Parallel, By Leisa Chell- now available!

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Parallel by Leisa Chell is now available! 

What is it all about-

Ever wanted to get off the work treadmill?

Ever wanted to just run away?

At the age of 37, Leisa, with her partner David decided to do just that. They left the rat race of Sydney and went walkabout, in a four-wheel-drive ute and slide-on-camper. Having packed up their Sydney rental home, for the next two years they experienced not just the natural beauty of Australia, but also what life means to them. Parallel, details some of those learnings, against a backdrop of the wonders of this sunburnt country.

Walkabout is about searching for the other half of yourself. When you lose connection with yourself, you go walkabout. You leave the physical world behind and when you are one again, you can continue the journey of life. 

Is this the meaning of life? To simply exist and see what path you choose to take. During the two years of travel, Leisa pondered this eternal question. The answer brought an inner confidence, allowing her to begin to live her dreams.

She had been the advertising and communications manager of a travel company but relished swapping suits for shorts and T-shirts. Pit toilets and relying on solar power took some getting used to though! After a two-year odyssey Leisa and David returned to once again live in Sydney.

Over 170 pages, the book includes 16 pages of full colour photographs (by David Stubbin). RRP $25.00. Postage $5.00

Printed in Australia, Parallel is available direct from the ‘first time’ author, Leisa Chell. Payment can be made by cheque or bank deposit. Email leisachell@hotmail.com for details.

Top 5- 'Only in Australia'

Australia has many unique sights and sounds, so here are our Top 5 delights that can only be found in Australia.

1. The world's only evidence of a dinosaur stampede, Lark Quarry (near Winton, Queensland)



Dinosaur footprints!

Now protected by a building, over 3,300 fossilised dinosaur footprints from 95 million years ago are as identifiable as if made yesterday, at Lark Quarry near Winton in Queensland.

A large herd of small two legged dinosaurs gathered on the banks of a forest lake to drink. The herd was stalked by a large Theropod, a four tonne angry, meat eating dinosaur. The herd panicked, stampeding across the muddy flats to escape the Theropod’s hungry jaws. It is a record of these terrifying minutes that is now frozen in time. A time when the world was cooler, wetter and dinosaurs roamed the earth. Lark Quarry- the building now protects the footprints

Prints of Mum’s, Dad’s and the kids can be made out as they ran, fearing for their life. The sight is pretty awesome and was the inspiration for the stampede scene in Jurassic Park.

2. Found only in Australia- the Black Opal, Lightening Ridge NSW
A friendly bunch of eclectic people have made the ‘Ridge’ that is Lightning Ridge, in Outback NSW home. The actual population is unknown with many living a transient life in camps on their opal leases.

Inside an opal mine, Lightning Ridge

Back then Lightning Ridge miner Amigo was struggling to find enough opal to purchase a house, so he decided to build his own. With not much money to spare he put his scrap material from mining towards building a castle. It now resembles the Roman ruins it was based upon, complete with trap doors and dungeons.

Amigo's house

Further up the road is the Astronomers Monument. A temple to Polish astronomer Nicolaus Copernicusthe, and indeed world’s astronomers, it was built by a Polish immigrant Alex Szperlak. After serving years in a Queensland prison for the crime of murder, he won the lottery and retired to the Ridge. By then he had changed his name to Robinson Crusoe, feeling he was the second such man. Filling hundreds of buckets with concrete enabled him to build this bizarre construction over a 15 year period from 1983 to 1998.











Alex's monument to the world's astronomers, Lightning Ridge

The walls of the ‘observatory’ are decorated with haunting words of injustice, for Alex did not commit the crime he was accused of. In fact, he was given a full pardon some 8 years later. Alas, Alex died when his camp burnt down in 1998.
However, opal is the main drawcard here. The famous black opal found that is found nowhere else in the world. Many have made their fortune (10 fold), but many have not. Unlucky in opal, one enterprising miner Ron Canlin, turned his mine into an underground art oasis. Over the past 12 years he has carved and painted every inch to create a visual feast, known as the Chamber of the Black Hand.

