The power and the passion

Made it to the NT!

Neither words nor photos can truly express the awesome power of Uluru. The ‘rock’ is far bigger than expectations and seems to draw you in to her spirit. As you drive closer the rock becomes alive, her many drainage lines appearing as arms reaching out to pull you in. She devours the sky, sucking the very life out of all that is near. Once in her vortex you become mesmerized by what can only be described as her awesome presence. Since a young girl I have wanted to visit Ayres Rock (as it was called back then) and seeing her for the first time was an emotional experience. I was here seeing the famous monolith. But this was not the only emotion that she made me feel.
Uluru- photos don't capture her true power

Dave and I set off to climb Uluru. We should have known from the beginning stages that the climb would not be easy. It starts off steep, a low chain rail to hold onto and assist your way. Taking it slowly, you climb halfway up her east side. The chain rail then stops, but she flattens out a little as you traverse east to her highest point.

A quarter of the way up

However, this path has many steep downhill verticals that are complimented with equally steep uphill ‘walls’. I had made it two thirds of the way and gave up. I simply could not scale the wall in front of me. I bid farewell to Dave and said I would wait for him. I felt defeated. I had wanted to conquer her for so long and had now failed. The tears came. Tears of frustration.
I was determined to not let her win. So again I tried to scale the wall. Down I slid, I simply could not reach any hand or foot holds to hang on. I slumped down. With a few calming breaths, I remembered the skills taught to me rock climbing in the Grampians. I studied the rock wall before me and worked out a path, I felt I could achieve. On the third attempt I made it!! My joy was to be short lived as I discovered an even bigger wall in front of me further on. Again, I took time to plan a path and finally made it to the top. I had done it. I was not the only one to cry atop Uluru. Many felt a similar frustration or sheer fright- it is a long way up, and a dangerous climb in parts. However, the view is amazing. Joining Dave we both looked to Kata Tjuta (the Olgas) in the distance and a vast plain that seems to go forever. Time was spent savouring the view, before we began the descent. Not as bad as expected, but boy was I glad when finally back on terra firma.

On top of Uluru- The Olgas in the distance

After recovering and some lunch, we took a walk to a special waterhole, home of Wanampi, an ancestral aboriginal watersnake. A rock shelter along the way gave us an insight into the rock art of Uluru. The walk around her base is just shy of 10 kilometres, but being totally flat lets you both enjoy the walk and the sight before you. This walk again reminds you of the enormous size and sheer power that is Uluru.
We also took the time to explore the 36 domes of Kata Tjuta (the Olgas), a 50 kilometre drive west of Uluru. The Valley of the Winds walk, listed as challenging was nothing compared to Uluru. Although stony underfoot, we ventured through the domes, into a valley and gorge, with some spectacular sights. The wind whipped past us in parts, and no doubt how this walk got its name!

Kata Tjuta (The Olgas). Note the headwear- a must in the NT

After 3 days, it was time to bid farewell to Uluru and her changing faces. At various times of the day, shadows and light can make her look very different.

Good bye Uluru

After days of long walks, we drove the relative short distance to Curtin Springs and free camped at the Roadhouse for the night. The resident emu (tame) took a liking to our herbs, so again we had to hide them in the car for the night.

Our emu friend, Curtain Springs

We would be taking the Mereenie Loop, which eventually led us to Alice Springs. However, Kings Canyon was next on our agenda.

On top of Kings Canyon



Kings Canyon involved another long, rocky walk to fully experience the chasm. During the 3 hour walk, the sheer red rock face soars over 100 metres, hiding prehistoric plants like the giant cycads. The Garden of Eden, a permanent water oasis provides refuge to many plant and bird species not seen before. It is truly a lost world. Coupled with layered sandstone domes (very funky rocks), it really does feel like a lost city!

Kings Canyon- this spot was in Priscilla, Queen of the Desert

Our first real dingo experience was also at Kings Canyon. We think she was a little tame, but she did like to sit with us of an evening, perhaps because everyone else shooed her away. However, we were told not to leave our shoes out at night.

