1. The world's only evidence of a dinosaur stampede, Lark Quarry (near Winton, Queensland)
Dinosaur footprints!
Now protected by a building, over 3,300 fossilised dinosaur footprints from 95 million years ago are as identifiable as if made yesterday, at Lark Quarry near Winton in Queensland.
A large herd of small two legged dinosaurs gathered on the banks of a forest lake to drink. The herd was stalked by a large Theropod, a four tonne angry, meat eating dinosaur. The herd panicked, stampeding across the muddy flats to escape the Theropod’s hungry jaws. It is a record of these terrifying minutes that is now frozen in time. A time when the world was cooler, wetter and dinosaurs roamed the earth.
Lark Quarry- the building now protects the footprintsPrints of Mum’s, Dad’s and the kids can be made out as they ran, fearing for their life. The sight is pretty awesome and was the inspiration for the stampede scene in Jurassic Park.
2. Found only in Australia- the Black Opal, Lightening Ridge NSW
A friendly bunch of eclectic people have made the ‘Ridge’ that is Lightning Ridge, in Outback NSW home. The actual population is unknown with many living a transient life in camps on their opal leases.
Inside an opal mine, Lightning Ridge
Back then Lightning Ridge miner Amigo was struggling to find enough opal to purchase a house, so he decided to build his own. With not much money to spare he put his scrap material from mining towards building a castle. It now resembles the Roman ruins it was based upon, complete with trap doors and dungeons.
Amigo's house
Further up the road is the Astronomers Monument. A temple to Polish astronomer Nicolaus Copernicusthe, and indeed world’s astronomers, it was built by a Polish immigrant Alex Szperlak. After serving years in a Queensland prison for the crime of murder, he won the lottery and retired to the Ridge. By then he had changed his name to Robinson Crusoe, feeling he was the second such man. Filling hundreds of buckets with concrete enabled him to build this bizarre construction over a 15 year period from 1983 to 1998.
Alex's monument to the world's astronomers, Lightning Ridge
The walls of the ‘observatory’ are decorated with haunting words of injustice, for Alex did not commit the crime he was accused of. In fact, he was given a full pardon some 8 years later. Alas, Alex died when his camp burnt down in 1998.
However, opal is the main drawcard here. The famous black opal found that is found nowhere else in the world. Many have made their fortune (10 fold), but many have not. Unlucky in opal, one enterprising miner Ron Canlin, turned his mine into an underground art oasis. Over the past 12 years he has carved and painted every inch to create a visual feast, known as the Chamber of the Black Hand.
Egyptian Chamber, Chambers of the Black Hand
Donning our coloured mining hats we descended to the first level, some 11 metres underground. The carvings, which got better as his talent improved are quite remarkable. You can see in full 3D glory the Last Supper, a nine foot Archangel Gabriel, Gollum and other characters from Lord of the Rings and Australian flora and fauna. There are even Egyptian Chambers including a sarcophagus and Nephretiti. For the film lovers there is Jack Sparrow, Shrek, Puss in Boots and Donkey, Terracotta Soldiers from China and a Samurai warrior. The Jungle Room has lions, tigers, chimpanzees and elephant plus the cutest little meerkats.
Inside the Chamber of the Black Hand
Ron's is not a trained sculptor and his talent alone will mesmerise you. With a bit of creativity and courage you can make a go of anything out here.
Bordering the town on all sides are opal mines, mullock heaps and rusting equipment.
3. Red Cabbage Palms- found nowhere else in the world, Finke Gorge National Park, Northern Territory
This desert region of Australia holds many secrets and secret places. Palm Valley, in the Finke Gorge National Park, 20 kilometres from Hermannsburg is one such place. Palm Valley is a fascinating relic from literally millions of years ago, when Central Australia was covered in rainforest. With the gorge walls protecting all within from wind and the sandstone rock housing constant water, Red Cabbage Palms have survived from the dinosaur age and are found nowhere else in the world. WOW, living plants from the age of dinosaurs. The palms are thriving (however they are not red, as the name suggests) and this may be in no small part due to the 4WD track to see them being rather tricky to negotiate.
A lush oasis in the hot desert country- and Red Cabbage Palms found nowhere else in the world.
Dave and I abandoned our 4WD ute with 1 kilometre to go and walked the rest of the way into the valley. The track is actually the dry Finke River (which is the oldest river in the world), and not really a driveable road at all. If you do attempt to complete the drive, be very careful as most cars are rewarded with damage to the underside.
