakes were out in force for our visit.

Friendly locals, Cania Gorge

Thursday, April 1, 2010

Towards the sun

What is it about Sydney that makes many people want to escape? The east coast of Australia is dotted with friends and family who have made the pilgrimage, and so we found ourselves in esteemed company and travelling about 30 kilometres north a day.

Although Queensland really can be ‘beautiful one day and perfect the next’, as with any major city centre, those that relocate to seek their fortune, or escape a past pain do not always succeed. Caravan Parks in such areas, lack that certain holiday feel with many permanent residents. Everyone seems wary of each other, double checking locks and securing sites.... I don’t recommend staying in a Caravan Park on the Gold Coast, but I do recommend lunch at Nobby’s Beach Surf Club!

It was there that we met with ex Sydney friends Bern and Gary, for a lazy lunch overlooking the beach. The Surf Clubs ‘up here’ are quite flash, serving alcohol and restaurant quality fare.

Old friends, Blake, Sharee, Bob, Me and Pat

Another thirty kilometres up the road we found some more old friends, Bob and Pat and their daughter Sharee, whom I had grown up with. Away from the hustle and bustle of Sydney, they sure have found paradise in a Bali inspired house, on the sloping bank of the river. Greeting the new day with breakfast in the ‘hut’ beside the pool, accompanied by a swim...... yes please.

Known for its beaches, the Queensland Coast caters to us sun lovers. With the recent huge swells having subsided, Coolum Beach was a great interlude before reaching Noosa and more friends. I like Coolum. It is an easy place. Beach on one side and strip of shops and cafe’s on the other. However, our memory Coolum will always be Mr Frog. Having bought a lettuce from a roadside stall a week prior, we were using the last of the leaves, when he was discovered in the bag. The cold of the fridge had sent him into hibernation, but as the air warmed his body, he began to blink his eyes. He had travelled with us from the hinterland region, and we were not sure if he would survive in his new beachside address.

Mr Frog, lived in our fridge for a week

Goodbye Froggy, hello Tewantin (Noosa). Our friend Amanda was joining us for a week, so we all set up home in number 21- a Cabin in the Caravan Park. Having flown business class, and looking rather too posh for our set up (hee hee), we soon settled her in with some cask wine and Jatz crackers.

Amanda and I outside 'No 21'

Being back in Noosa was a bittersweet feeling. We were last here at the beginning of our adventure, our senses soaking up the beauty, our mind buzzing with the anticipation of the journey ahead. We are now on the last leg of our journey, a lifetime of memories behind us and a little desensitised to the beauty of ‘another’ beach.

However, with the water temp spot on and the Pandanus Palms gently swaying in the breeze, a swim at Noosa Beach eases away the worries. There are many apartment buildings lining the shore, but with a height of only 3 storeys, and large areas locked away as National Park, there is still a natural beauty to behold. Sometimes though, nature can get a little too friendly. I didn’t really like the ‘huge’ fish in the ocean brushing past, the bush turkeys wanting to inspect my towel or the cream coloured little crabs that thought my armpit was a good spot to dig a burrow.

Sunset on Noosa River, great BBQ spot

However, we all liked the lanky old Koala spotted during our headland walk. Stoned on a diet of eucalyptus leaves he made a vague effort to focus on us as his limbs stretched out, securing a more comfy position in the bow of a tree.

Koala spotted on headland walk, Noosa

The bird life is quite prolific around Noosa too. As flocks of Corella’s and Lorikeets flew in to perch in the ‘riverside tree hotel’ for the night, we were grateful they obeyed quiet time rules. The screeching and squawking finally gave way as coupled up, they nestled in for the night.

'Big' Pelican, Noosa River

The hinterland region surrounding Noosa was lush and green after many weeks of rain. The journey to Eumundi providing some of the best scenery on offer, was superseded by thoughts of what bargains were awaiting. Eumundi Markets really are the best in Australia and never disappoint.

Montville, high up in the hinterland is a quaint little town, but is big on views and gourmet delights. Dave’s cousin and family, more ex Sydney-ites, have set up home here. Nestled in a valley, green after endless rain, the view from the house is one you never tire of. Bubbling creek, rolling hills and a smattering of cows thrown in to complete the picture.

Casper, Olly, Buster the dog and I at their home, Montville

After a week of sun and giggles with Amanda, we bade her farewell. Having had her fill of beach, it was back to Melbourne. We all got to relive a beach memory from childhood- being dumped. The waves were big at Sunshine Beach, around the headland from Noosa, but we were swimming between the flags. How vivid that memory of terror as the waves pummelled, tossing us about with reckless abandon, depositing us on shore shaken, sandy and out of breath.