Egyptian Chamber, Chambers of the Black Hand

Donning our coloured mining hats we descended to the first level, some 11 metres underground. The carvings, which got better as his talent improved are quite remarkable. You can see in full 3D glory the Last Supper, a nine foot Archangel Gabriel, Gollum and other characters from Lord of the Rings and Australian flora and fauna. There are even Egyptian Chambers including a sarcophagus and Nephretiti. For the film lovers there is Jack Sparrow, Shrek, Puss in Boots and Donkey, Terracotta Soldiers from China and a Samurai warrior. The Jungle Room has lions, tigers, chimpanzees and elephant plus the cutest little meerkats.




Inside the Chamber of the Black Hand

Ron's is not a trained sculptor and his talent alone will mesmerise you. With a bit of creativity and courage you can make a go of anything out here.



Bordering the town on all sides are opal mines, mullock heaps and rusting equipment.




3. Red Cabbage Palms- found nowhere else in the world, Finke Gorge National Park, Northern Territory
This desert region of Australia holds many secrets and secret places. Palm Valley, in the Finke Gorge National Park, 20 kilometres from Hermannsburg is one such place. Palm Valley is a fascinating relic from literally millions of years ago, when Central Australia was covered in rainforest. With the gorge walls protecting all within from wind and the sandstone rock housing constant water, Red Cabbage Palms have survived from the dinosaur age and are found nowhere else in the world. WOW, living plants from the age of dinosaurs. The palms are thriving (however they are not red, as the name suggests) and this may be in no small part due to the 4WD track to see them being rather tricky to negotiate.

A lush oasis in the hot desert country- and Red Cabbage Palms found nowhere else in the world.

Dave and I abandoned our 4WD ute with 1 kilometre to go and walked the rest of the way into the valley. The track is actually the dry Finke River (which is the oldest river in the world), and not really a driveable road at all. If you do attempt to complete the drive, be very careful as most cars are rewarded with damage to the underside.

Finke Gorge- note the head wear needed out here, in this lost world.

I truly did expect to see a Triceratops foraging in this ‘lost world’. The high red walls of the gorge envelope majestic River Red Gums and of course the ‘Red’ Cabbage Palms and various cycads. With a fierce sun beating down on us this lush valley could easily have been mistaken for a mirage. We opted to do the 2 kilometre Arankaia walk, which traversed the valley before returning via the sandstone plateau. It was great to look down on this wonder, and contemplate just how it has survived in this hot, harsh country.

The changing colours of Finke Gorge








4. Fraser Island- the world's largest sand island, Queensland


The barge across takes only half an hour and you are soon on the world’s largest sand island. Fraser is isolated, yet full of natural wonders, famous for its dingos.

As the sun began to set, Dave nestled in a sand dune to take some photos. Dave was soon face to face with a dingo. The dog was patting distance, but once Dave stood and asserted his authority the dingo took off.

Driving along the golden beach, we spotted two turtles, entwined in an ‘intimate’ embrace. They had obviously got caught up in the heat of the moment, not realising they had been washed ashore.

'Loving' turtles

Leaving the beach, we took off for a scenic drive on one of the inland tracks. Track conjures up the image of a dirt road, perhaps narrow in places, perhaps with a few holes. Let me tell you the inland ‘tracks’ are serious 4WD territory.

Pristine beauty- the interior lakes of Fraser Island

Time for us to relax and we set up on the shores of Lake Boomanjin. Laying on my towel, we soon sank into the soft sand, fine as talcum powder and as pure white as the first snow. The water was crystal clear and soon washed away any stress from the diabolical 4WD tracks. Magical. Pure nature in her unspoilt glory.

The interior of Fraser is forest, albeit with a sandy base

As the days passed on the island, our 4WD and beach driving skills gained in confidence. We were soon trekking further up the beach, racing the tides to see sights such as the Maheno shipwreck and Eli Creek- were we floated along the creek all the way out to sea.





Swimming Eli Creek, which takes you right out to sea

Maheno shipwreck, Fraser Island (below)



But nothing can prepare you for a hidden washout on the beach, as we discovered too late. We became airborne, if for only a brief second and braced for the landing. However, it was nothing compared to the bounce of some of the inland tracks and we were certainly up for it again.

5. The World's flatest piece of limestone- the Nullarbor Plain
Crossing the Nullarbor is the most tedious, unrelenting drive in Australia. However, the enjoyment is retrospective at having 'done the Nullarbor.