Our dingo friend, Kings Canyon
The Mereenie loop is 93 kilometres of dirt road. Let me correct that- 93 kilometres of corrugations, dips, bumps and dust- all of which is known as ‘the NT massage’. For this ‘pleasure’ we had to obtain a permit, as we would be travelling across aboriginal land. Not many choose to take this route, due to the condition of the road, but it really was a slice of pristine wilderness. Vivid colours of red, yellow, green and blue abound and there was plenty of animal life. A dingo led the way for a while, and then we were joined by camels and wild brumbies. These are considered pests and evidence of a recent aerial cull meant the land was littered with the carcasses of both. Not pretty to see a horse obviously shot down while in the full stride of a gallop.
The land is flat, except for the occasional gorges and meteor craters. The most impressive crater is Gosse Bluff- at 20 kilometres wide it is twice the size of Uluru. The impact was devastating and for years afterwards the weather patterns were affected. Imagine the dust!! But for anyone travelling out here- here is a tip. Don’t bother with the very rough 4WD track to view inside the crater. Instead view the entire scene from Tylers Pass Lookout; it really is a spectacular sight.

Gosse Bluff from Tylers Pass Lookout

At last, we made it to Ormiston Gorge. It had been a rough road to here, so we bunkered down for a couple of nights. We were now in the West MacDonnell National Park, and both very impressed with the scenery on offer. Images of the outback conjure sparse plant life and dust. The reality is an ecosystem that has adapted to the seasons and the land is plentiful, although harsh. Victoria was much more of a dry dustbowl, than out here!

Ormiston Gorge

We should have remembered the advice not to leave our shoes out at night. Late one night we could hear the dingoes sniffing at our door. They were happily playing with our shoes. However, in the morning we simply retrieved them from the dry creek bed, with no real damage done. They are very naughty puppies! We both love the howling sound of the dingo- a chorus set off at dusk and dawn.

Glen Helen Gorge, near Ormiston Gorge

Refreshed we continued our journey to Alice Springs, stopping to see some of the tourist sights on the way. The Ochre Pits is where the desert aboriginal people mined for this natural mineral.

Ochre Pits

Used in paintings and ceremonial body decoration, it is one of a handful of aboriginal ochre sights in Australia. Therefore this valuable possession was traded with other tribes from far away.
Ellery Creek Big hole- very pretty spot for a swim

Happy Birthday to me!

Says alot about the Outback........

I have come to realise why I love the ocean so much, it is for the same reason that I feel so happy as we travel through the outback. We are travelling along the 3000 kilometre Stuart Highway from Adelaide to Darwin, as it cuts through the Australian heart. Traversing a desert that was in prehistoric times a vast inland lake where dinosaurs roamed, the countryside is a big open space with a big, big sky. You feel a certain sense of freedom, a feeling of total contentment. For as far as the eye can see of this parched landscape is golden Spinifex tufts and mulga trees with saltbush lining the roadside. In places the road is smeared with animal blood and carcasses, no doubt victims of the huge road trains. These trucks are up to four trailers long, at 54 metres, and they don’t stop for anything.

We look so small (at left) next to the road trains

However, the rotting carcasses attract Wedge Tailed Eagles. Many times we have driven past up to 10 of these majestic birds feasting on the one kill. They seem to glare at you as you drive past, protecting their dinner.
Leaving Port Augusta, we headed for Woomera, or as I called Boys Toys Town.

Missile Park, Woomera

The site of missile launches and all things military, the town has a very cool park with many displays of missiles, satellite rockets and planes. Having heard of this town, because of its ‘detention’ past, we were both pleasantly surprised. The town is very neat, very tidy and very welcoming. Even the birds are welcoming. Picnicking in a local park (with very green grass) we met a new feathered friend. ‘Bird’ (a long billed Corella) called me a gorgeous girl and asked me back to his place, but was not happy when we wanted to leave him. I finally got to laugh at Dave, after my bush turkey incident, as I watched our upset friend chase him and try to attack his ankles.
My new friend

We did not stay at Woomera, instead we free camped at a roadhouse 7 kilometres away. Nothing else was there, but we had many fellow campers. As we lay in bed we listened to some of them solve the world’s problem. It was more entertaining than TV for the night.
Pimba Roadhouse- 'Spuds'- nothing else is here

It is a strange sensation being out in the middle of nowhere. Of all the holiday destinations- beach resorts, ancient ruins, tropical paradises, we are here in the dust (and flies). Of all the things I have lost, it is my mind I am mostly missing! But, we are genuinely happy and wouldn’t swap our adventures for a Mai Tai in Fiji (yet).