With the Easter Bunny soon to arrive, along with hordes of tourists, we have settled into Robyn and David’s house. Friends of Dave’s from Sydney, we had caught up with them on our previous visit. Their friendliness and hospitality made it a must to stop by again and the comfy bed may be one we never want to leave....... Noosa sure sucks you into her vortex........

Friday, March 19, 2010

Wet, Wet, Wet

Just how young Australia is, is evident in our historical sites. Sure the Trial Bay Gaol is a magnificent structure in a too die for location, but the history is short lived. Originally built in the 1870’s, the location was selected so the prisoners could build a breakwater, creating a safe harbour between Brisbane and Sydney. However, the scheme was a failure. The breakwater was constantly washed away and having spent over $130,000, only 15 metres survived. The project and gaol was no longer.

Trial Bay Gaol

Then, in WWI the gaol was used as a camp for people of German descent. Although interned, they enjoyed much freedom and were treated very well. End of Trial Bay Gaols short history. Today the gaol is a solitary, yet picturesque ruin exuding a great atmosphere of mystery.
Intermittent showers continued to fall from the silvery blobs in the sky, but we took advantage of the brief intervals to exercise our legs in the local National Parks. Stretching along the coast from Crescent Head to South West Rocks, Hat Head National Park is long and narrow, hugging the coast. Unfortunately, like so much of the NSW coast Bitou Bush has taken over.

Bitou Bush as far as the eye can see

We bush bashed our way around the headland, stopping to glimpse at views out to a distant sea. The National Park is also home to the Smoky Cape Lighthouse- the most elevated in NSW. The steep incline to the lighthouse sure was a workout..... and preparation for a much harder walk to come.

Smoky Cape Lighthouse

With uninviting ocean conditions, and therefore no frolicking in the waves, we continued north. A pit stop at Nambucca Heads to see old friends also provided us with a pod of dolphins surfing the waves! I have never seen so many dolphins together all having a grand old time.
With the rain preferring the coast, we headed inland via the Waterfall Way. One of the most scenic drives in NSW, the steep, narrow winding track (opps, I mean road) put on a spectacular show. The recent rain produced many waterfalls that you drive past on your climb higher to the heavens above. This is rainforest country, the moisture ever present in the air and a series of the greenest, rambling hills we ever did see.

Dangar Falls, Dorrigo

The morning mists that hung around till lunch coupled with a rich, fertile soil meant you could quite literally sit and watch the grass grow before your eyes. I could never live here. Sure the setting is straight from a romance novel, rolling hills, misty mornings, cosy cottages with crackling fires, but the lawn mowing was non-stop. The sound of which grates me more than fingernails slowly, screeching down a blackboard over and over.
We had not left the rain behind, but at least under the thick canopy of the rainforest we were sheltered from the drops. Through the mud we scrambled, although enjoying the vista and vividness of this World Heritage Park. After lazing about in Sydney, we were back walking for a good part of the day. Aaahhhh, nothing beats the feeling of ripping off the shoes at the end of long, hard walk. .....that was until we discovered the contingent of leeches, who had come along for the ride. Urrgghh. We looked like we had been in a fierce battle, given the amount of blood that seemed to piss out for hours afterward.
So, back it was to the coastal town of Iluka, situated on the opposite side of the Clarence River from Yamba. Iluka is home to another World Heritage Rainforest, but fortunately no leeches. Nearly losing their World Heritage status, as the dreaded Bitou Bush and other invasive weeds threatened to take over, the town banded together for a huge Landcare operation. The status and rainforest was saved for us all to enjoy.

Littoral Rainforest, Iluka

Our walking complete, we hit the road again until we landed in Kingscliff, on the NSW side of the Gold Coast. Similar to Noosa, it is a pretty spot. We set up a beachfront lodging and settled ourselves for a few days. However, Cyclone Ului launched her fury whipping up the ocean, so that the waves thundered and roared throughout the night. However, the days were now clear and bright, so with our enthusiasm for exercise we tackled the big one- Mt Warning. Being the first place in NSW to see the sun in winter, we knew she was tall. I had also done the walk before- some 30 years ago and didn’t remember it being that strenuous. My 8 year old legs were obviously in better condition than they are now, for today both Dave and I ‘recovering’ and in a little pain. The scenery on the walk is spectacular, but the walk is a challenge.

Scenery, Mt Warning 'walk'

Imagine putting your stairmaster on the steepest setting possible and pumping away at a moderate pace for just over 2 hours. Throw in some muddy sections and rocks to negotiate and you begin to get the idea. Then, when you think you have made it, keep your stairmaster on the same setting and place it up against a wall, at an angle of 120 degrees.