There is really not much to see across the Nullarbor, so we made the most of all opportunities, like stopping to see a piece of Skylab at Balladonia. Back in 1979 Balladonia (which consists of a Roadhouse only) made world headlines when space debris from Skylab landed here. The then President of the US of A Jimmy Carter, even phoned to apologise.

The Nullarbor Plain

Back in the car we looked forward to our next stop to see the Caiguna Blowhole. The ‘Blowhole’ is a natural breathing hole for one of the limestone caves that lies beneath the Nullarbor Plain. Actually, the entire plain is made of limestone- the world’s flattest piece, covering about 200,000 square kilometres. It is so dry out here that no cliffs or valleys have been weathered like elsewhere, imagine how different the Nullarbor could be!

Caiguna Blowhole

Caiguna also signified the start of Australia’s longest straight road, all 146.6 kilometres without the hint of a bend, or any real change in scenery.


Madura marks midway between Perth and Adelaide and at the top of the Madura Pass we finally got a glimpse of the Southern Ocean from a lookout, far off in the distance over the Roe Plains. Camp for the night was again in the bush.


It is always interesting venturing off into the bush, with so many relics of past times and lives. We came across many abandoned old cars, hoping their owners fared a little better.

Even the buildings out here do not survive- the Eucla Telegraph Station which opened in 1877, is now being engulfed by sand dunes, soon to disappear forever. Sand is rising up the walls of each room, nearly touching the roof in parts.

Eucla Telegraph Station

But, we had reached the Southern Ocean and the Great Australian Bight. The sheer drop of the towering cliffs was a WOW moment. We were standing on the edge of Australia, some 90 metres above the pounding Southern Ocean below. The landscape was severe and so was the weather with strong winds wrapping us in a cold blanket.

The Great Australian Bight









With such a harsh environment no one lives out here, so although we had crossed the border into South Australia, it was another 460 kilometres before we reached the town of Ceduna.

Some of the great 'views' of Australia

We have been asked by many people what our favourite spot in Australia was. There is not 'one' favourite, as many places hold many cherished memories for us. However, here are 5 of our favourite views:

Stay tuned for our next Top 5!

Number 1.
Uluru- Northern Territory


Neither words nor photos can truly express the awesome power of Uluru. The ‘rock’ is far bigger than expectations and seems to draw you in to her spirit. As you drive closer the rock becomes alive, her many drainage lines appearing as arms reaching out to pull you in. She devours the sky, sucking the very life out of all that is near. Once in her vortex you become mesmerized by what can only be described as her awesome presence. It is a view that you will never forget and one you will want to revisit.


Number 2.
Kakadu- Ubirr Rock- Northern Territory

The best of Ubirr is presented when you reach the top of Ubirr Rock. The 360 degree view over the Nabab floodplain across to Arnhem Land is stunning. Rich green lands reach out to the escarpment and are filled with life. Watching the sun go down ends a rewarding day. It is no wonder this view was used in the Northern Territory advertising campaign.

Number 3.
The Bungle Bungles- Western Australia
These rock formations rise majestically from the Spinifex covered sand and are really a sight to behold. They are actually very tall, dwarfing us as we weaved our way to Cathedral Gorge. Another amphitheatre, this gorge is almost 360 degrees of vertical sandstone walls, and one of the many sights to see at the Purnululu National Park.

Number 4.
Albany- Western Australia>

Albany is actually the town where the first dawn service was held in 1918, now a tradition of every ANZAC day. Mt Clarence, rising majestically above the town, was where the people of Albany gathered in 1914 to watch the convoy of ships destined for Egypt. The soldiers were then trained there before landing at Gallipoli. Now it hosts a monument to those who will never return to the harbour and a poignant spot, reflecting the ANZAC spirit.

Albany and her surrounds are full of natural beauty, including Little Beach. One of the prettiest beaches in Australia.

Number 5.
Duckhole Lake- Tasmania

A top 5 views of Australia would not be complete without an entry from Tasmania. The entire state is picturesque, however here is a little treasure for you.

Tasmania has a long history of logging. Forests dominate most of the island and there is much debate on whether to save these old hardwood forests, with some of Australia’s tallest trees.