Lake Hartz- looks like snow, but is all salt! On the way to Coober Pedy

With an audio book in the CD player, we set off for Coober Pedy some 365 kilometres away, but also the next town. This is deliverance country and it has taken a few days to feel at ease. Not that we are in any danger or have reason to be, but it is so very different to anything we have experienced before. Coober Pedy has about 5000residents, but the main street is very small with minimal shops. There are really no houses to be seen and it all looks like a moonscape. That is because 85% of the town is underground. With temperatures that reach to the 50’s in summer, living underground is a very good option. All year round the temperature can be regulated to around 22 degrees inside.


Using diving rods, Coober Pedy in underground mine. I apparently had the gift and found a seam!!

As fate was to have it, it is here that I celebrated my birthday. During our last stay in Melbourne, a couple of friends had posted presents to be opened on my birthday. It was very fun to awake and open them! We spent the day exploring the town’s underground museums, opal shops and a home. Once furniture and the like is inside an underground home, it is not the easiest thing to move and remodel. The home we toured is still furnished and decorated the same as it was in the 60’s and 70’s- a real step back in time. The house however is very comfortable and even has an underground pool inside! Our last visit of the day was the underground Serbian Church, the most spectacular of the three underground churches in town.

Lounging underground, Coober Pedy

Donned in my new opal earrings, it was back to camp, where Dave served up his famous Panang Curry and we washed it down with a bottle of plonk from the Barrossa. All in all, one very enjoyable birthday!

Underground Serbian Church

Coober Pedy is full of little idiosyncrasies- like the golf course. The golf course was the concept of a lady called Faye (it was her house we visited), some 40 years or more ago. Thinking it should have a reciprocal course overseas, she got in contact with St Andrews- the home of golf- in Scotland. They obliged, but to this day, it is the only town in Australia to have reciprocal rights. So for all you golf fans, here is a little known fact. To play 9 holes on the St Andrews course is a 5 year waiting list and a cost of 600 pounds. However, if you are a member of the Coober Pedy golf club (membership fee $100) there is no wait and no fee! Worth the trip out here for golf enthusiasts!
Lake Eyre has only filled to capacity three times in the past 150 years (1974, 1984, 2004), so we embarked on a day trip to see this amazing feat of nature. The landscape on the way out was harsher, than we had encountered thus far. Nothing but dirt and stone for miles. With no plant life, there is also no animal life. At times it was hard to distinguish the road, as it all looked the same. Finally the terrain became more familiar, with a touch of green and shrubs. We soon landed at Australia’s smallest town- William Creek, located 168km’s from Coober Pedy. After a $5 coffee in the eclectic bar (worst coffee ever, but at $5 each we drank every mouthful) it was back on the road.

William Creek Hotel

Hard to imagine, but the landscape became even more inhospitable. The dirt and rock was back, but this rock was almost black in the sun. It looked like a raging bushfire had wiped out everything in its path, leaving a wasted land. But this is Australia, we just have never seen her like this before.

Australia at her inhospitable best, on the way to Lake Eyre

And then like a mirage we gazed upon a sandy bank leading to a powder blue expanse of water. The water was plentiful, but a shame to say the birdlife not. Although, it was strange to see a flock of seagulls out here! The lake is the size of Wales, the countryside we had travelled to reach her part of Anna Station. Anna Station is the world’s largest cattle station- half the size of Tasmania.

Looks like some water- that is the point! Lake Eyre is filling up.

We bid farewell to Coober Pedy and now find ourselves bedding down at Marla for the night. Again, nothing really here other than a roadhouse, but we have travelled enough for the day.
Goodbye Coober Pedy where artists create from junk....

Journey to the centre

As we slowly continue our journey towards the centre of Australia, we are encountering many towns worthy of note. We enjoyed a nights rest in Robe, on the south coast of South Australia. This seaside town is the site where many Chinese landed. The Chinese chose to land here, and then walk the many kilometres to the Victorian goldfields. They chose to embark here in order to avoid the Victorian tax imposed on arrivals. Many did not make it to the goldfields; they either perished or established a new life in South Australia. Robe still has many working buildings from its 1846 beginnings, along with the remains of the gaol.

The remains of Robe Gaol. Our home is in the background

As the sun shone brightly- yeah no more rain- we headed towards the wetlands of the Coorong. No trip to the Coorong is complete without stopping to see Larry the Lobster at Kingston. Larry was ordered from Italy in the 1970’s, and was to proudly sit atop a seafood diner. Alas, a mix up between imperial and decimal measurements meant Larry arrived a few times larger than expected! Still, he is a great tourist attraction and the Grandfather of all things ‘big’ in Australia.