Nearly there... climbing Mt Warning

Grab a thick chain to hold onto, so you don’t fall down and you have finally made it..... From the top, across the mountains, you can see as far as Coolangatta, in the brief periods that the clouds allow you to do so.

Up in the clouds, atop Mt Warning

Yet, what goes up must come down.

Enjoying the walk......

Now instead of the stairmaster, imagine you do thousands of squats, as you brace your thighs down the steep, never ending incline. Our legs may disagree, but the walk was worth it and dinner never tasted soooooo good.

Thursday, March 11, 2010

Goodbye Sydney Town

The camper was packed and we are ready to leave Sydney town. After nearly 5 weeks the feeling was a little despondent. Five weeks is time enough to get back into the swing of city life, but also time enough to be itching to hit the road again.
We have left a lot more socialised, a few kilos heavier (bound to happen when you have 15 days straight of lunch and dinner out) but tired and wanting the freedom of our travelling life. However, it was truly great to catch up with so many friends and family members and meet the new additions.
Sydney, one of the best cities in the world (not that we are biased) , has one of the most picturesque harbours too. Our reason for stopping back in Sydney again, the wedding after 17 years of courtship for Kellie and Dean, was aboard a boat.

The happy couple- finally!

The lights of Sydney provided the backdrop as we cruised the harbour and soaked up the familiar sights of our home town. The images and fun time we had will certainly last us for the next leg of our journey.
Having left Sydney we stopped on the Central Coast to catch up with my brother and family. With 3 little girls the visit was fun, but full on!

Kayla, Leisa & Aneika (nieces) having a tea party in the camper

Monday morning , time for kindy and school and our goodbye. As the road headed north of Newcastle, the buildings thinned out to be replaced by scrub and open pastures. We were ‘home’ once again. The sun was shining and we soon reached one of our favourite spots- Diamond Head Camp Ground in the Crowdy Head National Park. Nestled in the shadow of the Three Brothers Mountains, metres from the ocean the campsite is always grassy, with a smattering of Paperbark trees to provide shade. Mind you, it is a wonder that so much grass abounds, as the number of kangaroos that hang out all day is amazing!

Joey, playing near our camper

I wasn’t so enthralled by the HUGE goannas, but it was entertaining to see Dave leap ten feet in the air as one tried to jump for our rubbish bag.
During WWII, the author Kylie Tennant lived in a small timber hut on Diamond Head. She was taken with the beauty as we too are. It is not just the prolific wildlife, but the sweeping beaches (with pods of dolphins!), rugged headland formations, rainforest pockets, wetlands and coastal heath that has us so entranced.

Author Kylie Tennant's hut

Edging further up the coast, it appears the ‘scenery with personality’ is not unique to the Crowdy Head area. As we passed through North Haven, Bonny Hills and Lake Cathie we were similarly impressed. But our destination was Port Macquarie, to spend a couple of nights with Helen and David. Neither of us can remember holidaying at Port Macquarie, but we were certainly impressed. The foreshore is dotted with secret bays, giving many beach options depending on the swell.

Secret bay near lighthouse, Port Macquarie

The town is in a growth phase, complete with ‘The Glasshouse’. A state of the art theatre centre, it actually sent the council broke. Administrators were called in and for a time, Port Macquarie had no representatives at any level of government. However, like the Opera House, it will no doubt be appreciated in years to come.

Getting cosy with the locals, Port Macquarie

Our host Helen volunteers at the Koala Hospital and we found ourselves joining her tour to meet some of the ‘inmates’. Barry sat on his cushioned bough, ignoring us like the grumpy old man that he is. Birthday Girl is older, but she delighted in the attention- well why not, she looks very good for her age. Kaylee was asleep, drunk on a feed of leaf, but Bea was my favourite- lapping up her special milk, she had a playful look in her eye.

Bea having a snack

The rain persisted night and day, and we were glad to be in a house. It is still raining now, but we have moved onto Trial Bay, near South West Rocks. For now we are cosy in the camper, but are looking forward to exploring the 1886 gaol and National Park areas.

Friday, January 29, 2010

Home Stretch

As the dawn appeared on Australia Day, we took the opportunity to sleep in and have a relaxing morning (very Australian). The day was hot, but the bloated white clouds above kept the suns piercing rays at bay.

Broken Hill’s Australia Day festivities began at 2pm, at the local pool. Dave and I, with the entire population of the city, settled in for an afternoon of swimming, thong tossing and sausage sizzles.

