Saturday, November 28, 2009

Zelks does Perth

As our Sydney friends left, the heavens opened reflecting our dampened mood. For four days the wind, rain and grey skies dominated. We needed some salvation, and so we found ourselves driving 132 kilometres north of Perth to Australia’s only monastic town. Established in 1846 by Spanish Benedictine monks as an aboriginal mission, New Norcia- as the town is known, lies in the midst of the Australian bush.

Church, New Norcia

Elaborate Spanish style churches, chapels, monasteries, guesthouses and even a hotel fit for the Queen, house hidden beauty and magnificent artworks. Over time the monks began to live in harmony with the local aboriginals and therefore the mission turned into a boarding school, until closing in the early 1990’s. Since then hospitality (they don’t like to call it tourism) has been the main focus of New Norcia.

Looking up to ceiling in girls school chapel- angels faces are of the favoured students.

The monks welcome you to pray with them in their private chapel, and you can stay in the guesthouse, or hotel to share in the rhythms and routines of their lives. I truly recommend it if you want to refresh the soul!

Inside the boys school chapel

We certainly felt refreshed after our guided tour of the town. Even the sun was out again- just in time for the arrival of our next Sydney friend- Zelks.
In the throes of growing a moustache for Movember, Zelks arrived looking like a 1970’s porn star. Therefore, there was no question- we were taking him to the tavern across the road. All week we had been seeing signs advertising a pole dancer from 5pm. In the middle of suburbia, we just had to check it out..... and take our very own porn star with us. It was 5pm, and yes, there really was a pole dancer. We soon learnt it was a local bikie hang, however they were not allowed to wear their ‘colours’ inside. It was all rather amusing, but oh so wrong......
Needing to finding our path back on the straight and narrow (hee hee), we set off for a morning bushwalk in the Lesmurdie Falls and John Forrest National Parks.

Dave and Zelks, John Forrest National Park

The latter is Western Australia’s oldest national park. In years gone by a train brought picnickers from afar, however the rail line is now a walking track, complete with an old railway tunnel that carves its way through the limestone mountain. It was nice to be out in the sunshine overlooking the Swan Coastal plains, with Perth in the distance (and boy does she look tiny).

Inside the old railway tunnel- using a lighter to see!


However Zelks must think we have an obsession with taverns for in the middle of the John Forrest National Park is just such a place! Just goes to show how the purpose of a national park has changed over the years.
Even Yanchep National Park, which we visited the following day had a tavern! Mind you this national park also has a koala colony imported from Victoria, manicured lawns, Tudor Style buildings and a motel!

Koala, Yanchep National Park

Having been to many ‘modern’ style national parks in our travels it was rather interesting to see some ‘old’ style ones. The main attraction of Yanchep National Park is the limestone caves. We did not opt to do a tour, having seen many, many, many caves before.

Zelks, Yanchep National Park

With taverns off the agenda, it was on to a couple of the Swan Valley’s premier wineries. Houghton’s, an old favourite, was first on the list. It was busy, but as with all wineries we have visited in WA, very friendly. We are still in awe of the size of the tastes- nearly half a glass! Stocked up, we headed for Sandleford, where we also departed with a few new favourites.

Famous Cottesloe Beach, perfect after a day bushwalking

With Zelks’ new appreciation for the botanical Kings Park proved a hit, showcasing plant specimens from every inch of WA. You don’t need to be interested in plants to soak up the beauty of this park, though with its sweeping vistas and majestic monuments. Later it was his turn to introduce me to a new experience- the Casino.
A maxi taxi arrived to pick us and our neighbours, Lauren and Brendan, up for an evening at the Burswood Casino. Having no idea how to play any games, I thought I would be bored after 5 minutes. However, after a drink getting to know our new friends, I soon found myself being the spinner at a game Two Up! Of course I had to bet too and was soon down to my last $15. It was to learn the rules of Blackjack. The game if pretty easy (as most of you probably know) and I was soon making hand signals like an old pro. My first cards dealt were a ‘perfect pair’ and earnt a pretty penny. Word must have spread about my ‘beginners luck’ as I soon had a groupie following, including some Asian’s betting hundreds on my game. I did squirm a little when I lost, and saw their piles of chips raked away. By the end of the night my $15 had turned into a couple of hundred, with Dave and Zelks having similar luck. In front we knew it was time to leave, but all had a great night out!

Fremantle Prison

However, to ensure our gambling does not turn to a life of crime, we took ourselves to the Fremantle Prison. Built in the 1850’s, this maximum security gaol did not close until 1991.

Inside the main cell block, the net stopped boys falling to their death

During this time the only real improvements were electricity and increasing the size of the cells. This means buckets were still used for toilet purposes until 1991! A tour allowed us to view life as it was for convicts and prisoners in the main cell blocks and solitary confinement. Used as a place of incarceration and punishment for almost 140 years, there are many cruel and uncomfortable stories. The whipping post is a grim reminder, however the gallows were the most eerie. Entering the purpose built building, the air felt different, making us gasp in order to fill our lungs. Perhaps we were feeling the fear of many men who took their own last gasps here. The hangman’s noose gently swayed above an open pit, as our guide explained the gruesome process.

The gallows....

I could feel my throat tighten, the air trying to force its way in. We can only imagine how the condemned would have felt.
As the prison neared the end of its life, talented inmates were given permission to paint their cells. Many masterpieces remain on the walls, which is more than we can say for the Perth Art Gallery! A woeful mish mash of ‘art’ left us rather disappointed.

Artwork in prison cell

As Zelks’ last day arrived we once again headed over to Rottnest Island. This time we took the mega blast- a jet boat. The boys loved the ride over. Not sure why. The water seemed to turn to concrete every time the boat slammed down from the crest of a wave. My stomach had that washing machine sensation, as it too rode the waves.

Aboard the Mega-blast

OK- I admit, it was a little fun. We spent the day exploring and swimming. A volunteer guide also led us the local Quokka hang and we got to play with more of these cute little critters.

Quokka cuteness

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