Larry the Lobster, Kingston

There has been much talk about the lack of water flowing to the Coorong, with the Murray River being tapped into so readily downstream. However, the recent rain had certainly breathed life into this region. Pools of water formed in previous dry lagoons and the water birds were in abundance. The Coorong is where the movie Storm Boy (remember My Percival the pelican) was filmed. Meningie, on the shores of Lake Albert, is where we stayed for the night, and we certainly go to meet many Mr Percivals.

Botanic Gardens, Adelaide

Adelaide is the capital of South Australia, but still a quaint ‘town’. Where else could you check into a caravan park a mere 10 minutes walk to the main street of the city! The walk took you through the Botanic Gardens, which I rate as world class. We then joined a guided tour in the Art Gallery and were truly impressed with many of the acquisitions. Next stop was Rundle Mall, the heart of the city. It is good to see the sense of humour here- the resident bronze pig sculptures had had face masks put on them (in reference to swine flu).

Leisa and Horatio - sans mask

The Barossa is a must for all visitors, and with many cheap cellar door deals to be had, the camper is a bit more weighted down than when we arrived. There are many characters to be found in all wine regions and Dave and I certainly had our fair share. I had been given a cheese and wine trail gift pack for Christmas a couple of years ago. Valid at wine regions all over Australia, you pick up a cheese hamper from a selected gourmet food store and then follow the chosen winery trail. Along the way you then sample wines matched to the goodies in your hamper. The concept of this is very good, but in practice it has not turned out to be a hit with the wineries (we tend to agree). It was very disliked by our first stop, he felt a mouthful of wine does not allow you to really enjoy the delights of the hamper. Therefore, he proceeded to pour us a full glass of wine and set us up at a table in order to enjoy ourselves! He was a real character and as we sipped glasses of his wine, gratis, we all got chatting. It turned out that Dave’s 3 unit economics teacher, who moved to the Barossa, was a mate of our new found friend. He telephoned, but Bob McLean did not answer. Never fear, he never ventures far, so armed with directions to his winery, we planned a visit for the end of our day.
Throughout the day, we enjoyed many good wines and of course Maggie Beers Farm Shop. Both big fans of the Cook & the Chef (ABC Wednesday nights) we were very excited to sample the culinary magic dished up. With the produce at a very reasonable price, we stocked up, as well as enjoying a picnic meal overlooking the dam.

Maggie Beers, The Barossa

With the day drawing to a close, we set off to visit Bob McLean. The directions got us there no problem, but McLeans Winery is not signposted or really open to the public. From a torrent of barking dogs, out walked Bob. This Bob McLean had also lived in Sydney, but alas, he was not the Bob McLean that was once Dave’s high school teacher. We prepared to say our goodbyes, but he would have none of it. The door to the shed (AKA winery) was opened and it was not until nearly an hour later we parted company. Many stories and good wine flowed. He is now going to have some fun confirming that he was once an economic teacher........

Teagan and Jessie

The Barossa was not our only good company and good wine encounter. Wayne and Tracey, friends from Sydney, who have moved back to Adelaide, invited us to stay for dinner and the comforts of a house. Wayne showcased his own culinary magic and cooked us up a lasagne, while Trace opened some VERY good wine from their cellar. Five year old daughter Teagan, took much delight in taking us down to the cellar, and showing us around the house. The house is a recent purchase, and will be the family home for many years to come. Teagan, who has always wanted a dog, was now lucky enough to have her own puppy. Jessie, is just the cutest. A cross Golden Retriever and Poodle (Groodle), she has a gentle nature and I’m sure will get away with murder in the months ahead. But, as we wish to move further north, we left the 4 week old bathroom behind (so new.... so clean....). We will be back to visit them again in the spring though.

THE bank vault at Snowtown... scene of the bodies in the barrels. Enroute to Port Pirie


Our journey continued to Port Pirie, another quaint port town. Awaking to a warm day (finally out of jeans and jumpers) Dave could hear opera music. A local guy has been signing opera every morning for years at the shoreline. Channel 7 had only recently discovered him and were filming for the news that evening.
Our stays have really only been overnight, but we will be back to South Australia to discover her other quirks in the spring. Tonight we are bedding down at Port Augusta, after a day exploring Mt Remarkable National Park.

Emu at Mt Remarkable National Park, we actually had many join our walk!