Driving through Forestry land, we arrived at the Duckhole Lake Walk, just south of Dover. This area is a prime example of Tasmanian Forestry working in harmony, with the environment. Back in the 1920’s to 40’s this area was logged. Today there is no logging near ‘historical’ logging sites or natural creeks, to maintain both beauty and water quality. An easy hours walk to Duckhole Lake, the fern lined path is flat and wanders through new growth trees, covered in moss and lichen.

Goodbye

Far in the distance, rising out of the flat plain land, Mt Kaputar was a splendid sight. The rise and fall of the mountain range bought us a sense of familiarity, a welcoming sight. The National Park, of which Mt Kaputar calls home, covers a vast area. In the far north of the park is Sawn Rocks. Ancient lava crystals having cooled at the same time have formed ‘organ pipe’ like structures. Looking somewhat man-made (they aren’t), the ones here are the best example in the world.

Sawn Rocks, Mt Kaputar NP, near Narrabri

Long walks up and down the mountain range inhabit the south of the park. Fortunately I had my driver (Dave) to drive us to the tip of the highest mountain. The road was steep and windy, the landscape changing from shrubs to Snow Gums. The thin air was chilly at the top, and we really expected it to snow at any moment. But the view was worth it- 360 degrees far into the distance. Infact, we could see right out to the Warrumbungles, some 94 miles away.

On top of the world... well Mt Kaputar walk, it's cold up here!







Aaaah, the Warrumbungles, so close to home (Sydney), but one of our all time favourites. The sight of primeval volcanic craters and plugs has a rather sophisticated elegance. The vision is grand and unspoilt, unlike flat Australia which has mostly been turned into grazing land. Iconic Australian’s must also agree this is a top spot because our camp was surrounded by kangaroos, emus and a koala perched in a tree!











Our neighbour, Warrumbungles

Knowing we would soon be back in city life, we decided to ‘do the big one’- the Grand High Tops walk. Much of the path is now paved, but oh so steep and with over 1,000 steps to the heady heights, it is still a challenge. However, the reward was something we could have soaked up all day. Looking down on the famous ‘Breadknife’ and across sweeping valleys we picnicked savouring the view as much as our food.

Lunch with a view, looking down on the Breadknife

Camped by a babbling brook, we spent our last evening here enjoying a tipple and reflecting on the last 23 months. Our ‘holiday’ was ending on a high note, even the kangaroos putting on a show for us. Tipping out of Mum’s warm pouch was the youngest joey we have ever seen. With only a whisper of fur, the fragile infant looked so vulnerable as Mum struggled to get him back home (were is the camera when you need it!).



The memories will last...

The rain came out, the kangaroos persisted in staying out and soon our house with a view was in a white out. As the mist enveloped the ranges, it was time to leave. Mudgee was to be our last stop- we needed some gifts and Mudgee Wineries were getting our cash. The rain continued, so our sojourn was short, but Mudgee is somewhere we would like to come back too........ along with other favourites from our 700 days ‘on the wallaby’.

Green Fields

Before our eyes the trees appeared taller, more dense and the cows were no longer the drought resistant Brahman. Our approach into Charleville brought more familiar surroundings and cattle. We were still in the outback, but with recent plentiful rains, the grounds were rich in feed. However, that didn’t stop the horses eating everything in sight in the Station cum Caravan Park where we resided. Goodbye herbs.....


Horses in the Caravan Park, Charleville

Charleville proved a great spot to spend a while. On the main route north and west, it has capitalised on a captive tourist market. The ‘Cosmos Centre’ was all things astronomy, but actually very engaging.

Holding a meteorite at the Cosmos Centre, Charleville

It was here I discovered that in about 50 year’s time, I shall move to Mars. You see on Mars, I am currently only 22 years old and weigh a mere 20 kilos. KFC and chocolate would be a necessity.....

The most bizarre feature of Charleville was the ‘Rain Making Guns’. 1902 saw Queensland in the grip of drought, so it was decided to trial these guns that had been developed to break up hail over the vineyards of Italy. The vertical guns were placed strategically around Charleville, their barrels pointing up to the sky. Charged with gun powder, it was hoped the explosion would change atmospheric pressure and produce rain. Alas they didn’t work, however the drought soon broke...... so maybe they did......


Rain making guns, Charleville







The cutest feature of Charleville would have to be the Bilby’s. This endangered native rabbit like bandicoot is bred here and part of a release program. They are very cute and have very big ears and a black and tail!