Finke Gorge- note the head wear needed out here, in this lost world.
I truly did expect to see a Triceratops foraging in this ‘lost world’. The high red walls of the gorge envelope majestic River Red Gums and of course the ‘Red’ Cabbage Palms and various cycads. With a fierce sun beating down on us this lush valley could easily have been mistaken for a mirage. We opted to do the 2 kilometre Arankaia walk, which traversed the valley before returning via the sandstone plateau. It was great to look down on this wonder, and contemplate just how it has survived in this hot, harsh country.
The changing colours of Finke Gorge
4. Fraser Island- the world's largest sand island, Queensland
The barge across takes only half an hour and you are soon on the world’s largest sand island. Fraser is isolated, yet full of natural wonders, famous for its dingos.
As the sun began to set, Dave nestled in a sand dune to take some photos. Dave was soon face to face with a dingo. The dog was patting distance, but once Dave stood and asserted his authority the dingo took off.
Driving along the golden beach, we spotted two turtles, entwined in an ‘intimate’ embrace. They had obviously got caught up in the heat of the moment, not realising they had been washed ashore.
'Loving' turtles
Leaving the beach, we took off for a scenic drive on one of the inland tracks. Track conjures up the image of a dirt road, perhaps narrow in places, perhaps with a few holes. Let me tell you the inland ‘tracks’ are serious 4WD territory.
Pristine beauty- the interior lakes of Fraser Island
Time for us to relax and we set up on the shores of Lake Boomanjin. Laying on my towel, we soon sank into the soft sand, fine as talcum powder and as pure white as the first snow. The water was crystal clear and soon washed away any stress from the diabolical 4WD tracks. Magical. Pure nature in her unspoilt glory.
The interior of Fraser is forest, albeit with a sandy base
As the days passed on the island, our 4WD and beach driving skills gained in confidence. We were soon trekking further up the beach, racing the tides to see sights such as the Maheno shipwreck and Eli Creek- were we floated along the creek all the way out to sea.
Swimming Eli Creek, which takes you right out to sea
Maheno shipwreck, Fraser Island (below)
But nothing can prepare you for a hidden washout on the beach, as we discovered too late. We became airborne, if for only a brief second and braced for the landing. However, it was nothing compared to the bounce of some of the inland tracks and we were certainly up for it again.
5. The World's flatest piece of limestone- the Nullarbor Plain
Crossing the Nullarbor is the most tedious, unrelenting drive in Australia. However, the enjoyment is retrospective at having 'done the Nullarbor.
There is really not much to see across the Nullarbor, so we made the most of all opportunities, like stopping to see a piece of Skylab at Balladonia. Back in 1979 Balladonia (which consists of a Roadhouse only) made world headlines when space debris from Skylab landed here. The then President of the US of A Jimmy Carter, even phoned to apologise.
The Nullarbor Plain
Back in the car we looked forward to our next stop to see the Caiguna Blowhole. The ‘Blowhole’ is a natural breathing hole for one of the limestone caves that lies beneath the Nullarbor Plain. Actually, the entire plain is made of limestone- the world’s flattest piece, covering about 200,000 square kilometres. It is so dry out here that no cliffs or valleys have been weathered like elsewhere, imagine how different the Nullarbor could be!
Caiguna Blowhole
Caiguna also signified the start of Australia’s longest straight road, all 146.6 kilometres without the hint of a bend, or any real change in scenery.
Madura marks midway between Perth and Adelaide and at the top of the Madura Pass we finally got a glimpse of the Southern Ocean from a lookout, far off in the distance over the Roe Plains. Camp for the night was again in the bush.
It is always interesting venturing off into the bush, with so many relics of past times and lives. We came across many abandoned old cars, hoping their owners fared a little better.
Even the buildings out here do not survive- the Eucla Telegraph Station which opened in 1877, is now being engulfed by sand dunes, soon to disappear forever. Sand is rising up the walls of each room, nearly touching the roof in parts.
Eucla Telegraph Station
But, we had reached the Southern Ocean and the Great Australian Bight. The sheer drop of the towering cliffs was a WOW moment. We were standing on the edge of Australia, some 90 metres above the pounding Southern Ocean below. The landscape was severe and so was the weather with strong winds wrapping us in a cold blanket.
The Great Australian Bight
With such a harsh environment no one lives out here, so although we had crossed the border into South Australia, it was another 460 kilometres before we reached the town of Ceduna.
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