As the gateway to the Outback we have stocked up on supplies, fuel, water and plastic bags. South Australia went plastic bag free as of today, and it is illegal for a shopkeeper to provide you with such. With a 5 or 10 cent refund given for bottles and cans, South Australia is a pretty green state.
Baroota Homestead ruins, Mt Remarkable National Park

Falling from the sky

Port Fairy turned out to be a one of the prettiest towns we have visited, although the heavens opened up and now a few days later still has not stopped. Being without rain for quite some time, we are not too bothered. However, we did muse how lucky we were to have travelled the Great Ocean Road and being able to enjoy all her sights in dry weather.

As we headed towards Portland, the countryside became greener. Lush fields housing contended cows brought back memories of the Victoria we both once knew. Not the brown dustbowl we had recently encountered. The weather closed in but we managed to see some of the local sights. Bridgewater, 20 minutes from Portland is home to a very appealing white sand beach. Although raining we sat in the cafe and gazed out to sea. The road continued on to Cape Duquesne where walking tracks led to a blowhole and Petrified Forest on the cliff top. An urban myth was that a big sand dune blew over the trees, which then solidified and created the Petrified Forest. They are actually a natural phenomenon, created in such limestone areas as this. However, it was an eerie scene to view such a moonscape with turbines from the wind farm in the background.
Petrified Forest and me looking like a Teletubbie..

The blowhole was not blowing, but as I stared at the vast sea before me, I watched the many white caps forming on the waves. My Granny used to tell me the white caps were actually sea horses riding the waves. To this day, I still imagine such and possibly will never see otherwise.

The back road from Bridgewater to the main road to Nelson, our home for the night, is one of the prettiest drives so far. As the sun tried to break through grey clouds, we were the only ones on the road, and putted along at an easy pace. This region is part of the Limestone Coast, and it was not uncommon to see sinkholes and limestone caves right by the roadside.

Kangaroos sheltering from the rain- we had to shoo them to get under the tree instead

We awoke to Anzac Day, and more rain, but set off for Mt Gambier in South Australia. We have both been here before as kids, but it is still a must see. What other town has a brilliant blue lake, situated in an extinct volcano crater. Or, a sunken garden, as created in the Umpherston Sinkhole (a sinkhole is formed when the top of a limestone cave falls to the floor). Infact, you can dive through various caves that run underneath the whole town.

Umpherston Sinkhole, Mt Gambier

With the rain ever present, we planned our sightseeing between showers. However, in the one day we walked to the top of the Mt Shank crater and then the Centenary Tower. Both gave amazing views, but the ol' butt muscles are feeling it now.
Centenary Tower, Mt Gambier

It was exciting to be able to buy Victoria’s Sunday Herald Sun here- turning to the travel section, who should be on page 23, but a cute guy in his swimmers (AKA Dave). A story I had submitted had been published and a big photo of Dave accompanied it.

We made it to the top of Mt Shank


Blue Lake, Mt Gambier

As we continue towards Adelaide, we have taken the coastal route, soaking up the last of our ocean views. A comfort stop at Beachport was a true unexpected surprise. There is an air of sophistication about this seaside village. From the white sand beach and pure aquamarine sea to National Trust buildings, this town would be the perfect spot for some serious relaxation. We were both also very taken with the tiny 1800’s church. It was soooo cute, with only 3 little pews, tiny piano and cosy ambiance. Leaving town we took the Bowman Scenic Drive, which gave spectacular views of the rugged coastline and the Pool of Siloam. If only it had been a tad warmer we would have floated in this pool- being seven times saltier than the sea, you could easily float and read a book!

We have found ourselves camping at Robe for the night. The sun is trying her best to break through the rain, so we have camped by the beach of Guichen Bay. Robe is another delightful sea side town, with many historic buildings for us to explore.

The green green grass of home

We were finally levered off Amanda’s very comfy lounge and the Foxtel remote prised from our hand. It took a day for us to settle back into our lifestyle, but are both sporting Cheshire grins now.
Me at the start of the Great Ocean Road (in pylon)

Heading out of Melbourne we stopped off at Torquay, to enjoy one of the best coffees to date (on par with Fioro Cafe in Sydney). Home of iconic Australian surf ware brands, we shuffled past the many outlets- no room for more clothes in this camper.
The start of the Great Ocean Road was a vision to behold. I took time to imprint the ocean scene to memory, opening and closing my eyes to ensure I had it just right. I love the ocean and know once we head ‘up the guts’ the rolling waves will be replaced with red dust . Bells Beach had just had its annual surfing contest and we stopped to watch those brave enough to enter the ‘very cold’ water. The beach is nothing to rave about, but the break off the reef is.
Bells Beach, Great Ocean Road

Home for the night was Lorne. The days are getting shorter and colder, however we can see how this spot would be popular in summer. We camped by the river, and with recent rains our door opened mere centimetres from the lapping water, and ducks.