Yes, we did also see real ones......

I shan’t bore you will all the sights and scenes we saw, but Charleville is a great little outback town! I can’t say the same for Cunnamulla though, but it did provide a respite for the night. I don’t think we will ever get used to country towns. The clock strikes Midday on Saturday and all the shops shut until Monday morning. Walking down the main street has a ghost town feel and there is no bread or milk to be had.

On the road again, the inevitable happened. We crossed the border. We were now in NSW, our home state.

Homeward bound....

We are excited to be heading home after nearly two years on the road, but our hearts flutter with a touch of sadness that our gypsy life will soon be no longer. It was Sunday when we crept into Bourke, so of course the town was shut up tight. Although an inviting town, the shutters bordering up the shop windows until opening time, never let us forget the riots that have taken place here.



Main street, Bourke. The shutters are down when the shops are closed.

Remote, yet familiar Bourke has attracted those escaping the big city lights, the most well known being Fred Hollows. Many local aboriginals can now see because of Fred and it was his wish to be buried on the claypans were he camped. Infact, he is buried in the cemetery, a huge slab of granite marking his resting place. Walking to his shrine the soft earth had us sinking into the ground. I had visions of falling down into an ancient grave, but we managed to negotiate our way, allowing the pioneers of the past to rest in peace.


Fred Hollows grave and memorial, Bourke










The Darling River once a maritime thoroughfare, allowed Bourke to prosper. The banks are lined with all manner of memorials, including the Historic Crossley Engine. Although not a machine buff, the hypnotic sound of the engine and the many parts moving in time to the rhythmic beat had me in a trance. The engine was originally used to generate electricity for Sydney (1923 to 1938), but ended its working days as a water pump.

The Crossley Engine, Bourke

Gundabooka National Park, 50 kilometres south of Bourke had us donning our walking gear. Rain has really brought the outback to life. The park was green (even the rocks had moss on them), and the animals were prolific. Although, I don’t think the pussy cats were supposed to be here...... With a strong aboriginal heritage we walked to the rock art site. The artwork here was some of the best examples we have come across.


Rock Art, Gundabooka National Park










Cotton is one of the main industries of this region and with freshly ploughed fields, the emus made the most of it. Never before have we seen emus in such large numbers. An estimate of two hundred of these prehistoric birds lined the roadside, oblivious to the passing traffic.


Hello ladies....

We were headed towards Lightening Ridge, stopping off in Walgett for some lunch. This is a sad town, its doors barricaded against attack. An aboriginal history of forced removal from their land meant life was hard after the ‘invasion’. It was not until the early 1960’s that aboriginals were allowed to enter town. With such a recent volatile arrangement it is no wonder the wounds linger.

Yet, Lightening Ridge is a stark contrast. A friendly bunch of eclectic people have made the ‘Ridge’ home. The actual population is unknown with many living a transient life in camps on their leases. I was last here in 1981. Nothing much has changed except for the expansion of eccentric sights. Amigo had just started building his ‘castle’ back then, but now it resembles the Roman ruins it was based upon, complete with trap doors and dungeons!

Amigo's Castle, Lightning Ridge







Further up the road is the Astronomers Monument. A temple to the world’s astronomers (it also looks like a castle), it was built by a Polish man named Alex. It is all rather bizarre, but given that Alex was wrongfully imprisoned for murder, before a full pardon 8 years later, it begins to make sense.

Astronomers Monument (very kooky inside..)

As you most probably know, opal is the drawcard here. The famous black opal found nowhere else in the world. Many have made their fortune (10 fold), but many have not. Unlucky in opal, one enterprising miner turned his mine into an underground art oasis. Over the past 12 years he has carved and painted every inch to create a visual feast. With a bit of creativity you can make a go of anything out here.......

Once a mine, now an art oasis...

Bordering the town on all sides are mines, mullock heaps and rusting equipment. The entire place looks like a movie set and we were fortunate to get an insight into life out here. A lifelong friend of my brothers having escaped Sydney, invited us out to his camp. Negotiating old shafts we found our way to ‘Bedrock’. There is no town power or water out here, but with a bit of ingenuity (and a generator) life is not all that uncomfortable.

Friends at their mining camp, Lightning Ridge

We learnt the town secrets, but secrets they shall remain.