Water slide- Australia Day, Broken Hill

The Mayor announced that the huge water slide would open at 4pm. We couldn’t wait to throw our bodies down the tube which snaked its way into the pool. Alas, we forget, we are in NSW. The Nanny State. The state where OH&S has gone mad (you should see what you can legally do in the NT and WA!). It was all so strictly controlled we decided to give it as miss. Anyway, after such an exhausting day (hee hee), we needed a big rest, luckily we stopped at the big chair to do so....

Big Chair at lookout, Broken Hill

And so our sojourn in Broken Hill came to an end. Heading towards the geographic centre of NSW, the scrub became thicker, the trees a little taller. The red dirt was still ever present, as well as the heat. What was alarming though was the plethora of wild goats. The roadside was littered with herds of the beasts. Surely they are causing untold damage to this fragile land?

With many miles to go before we hit ‘home’, Cobar was to be our pit stop for the night. Memories of Cobar conjure up a drought stricken land.

Mine at Cobar- not as big as Kalgoorlie!

It has been over 25 years since either of us has set foot out here, and what we can’t get over is how green it all is. No sign of drought, just fertile lands and a green verge paving our way. We had left the outback and her silence. In these ‘green lands’ the shrill of the cicada rings in your ears from dawn until dusk.

A few hundred more kilometres down the road and we reached Dubbo, in the Bogan Shire. Welcome to the Bogan Shire the sign proclaimed. I’m sure every tourist has a giggle as they pass. A three hour walk of the town took us down the main street, with its buildings from a bygone era and numerous discount stores (how do they all survive?). The Cultural Centre was a great find, with a display of Dubbo’s history told through an exhibition of stories and memorabilia.

Aboriginal grinding grooves

The history continued 9 kilometres out of town, where ancient aboriginal grinding grooves are found etched into rocks by the bank of the Macquarie River.

Our stay was completed with a visit to the Shoyoen Japanese Gardens before journeying onto Wellington.

Welcome to Wellington - What tha?

Wellington was the site of many a family holiday in our younger (much younger) years. ‘Back in our day’ Wellington was very dry, the paddocks varying shades of brown, the result of a long harsh drought. However, situated in a valley she has reaped the benefits of life giving water seeping down the mountains. We both could not believe our eyes, having never seen her so green and vibrant. My recollections are of mouse plagues and picking out the sharp cats eye burrs from the bottom of my thongs, so it was good to see a place in better condition than our memories served us. The town streetscape is still charming, although many of the traditional shops are now replaced by KFC, McDonalds and the ever present bargain shops.

Of course, we stayed where we did all those years ago, at The Caves. I learnt Nancy, who used to check us into the park, died only two weeks ago. The Donovan’s have also left for greener pastures. Located further down the road, by the river, they ran a horse riding school and I used to help take out trail rides during the school holidays. The characters may have left, but the Caravan Park has not changed at all. The cabins are still the same ones that Mum and I struggled to ride past on our tandem bike.

Inside the Phosphate Mine

No visit to The Caves is complete without a trip underground. We opted for the Phosphate Mine, with its preserved relics of a prehistoric time.

Thylacoleo (like a Giant Wombat thing) skeleton, Wellington Caves

Bones of many mega-marsupials have been found here, hidden underground for millions of years.

We were now so close to ‘home’, but managed to squeeze in one more night away at Orange. The quality of wine from Orange has improved over the years and is now recognised as ‘some really good stuff’. We certainly enjoyed the wines we sampled and the friendly cellar door staff. Mt Canobolas rises high above the town, so high infact it is the highest point from here to the West Coast of Australia.

View from Mt Canobolas

As we soaked up the view below, we contemplated how beautiful, yet diverse this land is.
With only 200 kilometres to go, the home stretch was on, a mixture of excitement and pleasure as we drove into those familiar towns. Bathurst, home of Mt Panorama and the ‘race’. Anyone can drive around the famous track, so off we went. The speed limit is only 60. That was OK- going up the hill that is all we could manage with our ‘house’ attached. I guess the Supercars are a little more tuned for the track, but I wouldn’t have wanted to increase the speed much more. Still Conrad Straight approached and with a few sound effects, we won the race.

Looking back to Mount Panorama while going down Conrod Straight

Monday, January 25, 2010

Sounds of Silence

With the temperature in Moonta rising, the place to be was out on the jetty, letting the cool ocean air fan our bodies. To be a part of the ‘jetty scene’ we purchased a crab pot, stocked the esky and nestled down for the afternoon.