The birds at our Lorne campsite were rather friendly- Cockie scared me a little...

An afternoon stroll along the beach led us to the pier. As Dave looked over the edge a huge Manta Ray swam by. This thing was huge- the width easily 3 metres.
The next day, our morning walk was to Erskine Falls, complete with water and many ferns. It sure was nice to see such greenery and water in drought effected Victoria.


Erskine Falls, Lorne

The coastline of the Great Ocean Road is most spectacular between Lorne and Apollo Bay and we lapped up every minute. Kennett River, about 20 kilometres from Lorne is home to the biggest koala population we have ever seen.
Cute koala, Kennett River

More than half a dozen were enjoying a nap in the warm sun (do they ever do anything else?). It was soon time for our rest too.

Real koala, Kennett River

Our home for the evening was a free camp at Aire River. The countryside reminded us of England- perhaps because it was so very green, and the river bordered by marshes. After months of dirt brown drought, it was nice to pull up and step out onto thick green grass. This area of Victoria is obviously still getting a decent rainfall.

The Aire River campsite is one of the overnight stops of the Great Ocean Walk. An 8 day trek, we are certain the Great Ocean Road has much more appeal. We walked a mere few metres of the track and boy that was enough for us. Perhaps having had our butts planted on a sofa for the past 2 weeks, we had lost some fitness. Or perhaps it was the fact that the bit we did was up a steep sand blast. However, the view to the valley below was worth it- so tranquil a setting with the river, defined by tall reeds, meandering through rolling green hills. It was tranquil from above, but as we descended and walked past the tall reeds a flock of hidden swamp birds took flight. That got the heart pumping.

It was not to be our only bird encounter for the evening. Dinner was ‘Leisa’s Special Cous Cous’. I include Chick Peas in this dish and had a giggle as I opened the tin, bought from Coles. Why did I giggle, because my Cousin Andrew has his face plastered all over it- check it out!! During dinner we were joined by a Tawny Frog Mouth Owl, settling on the ground a few metres from us. However, after dinner as Dave prepared our campfire, Mr Owl obviously took exception to Dave’s fire lighting skills and swooped past, clipping his ear! I’m glad it was him and not me!
I was excited for our next days stretch of the Great Ocean Road, which included the 12 Apostles (although there are only 8 left), Loch Ard Gorge, London Bridge, Razorback, the Blowhole and more. It was back in 1982 that I last ‘did’ the Great Ocean Road and have fond memories, especially as The Pirate Movie, starring Christopher Aitkens, was being filmed at Loch Ard Gorge, while we were there. I use to lurrrvve Christopher Aitkens, so was very excited, but no didn’t see him then. Today the formations, are still as impressive as my childhood memories. It is a powerful scene before you, watching the Apostles tempting the ocean to break their hold.
The 12 Apostles, Great Ocean Road


With these structures formed over millions of years, it made both of us feel very old to know that since out last visit London Bridge had fallen down. Back in 1990 one of the arches of London Bridge collapsed into the ocean below. A couple having an affair were stranded on the newly formed island and were rescued by helicopter, their indiscretion plastered all over the evening news.
London Bridge has fallen down, Great Ocean Road

Tonight we are settled in Port Fairy, a very pretty port town with many historic 19th century buildings. We are once again enjoying life on the road and all that it brings. I devour books as we travel. Ranging from romance and trash to thriller and insightful, I recently finished reading about the creation of the English Oxford Dictionary. This is not as boring as it sounds, but rather a tale of murder, madness and of course the English Oxford Dictionary. Enjoying a quiet relaxed moment after a days sightseeing, I educated Dave on the word Chaloner. He looked at me rather perplexed as I explained it is an obsolete name for a man who manufacturers shalloon. Still he looked perplexed until l explained shalloon is the woollen lining material for coats. Oh well, it keeps me sane and gives Dave a giggle.

We have learnt

As we are still enjoying the delights of living in a house, I began to ponder what we have learnt over our now 6&1/2 months of travel. We have really been getting on well and the enormous amount of time spent together has meant we have really got to know each other, in a relaxed atmosphere. But here is what we have learnt:
• Country town op shops have the best gear and labels. I have bought a couple of tops- both under $2.50
• Country people speak through their teeth to avoid eating flies
• Country people love a chat (I guess they have the time for such)
• Country towns still have ‘real’ antique/ bric a brac finds cheap. We have enjoyed many hours wading through eclectic collections. You could spend months scouring country towns and setting up shop in Sydney for a great profit
• Caravan Park laundry’s are a great magazine and book exchange- all free
• Buying food from road side stalls and supermarket markdowns, is a very cheap way to feed ourselves
• Halls Gap (Grampians, VIC) has the most expensive supermarket to date
• Eungella (inland from Mackay, QLD) has the best platypus sighting
• Eumundi Markets (near Noosa, QLD) are the best markets, with an amazing array of produce, arts, crafts, clothing, bric a brac and imported wares
• Favourite National Park is Mt Field (north of Hobart, TAS). Such diversity- almost 4 national parks in one with an abundance of wildlife
• It never rains in Victoria, endless sunny days
• Best coffee is still be had at Cafe Fioro, Pitt Street, Sydney
• Baby boomers own the roads Monday to Friday, 10am to 2pm. We all belong to an exclusive club as we wave to each other on the road
• We don’t like 4WD’ing unless necessary
• GPS’s have a very sensitive touch screen (we have just had to buy our second GPS)
• Everyone seems to have lived in Sydney at some stage in their lives
• Australia is HUGE
• Not all doctors whip you in and out of an appointment
Now, that last point needs some explaining........... Dave and I made an appointment with a local Doctor for check-ups, ensuring we were fit and equipped for our sojourn into the Never Never. I went in first and had the usual blood pressure etc checked. I explained that we were travelling and can sometimes lack energy. Now this doctor, just happens to be a self proclaimed leader in overcoming anxiety, which in turn leads to increased energy, anti aging, weight loss and more! He then proceeded to explain, at length, that he had discovered and researched a natural supplement that was the answer to basically a long and healthy life! I began to get a little sceptical..........
The supplement is called Inositol. It is found naturally in corn, oats, nuts, seeds, legumes, rockmelon and citrus. It can also be bought, in powder form, from selected Health Food Stores. He recommended that I eat the above mentioned foods, as well as taking a level teaspoon of the supplement a day. I would then have the following ‘miracles’ happen:
• Anti ageing- I will look younger for my years
• 3-5 kilos of weight loss
• Muscles will develop
• Any cravings for chocolate or chips will cease
• Clarity of mind
• Feeling of calmness
And some other effects I have forgotten. I oohed and aahed in all the right places, basically to end the lengthy appointment. I did giggle to myself, I could imagine the conversation that Chemical Engineer Dave and he would surely have next.
Forty minutes into Dave’s consultation the receptionist buzzed to remind the doctor that there were other patients waiting. I think Dave and Doc could have discussed Inositol all afternoon.
Inositol is not an easy supplement to find, with many Health food Stores not stocking it. Some that do only stock the Musashai brand, which is very expensive. Our ever so thoughtful doc told us where we could score. I say score as I felt he was becoming our drug dealer- he offered to help us out if we couldn’t find any.
Anyway, with all those amazing claims, Dave and I have decided to give it a ‘trial’. The Natural Health brand Inositol was only $25 for 150 grams. We should start to feel some good effects in 3 days, and amazing by day 7. I shall be sure to let you know the results of our ‘trial’.



Town Hall during the Comedy Festival- the area is alive and buzzing

We seem to be having our own comedy moments, without the many shows we are frequenting. We have now seen Judith Lucy, very funny for those of us approaching 40(however Doc says we will now never look a day over 37 with Inositol!). However, we could both relate to her ‘getting older’ challenges and health issues.
The Best of the Edinburgh, comprised 3 artists. Being a Canadian, Irishman and Englishman, I was expecting them to walk into a bar.......... (OK not a very funny joke). Australians enjoy a good laugh at themselves, and their observations of us, certainly had the audience in stitches.
The best show to date has been the English comedian, Steve Coogan. He is very famous in the UK, and I can see why. He is a very talented- singing, portraying different characters and is very funny to boot.