Dave and his catch

The Yorke Peninsula has a reputation for Blue Swimmer crabs and we were not disappointed, from just one pot we managed to catch 11 of legal size!

Part of our crab haul!










The sun had now set, we had drunk all our supplies, so it was home to cook us a crab feast, before we left the following morning.

The Barrier Highway led us away from the coast and further into the remote outback. As the vegetation subsided, so did the wildlife, traffic and noise. We were making our way to Broken Hill, but being some 700 kilometres away decided to stay somewhere to break the journey. There were not many options and passed through many abandoned towns, the hot dry wind having sucked any signs of life away.

The towns still in existence have changed little since their beginnings, bar decreasing in size. The homes and shops are still the originals built over a hundred years ago. The only giveaway of a modern time being the cars parked out front. This area of the outback really is an eerie place, full of ghost towns, bordered up windows and the engulfing sound of silence. The Central Outback region, with its iconic beauty, is not like out here and we began to realise why the outback can be seen as a desolate, isolated and slightly spooky place.

No sign of life for miles, then a delerict home

It was more comfortable in the car, with the air conditioning set on high, but sometimes nature calls. Stepping outside the heat made the air heavy, each breath becoming a laborious task. It was only a short walk to the ‘ablutions’, but seemed to take an eternity. The only sound to be heard was the eee- eww squeak of a whirly bird atop the toilet block. Perhaps it needed some oil, or was just working too hard but the noise, amplified in the silence, was rather eerie.

We had thought of stopping at Yunta for the night, but the patch of dirt, next to a petrol station, on the main road, that would have been home, made us press on to the next town. It was too hot to camp by the side of the road and besides, there was no shade or shelter, just a flat barren earth. We have all heard the saying ‘Big Sky Country’. It is true, the sky out here is enormous, stretching for miles and seeming to flatten the earth below.



Mundi Mundi Plains

And then we were suddenly in NSW, 50 kilometres from Broken Hill. We had been expecting a road block to take our contraband fruit and vegetables, but instead there was just a simple sign- Welcome to New South Wales. We were last in our ‘home’ state some 13 months prior. It was a strange feeling. We would soon be seeing familiar sights- NSW number plates, The Sunday Telegraph and place names familiar from childhood holidays in the ‘country’.

We had been on the road all day, and now a shower and then bed was near. Entering Broken Hill from the South Australian side the first thing you see is the cemetery. A cemetery that goes on forever, surely there are more people dead than alive in this town?

A stray I adopted in Broken Hill

Broken Hill- a place we had both visited as kids, but one that still offers many delights. No trip here is complete without popping out to Silverton. Silverton was born in 1883, but by 1899 was in decline when Broken Hill, with larger mines, was established. Although the population is less than 60, it is far from a ‘ghost town’. What is left of the ‘village’ (many buildings were transported to Broken Hill) is a major tourist attraction and movie location. Many films and commercials have been made out here, including Mad Max 2, A Town Like Alice and Priscilla Queen of the Desert.


The Interceptor from Mad Max 2

Artwork, Silverton

On our way home we detoured passed the Pro Hart Gallery. This famous artist was born and bred in Broken Hill, his quirky style just part of the Broken Hill scene.

Rolls Royce, painted by Pro Hart

Having picked up the entry key from the Visitors Centre, it was then off to the Sculpture Symposium. For six weeks from April 1, 1993 sculptors from around the world worked on a lonely hilltop, in the desert country surrounding Broken Hill. There are 12 sculptures in this isolated landscape, all carved without power tools.


Sculptures, Broken Hill desert

The National Park near Menindee, 100 odd kilometres from Broken Hill, is where Dave had camped as a child. The memories of dead Gum Trees standing tall in the Menindee Lake a happy one. The Gum Trees are still there, but water has not been sighted for a very long time. In fact, all of the lakes in the National Park were bone dry. With the South Australian water allocation running through the Menindee Lakes system, we were beginning to wonder if any would reach there. However, it is the lakes outside of the National Park that will be used. With the Darling running strong, these lakes still hold water and Dave got to see the Gum Trees still standing proud in the water.

Menindee Lakes

The National Park, called Kinchega was once part of a vast sheep station. At the end of its 99 year lease it was handed back to the Government. The homestead has been reduced to a pile of rubble, due to flood, but the Shearing Shed and Quarters are still in pretty good nick, having been maintained.

Shearing Shed, Kinchega National Park

The buildings and machinery provide an insight into our heritage, but I was amused by some of the relics from the station life. On display were gadgets from the early 70’s, when both Dave and I were born. Have we become that old, that a time from our life is on Museum display!
Homestead ruins