The boys at cousin Andrew's place

We are still here for just under a week and will be catching some more cheap comedy shows, mixed in with a smattering of social events. We have enjoyed many a dinner or drink out with friends and relatives in Melbourne. It will certainly be time to hit the road recover!

Home Sweet Home

As I type this, I am sitting in a recently renovated terrace in Carlton North. Dave and I are ‘babysitting’ two very naughty Burmese cats for a couple of weeks. We have every mod con conceivable complete with a newly renovated bathroom and kitchen, Foxtel (with EVERY channel), oven, microwave and space! We must admit that we both got a little excited to be living ‘in a real house’ for a couple of weeks, and not having a shower in thongs! The terrace is located just around the corner from Rathdowne Village and La Porchetta- the scene of the Benji killing for those Underbelly fans.
And to think it was only a few days ago that we were free camping............
We arrived in Bendigo and where presented with a town of enormous wealth- the gold here was obviously in abundance at one point. We were staying just out of town and as we drove to our diggings, we passed Victoria Hill- the historic mining site and tourist destination. Bendigo was also a victim of the recent bushfires, and we got to witness first hand the destruction. Victoria Hill was completely burnt out and therefore closed to the public. Through the chain wire fence, we could see burnt trees and a black carpet, where once there was grass. The smell of ash was still present in the air. Fire is truly an amazing beast, we continued our drive past houses untouched by her flames yet the next burnt to the ground.

Victoria Hill- bushfire victim

After an enjoyable walk through the Botanic Gardens (including Dave’s favourite fern garden), we dined out for lunch. Well, actually we stopped at the Beechworth Bakery, and since it was national pie week, we bought two pies for a total of $3.75. Dave said he may even take me out for lunch again soon......
After the excitement of our meat pies, we moved onto Maldon (another) historic gold mining town, but the best example of 19th century streetscape. An exploration of the town led us to the Mount Tarrengower heritage listed fire tower. Still in use, the tower gives 360 degree views quite literally for miles and miles. I stopped halfway up, but Dave ventured to the very top, where there was a fireman on the lookout for any signs of smoke in the distance, fortunately there wasn’t.


Vaughan Springs, double click on photo to enlarge. See the trams and teepee in the background. I don't know why either.......

Located a few kilometres from Castlemaine, Vaughan Springs, was to be our free camp base for a couple of nights, so it was off to set up home. Vaughan Springs was the hot spot for Melbournians to chill on a weekend in the 1920’s and 30’s. Whilst still a very pretty spot, she is past her prime and showing the devastating effects of drought. With signs of structured grass areas, green European trees, a flowing river and swimming pool it was easy to see what an oasis this area once was for city folk. The huge slide and 50 metre running track are still operational today. We both relived our childhood on the slide, but if anyone can explain why there is a 50 metre running track please let me know!

Dave on the 'big' slide, Vaughan Springs


However, the best feature of this place was the free hot showers- complete with a pretty pink shower curtain! This was to be the only water to be had though, with still hot days, we both were praying for some rain. Even one of the always flowing springs was bone dry. Rather disappointing seeming I had fallen over and grazed my ankle to get there!
My fall, Vaughan Springs (sympathy pic....)



The 'dry' spring, Central Spring at Vaughan Springs


With our fellow camper offering to watch over our home, we ventured into Castlemaine. Another ‘gold’ town the Visitors Centre is located in the grand old market building, still with the Goddess of Agriculture still sitting proudly on the roof. Dosing up on our fill of culture, we ambled through the Art Gallery, greatly impressed with the calibre it contained. I fell in love with a particular water colour and spent a great deal of time imprinting the image in my mind. David was taken with a number of pencil etchings- some people have a real talent.
Of course Castlemaine is most famous for its Castlemaine Rock. Debuting during the gold years, the peppermint flavoured candy is still produced by the Barnes family, now in its fifth generation. Armed with several tins, we left for home, and our last night before heading back to the big city.

Botanic Gardens, Castlemaine

Driving into Melbourne the sky was gray and lightening speared the sky. It was finally raining, but we could have done without the storm effects. Lucky we know our way around Melbourne pretty well now as Dave had programmed the GPS to give directions in German. Oh well, it sure makes travelling an educational experience. Since arriving at our ‘home’ in the city, we have had many social engagements catching up with friends and family. We will need to go on a road trip to recover.....
We have so far seen the Judith Lucy show- highly recommended- and have tickets to see Steve Coogan for Saturday night. Melbourne sure is fun!